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I just ordered the LCD hood. Great idea, and thanks.
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Homemade Hoodlupe
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I build a perfect hoodloup from Hoddmanloup and LCD Screen Hood Pop-Up Shade from
My camera is like any other Videocamera with perfect focuscontrol. No rubberband who make the Hoodluop difficult to stay in place. |
Tommy,
Did you use velcro or some other temporary method to attach the Hoodloupe to the visor, or did you use glue or some permanent method? Thanks! |
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As an added benefit you can also add the Sony PD-170 eyepiece and it makes the
hood loop that much better... The part number is 3-087-515-01 It is also the one used on the Sony DCR-VX2100 camera very flexable rubber and covers the entire eye area when in use... |
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This is v1 of my hotshoe adapter for Hoodloop.
It is very stable. It comes off and on fast. The plate that attaches to hotshoe also holds a chordless mike or light or whatever. When I have time I will refine it but for now it works great. |
Olof, that looks a vast improvement on the $20 rubber band.
What is the rubber eye-cup? |
The rubber eye cup is from an Pana AG-EZ1u that I have kicking around. It still works but I don't use it any more. And it is a perfect fit.
The eye cup really helps, Hoodman really should supply a better one. |
Jon where did you order the Hoodman rubber band mount? I don't see it listed on B&H.
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For those that do not have the hoodman loop or the " rubber band" from hoodman here
is some info that might save you some money if you are interested in the hoodman loop. The hoodman loop is a nice addition to the camera... The loop when you purchase it alone does not come with any way to attach it to the camera. The " rubber band " that is offered by hoodman is actually a large " O-ring " not a rubber band and as such is not cheap... The issue when you connect the hoodman loop with the rubber band method is that the camera to the loop interface is very slick, enough so that the rubber band does hold the loop to the camera but the loop will slide around on the display and imediately you will want to find a better solution to keep it from creaping on the display... If you still want to go the rubberband method, then I'd suggest you go to walmart and get two of those small black bungi cords that the girls use to tie their hair back... they work just as well as the O-ring and they are much cheaper... If you want to fix the loop so there isn't any sliding you will need to either get the display frame and modify it by taking the flaps off.. this takes all of one minute and then either glue or tape the loop to the display frame... the frame attaches to the camera body via the eyepiece... it works great and it easy to use and easy to modify. The end of the loop is a semi hard rubber... it is not a eyepiece like on any video camera... to make this work you will need to get a eyecup that just slips over the hoodloop end... There are many to choose from that will work... I use the eyecup from the Sony PD-170 it covers the eye well, no light leaks and it is very soft rubber and helps with not bruising your eye when shooting all day.... it also has the ability to fold back towards the loop for storage... |
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A word on i-cuff size is in order. The old joke is that in the army there are two sizes of uniform. They are either too big & too small. It's like that with the i-cuff. There are actually three sizes i-cuff DV (Fits circumferences <5.5"), the i-cuff PRO (Fits circumference up to 9 1/2") & teh icuff HD (Fits circumference up to 10 1/2"). Knowing that the circumference of the Hoodloupe is 6" & that Wayne Avanson has the smallest version & it is a tight fit that required extra Velcro I opted for the middle size. This was a mistake as it is too loose & the elasticated cuff doesn't grip hard enough so I will have to take out my scissors, needle & cotton & perform some surgery. However it should then fit perfectly |
This is from Bruce Dorn's website, this is good if your not using the battery grip, but the way he mounts it I think is sturdier.
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