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Update.
5 Votes: Helios 44m 58mm f/2 4 Votes: MIR 24m 35mm f/2 3 Vote: Olympus OM (50mm f/1.4) 2 Votes: Nikon MF lenses 2 Vote: Takumar SMC 50mm f/1.4 1 Vote: Helios 40-2 f/1.5 1 Vote: Ziess Planar T 1 Vote: Leica-R series lenses 1 Vote: Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 1 Vote: Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 1 Vote: Nikkor 180mm f/2.8 1 Vote: Vivitar 35-105 f/3.5 or f/2.8 1 Vote: Volna-3 80mm f/2.8 1 Vote: Mamiya Sekor 55mm 1.4 1 Vote: Rikenon 55mm 1.4 For those of you asking about wider vintage lenses.. I haven't come across anything yet but I am not going to rule it out. For a range of atleast 16mm you will need a 10mm. I think that the Tokina 11-16mm is going to be the way to go for the T2i users. Couple the top vintage lenses with 1 $600 lens and you'll have about $900-$1000 in lenses alone. Couple that with the price of the T2i, you'll have around $1,800 in bassic equipment. For some of you who are just getting into videography, you chose the T2i simply because it was cheap and it had superb ability. If Canon never came out with the T2i (or other DSLRs), your "cheap" rout for this kind of quality would be waaaaaay above the $2,000 mark. Remember, the XH-A1 started at $4,000 and even then you didn't have good shallow depth of field nor the ability to switch lenses. |
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what the serial # on the vivitar ? mine starts with 37, so its made by tokina. it does seem that they made at least 2 versions of this lens.
also to note, there are 6 versions of their series 1 70-210 zoom, ver 3 seems to be the best optically. however it is a single touch lens :( all the rage back then, not at all these days. |
My Vivitar also starts with "37", a Tokina build. The "macro" ring and colours look different from yours, and also the aperture goes in the opposite direction (assuming you didn't flip the pic).
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Practically is a number that you have to multiply with your lens's focal length in order to understand how your camera sees the image compared with a full frame camera. So, if you have the 7d or 550d or 60d (they all have a crop factor x1.6) and you use a mir-24m which has a focal length of 35mm your camera will crop the image as if your lens was a 56mm (35mm x 1.6 = 56mm). The good thing about vintage lenses (besides the lens personality) is that they were made for full frame cameras and they work in both crop and ff bodies! That's the basic idea about crop factor I hope I helped you. |
Ok, video FINALLY up :) Vivtar 35-105 3.5 lens test. I've actually shot a cash paying job since then and I've been happy with it.
Vivitar 35-105 3.5 Lens Test, FINALLY ! |
That looks great Steve. Thanks for posting!
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I just got finished shooting a bit with my Nikkor 28mm. I've done this in the past, only this time I knew what I was doing a bit better. Before I had the ISO set on AUTO and adjusted accordingly with the apeture ring everything looked all grainy and the whites were all a bit blown out.. Gotta learn somehow..
Video test up soon! |
Here is a quickly assembled collection of "yard clips" from my SMC Takumar lenses (50mm f1.8, 35mm f2.0, 28mm f3.5). These are wonderful lenses that have unbelievable feel and build quality. The focus rings are works of art and the optics are good as well. At some point I want to test these versus some of my modern lenses on the 7D/t2i to see if they impact alaising at all. Love the look and the CA and sharpness appear quite good to me for any lens (note the shot directly into the sun and on the branches suspended in the sky).
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Cool! Thanx for the vid!
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George,
Sorry I failed to pull out the SMC 135mm f3.5 in the comparison. Oh well! |
102 year old lens on a DSLR
If you want vintage, then you've got to check this out ... here's a dude using 35mm Wollensak Cine-Velostigmat F5 ... the kind of lens used on hand-cranked silent movies.
http://timurcivan.blogspot.com/2010/...thing-new.html Not exactly the '70s vintage lenses you were looking for ... but super-cool ... |
Robert,
Yep, that would be vintage. I think it's funny how so many of us are chasing technical purity, pixel peeping, obsessing on data rates.... and then others make interesting pieces by using very imperfect lenses to great effect. Something to be learned here! Thanks for sharing. |
Hey Robert,
you're the president of Juicedlink right? Glad to have you on the forum. Just showed someone how to use the use the CX231 coupled with the DN101 last night on my T2i. Great product. I also used it throughout my shoot in Brazil. Thanks for posting! |
Vintage Lenses Clip
Here is a clip that features primarily vintage lenses. The exception is the extreme wide angle shots when we used the Tokina 11-16.
