24p vs 24Pf

[Jeffrey Fuchs]

I had one of my videographers shoot a wedding in 24pf with his main camera and 24p with his other 2 cameras. What do you guy suggest I do? What are my options? I edit in Premier CS6.

So, the way I see it I can do the following.

- Edit all the footage in a 60i timeline
- Edit all the footage in a 24P timeline (it does not look that good on my screen in Premiere)
- Convert the 24pf footage in After Effects to 24P? (How do I so this) And edit all the footage in a 24P timeline in Premiere


Thanks for your help!

[Matt Davis]

Then something is wrong, either with your HDMI connection, your media, or you haven't updated the firmware of your Blade.

Latest software (especially after 2:2 pulldown debacle), media is on list of known-good SSDs (SanDisk Extreme 3), HDMI is Apple HDMI cable, known good. 10 sec lock-up on PF24, 2 min lock-up on P24 - I can only report my experiences. The same lock-up times for PF25, PF24 and PF30, takes ages with P24. If you achieve better, you are truly blessed.

I will say this, though: HDMI relies too much on voodou and luck (that strange handshake between devices). HD-SDI just fricken' works. I've never, ever (EVER) had to unplug both ends of a connection and swap them with HD-SDI. It's funny how this is the first line of problem solving with HDMI.

There's a flag inside the Canon HDMI and AVCHD stream that says 'I am progressive'. All I'll say is that they sure ain't got that right with AVCHD, and my experience is that they sure ain't got that reliable in a short space of time with HDMI. There's something about the Canon progressive Mojo that's never been quite right.

[Gary Huff]

Originally Posted by Matt Davis

I've never, ever (EVER) had to unplug both ends of a connection and swap them with HD-SDI.

I have never done this with HDMI, outside of a 15' cable that had to be plugged in a certain way (a speciic connector had to be plugged into the device that was sending the signal).

Since everything you have told me seems correct, I would replace the Apple cable. I have one, barely use it. I have had great success with the Monoprice thin HDMI 3' cable, and with PerfectPath cables, though the heads on the connectors are rather large, which is why I prefer the Monprice.

I have shot hours without losing connection or cadence.

It may also be possible that you have a defective Blade. Had to send mine in to get replaced once the touchscreen stopped working after the unit had been in operation for an hour or so. It would still record just fine, so I thankfully didn't lose anything, but I couldn't do anything else with it.

[Rainer Listing]

Originally Posted by Jeffrey Fuchs

- Edit all the footage in a 24P timeline (it does not look that good on my screen in Premiere)

Leaving aside that it's now almost never a good idea to shoot 24fps anything, can you be more specific about "it does not look that good"? In my experience with Premiere, which admittedly wasn't the latest version, it seemed to handle 24pf pretty well (Vegas not so much, but perhaps I was just lucky) and you could just put it all onto a 24p timeline. If you're getting cadence errors with the 24pf, it can be a nightmare to sort out, and the errors probably won't be in every clip. The easiest is to drop half the fields from each clip, but it's obviously not the best since you halve the resolution.

[Gary Huff]

Premiere does not remove 3:2 pulldown, so if you shoot PF24 and deinterlace it's going to halve the resolution of the video.

[Joshua Guerci]

Originally Posted by Gary Huff

There are too many C100 videos that look like crap because they were shot 24PF and improperly handled in post.

Just don't do it.

Lets say you did do it by accident... how do you fix it? :(

[Gary Huff]

Originally Posted by Joshua Guerci

Lets say you did do it by accident... how do you fix it? :(

You import in After Effects, Interpret Footage->Main, and click on Guess 3:2 Pulldown under Fields and Pulldown. Then export it into your format of choice. You'll have to do this with each individual clip.