Mike do you anticipate a relatively short turnaround on the revised beta firmware rolling in a fix for the under/overcrank issue?

-Andrew

Hi Andrew-
We have discovered the problem and have a fix underway. I would expect a fix by Tuesday or Wednesday of next week.

Best-

Hey Guys,

Just a quick update. I've been out testing for a good part of the day...I've shot approx 84 GBs and no problems with firmware so far. I've been shooting 1080 60i at 180mbps Long Gop and 220 I-Frame in timelapse mode (triggered with remote switch). All looks good on my end. (btw, nice fix on remote tally light!)

I'll head out again this evening and send an update if I run into any surprises.

-Eric

Hi Eric-
Thanks for the feedback. The over/under-crank issue has been solved. We should post a new beta early next week. We're still looking for the cause of the power-down no-source problem. So, please turn off the power-save options (under the System menu).

Best-

Hello Dan and Mike,
The new firmware is causing a problem with very server with drop frames when the SDI output is used to feed the Tricaster. I think we have a timing issue rolling back to 1.5.126 the drop frame issue has disappeared.

Hi Lance-
How often does this occur? What's the video format (1080i50, etc). We can test on our HDCAM deck tomorrow.

Best-

Hi Mike,
The video format is 1080i/50, I am not sure at this stage if the dropped frames problem only applies to Tricaster XCD300 when feed via the NanoFlash SDI out or if it happens with other equipment.

Hi Lance-
We checked equipment in our lab and have not been able to duplicate the problem. We will continue to test, but for now, I would recommend staying with the older firmware.

Best-

Hi Mike,

How long do you think will it take to restore the nanoFlash Power Save capability that the 1.6.29 has disabled? With the hardware on/off switch unfunctional, it's now a bit of a problem having to disconnect the power cord each time one stops recording for longer then 1-2 mins. My D-tap connection is already so worked out from those frequent plugging in/out that I'm starting to get intermittent power losses!

Thanks,

Piotr

Hi Piotr-
We don't have a date for this fix. We are still tracking down the root cause. We found that under some circumstances the nanoFlash will fail to lock to the incoming source (on power-up), which would result in a lost shot.

The nanoFlash draws about 5 Watts during idle mode. So do you really need to shut down the power if you are only going to stop recording for 1-2 minutes? You might do some calculations on actual battery life.

We'll keep trying to find a solution.

Best-

Yeah, OK - I should have said 10-20 mins breaks, which may add to considerable periods of eating the battery in vain...

Piotr, you may wish to get into the splayed flanges on the connecting posts of your D-Tap/P-Tap connectors with a really small "jewelry" sized screwdriver and spread the flanges a bit wider. If you look carefully the posts are really very small "banana" connectors and will get flattened over time. This should fix your problem. Failing that you can buy replacement P-Tap connectors from B&H or an equivalent pro video outlet in Europe but you have to get in there with a soldering iron. I keep a few replacements on hand should one fail. Unfortunately, like anything Anton Bauer related they are not reasonably priced.

Can you not unplug the nano end of the power cable?this is what I do..as the D tap is very stiff and hard to get to .. IDX V plate HDX900.. or is this not a good idea?.. agreed I like to use that power save function

Thanks Andrew and Robin, all good advice.

My problem is also that I'm using a special cable Olof made for me, which powers all 3: the camera, nanoFlash, and the LED light from a single D-tap socket of my Switronix 96 batteries. So I cannot replace it that easily (will need to make another one soon).

And the nanoFlash end (the Hi-rose connection) has always been very loose (at least it's a locking type)....

Piotr,

If the AB D-tap on the cable is wearing out, it is very easy to simply replace the male D-tap connector. It is a simple soldering job. Pretty much any electronic shop should be able to do the job.

I am surprised the D-tap is wearing out. I have some cables that are 20 years old with AB D-tap end, that must have gone through thousands of connect cycles.

It may be the Swit Battery end that is wearing out. This would be harder to fix. I would be interested in what end is wearing.

On my own power cables for the NF I have made a small slide switch that works very well, I use it all the time.