Vintage lenses used Helios 44 Mir 24 Zeiss 85mm 1.4 |
How is the Mir 24 doing in Low light ?
It seams like a perfect wide angle choice. |
The Mir 24 is an f/2.0 so it's pretty decent in low light. Not as good as f/1.4 or 1.8, but still really nice.
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One thing gets me down tho.
550d and 7d has the 1.6 crop factor. So, we, owners, have hard time getting good wide angle look to our footage. For example the Mir 24 will work as a 55mm lens. We need to get supper wide angle lens in order to get An average Full frame camera Wide angle look. And the supper wide angle lens don't come with a cheep price tag as far as i know . |
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ohoo, works for zooms as benefit. :)
But that Tokina 11-16 is 600$. Not exactly cheep. Have not seen any cheep and good vintage lens from the super wide angle section. 35mm and 50mm end has their choices such as Mir 24 and Pentax smc 50mm 1.4 . (Can vouch for this one, its amazing.) Am i wrong? Is there choices from supper wide angle lens similar to Roger's mentioned Tokina 11-16 for a price of 100-200 $? |
Wide angle lenses are expensive to start with anyway. Tokina 11-16 is a good deal because even as an 11mm F2.8 prime its pretty cheap, compared to FF primes like 14mm F2.8 which costs three time as much as Tokina.
People complain about crop sensor doesn't go wide, but if you look around you usually find crop sensor equalevant at a much cheaper price than full frame version and you can match the range too. The altra wide lenses, without going fisheye, are invariably for crop sensors only (ie, the very sharp Sigma 8mm-16mm), and they are reasonably priced compared to FF lenses. So in the end, smaller sensors mean smaller budget for everything--body and lenses, without sacrisficing much reach. |
Gustavs,
You could look for a deal on something like this: SMC Takumar 15mm F3.5 Lens Reviews - Pentax Lens Review Database Problem is, these lenses vary in price quite a bit. Somebody that wants to sell it and doesn't know what it is may sell if for $50, somebody who does $1,200. Happy hunting! |
Ty Roger, seams like a good choice. But its for the future. Cant go over 200$ for the moment.
Il get the Mir 24. But i dont understand one thing. Between Mir 24M and Mir 24N the only difference is in mounts? The N is Nikon mount and the M is m42 mount. Both can be easily fitted to 550d? Im planing to get Mir 24N simply cause its cheeper. I see majority using Mir 24m. This one (Plz dont Bid :) ) |
Hi Gustavs
That Mir 24 looks like a pretty good one. He notes that it has small bubbles/scratches. I would clarify with the seller on what his return policy is. The first Mir 24 I bought from Kiev was in pretty good shape. The second and third Mir24 I bought had major scratches on the front lens element, even thought the sellers listed them as excellent condition. The Ebay sellers allowed me to return them. The fourth Mir 24 I bought was in excellent shape for real. Good luck with the auction. As far as an affordable super wide less than $200. I have the Zenitar 16mm 2.8. They are made in Russia and you can still find them brand new around the $200 range. I have seen them with Nikon, Pentax K and M42 mounts. Maybe you can even find a good used one since they are made so close to where you are located...well I realize Russia is a big country, but at least you are closer to Russia than I am. ;-) Here is a clip that primarily has footage from the Zenitar. |
The wind shield is the front glass of the lens ? Or the Lens cap?
Hmm, interesting that Zenitar :) And cheep as well. But i think it is not a wherry good performer in low light situations. And i am buying the wide angle for a good performance in Night . The kit lens 30-55 that i have are not usable in low light, tho offers a ,some what, Wide angle. Edit:The video of yours is actually rly nice and is quite low lit . But i have heard to much of a good reviews about the Mir 24 to stop now . :) Il get it for now . But i hope minor scratches on the front glass wont influence the outcome of a video. I think it should not be visible at all unless some had used a Nail and carved something in it . |
I am unfamiliar with calling anything on the lens a windshield. I thought it may be a language translation thing. When I read windshield I thought of the front of the lens and not the lens cap. Clarification is alwasy good, especially before you purchase.
