New XL1S has problems stablizing and focusing

[Chris Simmons]

Hi, first time here and love the forum.

I have a new XL1s...a sturdy tripod and fluid head. However, when panning/tilting using the tripod, the lens (I assume) takes several seconds (up to 9 sec sometimes) to stablize and settle. For example, I can pan slowly to the left and stop...but the image doesn't stop moving. It looks as if the stablization is trying to make up its mind for a few seconds as it moves around trying to find a settling spot. This doesn't happen when I turn off lens stablization.

Another problem that really bothers me is the focus while slow zooming. I read a few articles on the focusing complaints but I think my problem hasn't been discussed in the articles I have read. Here goes:
when I use the slow zoom feature, the lens loses focus and tries to regain it but cannot until I stop zooming in. The lens and uv filter are clean and free of dirt and smudges.

[Rob Lohman]

The first problem you are describing comes from the simple fact
that you are trying to stabilize something that is already stable!!
Why are you doing that? Turn off the stabalizer when on a
tripod doing pans (which are the most obvious as well). A low
shutter speed (below 1/50 or 1/60 ?) might also cause such
effects I think.

Now about the second problem. I've also had this and it just
looks like the camera doesn't know where to focus anymore
(things go too fast). This mainly seem to happen in lower shutter
speeds (like 1/25th or 1/30th) which produces a more blurry
image when moving/zooming. I usually switch to manual
focussing in those shots and everything is fine. Just turn of
auto focus, zoom in to how far you want, focus (and/or hit
Push AF) and then zoom back out. Begin your recording and
slowly zoom in. No problems.

[Jeff Donald]

Try removing the filter and see if that makes any difference. Not all filters are created equal. The AF works by contrast. If the scene is low contrast or lacks distinct vertical lines the AF can hunt for something to focus on. This can be overcome by use of additional lights, reframing the scene to allow for vertical lines or switching to manual focus (a challenge in itself). The XL1 manual suggests turning off the IS when the camera is mounted on a tripod, as Rob stated.

Jeff

[Chris Simmons]

Thank you for the great help.....
I feel dumb about the stablization stuff.... :)

Jeff, I did remove the filter and have the same problem. The scene is highly contrasted and lighting is good. About the vertical lines, are you saying that I can only get good AF while slow zooming on vertcal lines? Let's say I have a person in focus standing a good distance behind a vertical line (ie, a building). If I slow zoom in on the person, will the camera try to focus on the vertical line even if it is to the extreme left or right from the center of the frame? Or will the vertical line help the AF to keep the focus on the person in the middle of the frame and who is already in focus?

Thanks again for the help.

[Chris Hurd]

One limitation of any servo-controlled zoom lens with rear focus groups (common to most all DV camcorders, not just the XL1) is that zoom and focus will not work at the same time. If the lens is set to auto focus, the focus will hunt during the zoom and won't settle until you stop zooming. The way to get around this is to set the focus to manual, zoom in and focus on the most distant element in the shot to establish critical focus. Then zoom back out. Focus is preserved and you can pull your slow zoom without having the focus change. You must always have auto focus turned off if you expect to do slow zooms, just as you must always turn image stabilization off when the camera is mounted on a tripod. Otherwise the image stabilization fights the pan, resulting in undesirable image shake. Hope this helps,

[B. Moore]

Chrissimmons,

try this:
1.) autofocus off
2.) stabilizer off
3.) set camera to M
4.) most important: set-up of zoom shot as follows.

subject-----------> S


let's say distance between S & X = 20ft.



YOU----------------> X

1.) zoom from X (you) all the way to s (subject)
2.) focus on S (subject)
3.) zoom out to desired framing
4.) now when you zoom in, all will be in focus ( unless you are wide open,
I.E f/1.8) try to stick to f/5.6 unless you desire an almost zero D of F ( f/1.8)
5.) Now if you remain at X and subject remains at S , you can zoom in or out and
not loose focus. ( if S or X moves foreward or backward, you will loose focus and have to repeat steps 1 to 4.)

Try it you'll like it!

Bruce

[Chris Simmons]

Thanks alot for the help.

I tried to do manual focus throughout the entire event...but the viewfinder sucks big time! My results were soft throughout the 2 hours of footage.....this is bad! Looks like I need a small CHEAP monitor...any suggestions?

I will use the method you guys described.

[B. Moore]

Is cheap under $500 but above $400 or over $500 but under $1000?

Bruce

[Chris Simmons]

I was looking more of under 400...but what are your experiences and what do you suggest?

[Chris Hurd]

See my article, "Top Five XL1 Accessories," in the articles section of the XL1 Watchdog at www.dvinfo.net/xl1.htm

An adequate inexpensive LCD monitor for focusing and framing is the VariZoom VZ-TFT listed on that page... also the NebTek monitor listed there as well. Hope this helps,

[Chris Simmons]

Thanks Chris....I am on it.

[John Klein]

If you're by AC power, I'd suggest a small tv with composite inputs. Better than anything else, and way cheaper.

[Josh Bass]

A small TV is a good idea, but beware, it won't show the underscanned portion of the frame (unless I'm totally wrong and it will). The LCD monitors do show the whole frame.

[Edward Troxel]

We use a small battery powered B&W TV. The advantages of this is:

1) Price (cost about $40)
2) Does NOT show the overscan - I know that what I am shooting will show correctly on the TV's of my customers!
3) Image is sharper than I've seen on LCD's.

[Chris Simmons]

<<<-- Originally posted by EdwardTr : We use a small battery powered B&W TV. The advantages of this is:

1) Price (cost about $40)
2) Does NOT show the overscan - I know that what I am shooting will show correctly on the TV's of my customers!
3) Image is sharper than I've seen on LCD's. -->>>

#3 was what I was looking for lately. Thanks. If I can get as clearer a picture from a $50 tv than a $300 monitor, then I an happy...but carrying it around is a definite disadvantage.

What is your setup?