Most vintage lenses will have some degree of minor scratches. Its the deep, wide and long scratches that you need to be cautious of. With the Zenitar at f/2.8, it will give better performance than the kit lens, which is f/3.5 when zoomed back wide, but is it worth it to you to buy a lens that is just a little faster and a little wider than the kit lens? I don't know, but it is about $400 cheaper than the Tokina 11-16. |
Yes, i sent the seller a question regarding those scratches . Hope he gives me a clarifying answer instead of " Lens is in great condition" reply . Usually i get those
Talking about "but is it worth it to you to buy a lens that is just a little faster and a little wider than the kit lens? I don't know" I sure hope you mean the Zenitar versus the Canon kit lens. Cause i do expect a major improvement in low light situations from the Mir 24 Lens. I got the Pentax smc 50mm 1.4 .And i do hope the Mir 24 is quite similar in low light performance. I think the 0.6 aperture difference is not that big between those 2. Or am i to optimistic? |
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Yes, I was comparing the Zenitar to the Canon kit lens. You will see a big improvement with the Mir24 over the kit lens in low light, as well as other areas. The low light abilities of the Mir24 will fall between your Pentax 1.4 and the Canon kit lens at the wide setting. I could be wrong, but I understand that a 1.8 lens lets in half as much light as a 1.4 lens, so going from 1.4 to 2.0 is not just .6 aperture difference. f/2.0 will get good results in low light. f/1.4 practically makes light, so it really depends on how dark the scene is. I have tried shooting low light receptions with an f/2.8 and it did not do well. Using an f/2.0 made a big improvement, but again, it depends on how dark the scene is. |
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I spent a little time today comparing my SMC Takumar 50mm f1.4 to some modern lenses; specifically Canon 50mm f1.8 and Tamron 17-50mm f2.8, all three set to f2.8. The following shots were taken at dusk within minutes of each other:
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Here are a few more controlled shots of same lenses indoors in controlled lighting, all taken at f2.8 again. The cropped shots are near the center of the page. It's interesting that that the Tamron 17-50 at "50" is noticeably wider than the other lenses.
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Perhaps the biggest difference in sharpness is in the corners of the lenses; all at f2.8. The top left corner showed the greatest difference on these samples. This isn't exactly fair to the Tamron, which I like very much and is on my camera 90% of the time. It's at a disadvantage being a zoom lens at it's widest aperture and at its extreme focal length whereas the others are primes and stepped down a few stops. I find myself often struggling for light, so f2.8 was the lowest common f-stop.
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Has anyone tested the nikkor 24m f2?
I just ordered one from ebay for 340$ (incl. shipping) for my 60d... |
George, i'm sure the 24mm f2 will do great. Post a video if you have a chance!
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Hi,
The nikkor 24mm f2 is here and it is in excellent condition!! But still waiting for the adapter! The Zenitar K2.8/16 is here also and it works gr8!!! |
Lucky you.
Im still waiting for my Mir 24, and i ordered it in October the 8th. The shipping estimate for that seller is 15-25 days. But the worst part is, that before 5 days or so, the user i bought it from is no longer a Registered User of Ebay. Its weird, cause his Feedback of 800+ seemed Legit. Asked him about this issue, and he sad that Ebay closed his acc for some unpaid services to Ebay. Don't know what to think,but i am worried. Adapter and the caps all arrived. p.s Maybe some1 knows a good place where i can get Mir 24 Lens which ships internationaly. |
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Hey everyone, if you are in search for adapters but don't know which one to get, I suggest looking at KAWA MALL on ebay. I bought a Nikon to eos and just recently an M42 to eos and both came in the mail supprisingly fast. The Nikon to eos adapter works great. I'm able to detach it from the lens with no problem. The M42 I haven't gotten a chance to test yet. Still wating on my Heilos 44m. Which I bought for a whopping $37.
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Since the first time I wrote on this thread I bought:
Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 & Canon 18-55mm kit (not vintage but importand lenses) Helios 44m Nikon 24mm f2 non ai Zenitar 16mm f2.8 fisheye (can't get it to focus to infinity but working on it) Pentacon 135mm f2.8 "Bokeh monster" (this one has not arrived yet but it has 15 blades aperture and I really want to see what it can do) I'm gonna need an olympus 50mm f1.4 and I'm ready to shoot! But NO adaptor have arrived yet so Helios, Nikon and Pentacon have no way to go on my camera yet :-( I will post videos and my top 4 when I can (that is soon). |
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Nothing like that springs to mind :/ Those that i knew are all gone . However the guy from ebay gave me a Tracking number. I traced trough track-trace and some info about the purchase did show up. How ever i could not make extract any info from that about when my Lens will be here. Maybe i can track my purchase trough other sites which may give me more detailed info? Its EMS . |
It might just be your country's border/custom services. I had a package from the Far East held up at customs for almost 3 weeks, it was just released yesterday.. I usually get my items in 10 days or less.
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