Dolly Question

Jim Parks · March 19th, 2005, 02:08 PM

You're welcome, Dan!

I know the drill press isn't necessary, but, for me, it would make it much easier to do these projects.

I purchased a 5 speed drill press for $50, and a vise for the drill press on sale for only $5.99 at Harbor Freight. It's a fun store to visit; good prices, too.

Jim

Reid Bailey · April 4th, 2005, 10:38 AM

Hi all,
It's been ages since I've posted here and this place continues to be a great source of info.

A word of caution on the carts with the nu-matic wheels. The work well on even surfaces only. We used on last summer on an interior shot in an old pub with an old brick floor. It was useless. Really check out your floor and look for bumps, ridges etc.

The cart that Dan posted looks fine. Do NOT get the version that is at Lowes (I think). It has a wire mesh deck as opposed to solid wood. And it's a pretty flimsy deck at that. It wobbled like crazy.
Apart from the above the cart is not a bad way to go though.

Dan, have you had any luck figuring how to link mulitple lengths of conduit? I've got a 75% solution and I hope to be testing it completely this weekend. But let me know if you've got something better.

I've given up on the pvc, not stable enough and it can't be raised off the ground.

Dan, when is your next book coming out?

Dan Selakovich · April 5th, 2005, 07:55 AM

Hi Ried,

Back in the old days when I was a gaffer/grip, we layed down sheets of plywood on uneven surfaces for the tires to run on. Still true today. Some part of filmmaking never change!

As for PVC, you can attach it to 3/4" strips of plywood about 4" wide. You can raise it off the ground if you have enough support along the track. As for attaching PVC, use 1/2" (diameter) plumbing pipe nibbles. These are about an inch long and have threads their entire length. Take a pair of pliers and screw them in on PVC--as the nipple goes in, it will make its own threads in the pvc. Leave the nipple half way out and screw in the other PVC length. This will make a very tight seal, and the dolly wheels will not bump at all across the section. After a lot of use, the nipple may become loose. Just trim off an inch of the PVC and start again.

This is the simplest solution for track. I've also used aluminum tubing with solid aluminum pegs, using JB weld to hold the pegs in one side of the tubing. Attaching them together is a little to involved to go into on this forum, but truth be told, I use the pvc because its faster, easier, cheaper, and readily available!

I'm hoping Volume 2 will be ready by the Christmas rush!

Dan
www.DVcameraRigs.com

Reid Bailey · April 5th, 2005, 10:51 AM

hmmm, okay, I'll try using the plywood stirps for support.

I've used the nipples in the past and they work fine.

Is there a trick to mounting the pvc to the plywood. Do you top drill a hole and then screw through the bottom of the track? Or do you just go up through the plywood?

Dan Selakovich · April 6th, 2005, 07:50 AM

Hi Reid,

Get a bunch of wood screws that are long enough to go through ONE side of the PVC and well into the wood without going all the way through. Then use a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw. Drill down through the PVC at about 6 or more spots along the length.

Then get a big drill bit that is slightly larger than the HEAD of the screw. Go back to each of the holes you drilled in the PVC with the smaller bit and drill the bigger hole ONLY IN THE TOP (OR ONE SIDE) of the PVC.

Lay the PVC on your board. Take your screws and a screw driver and slip the screw down through the big hole in the top of the PVC, and screw through the small hole inside the pvc into the wood.

There are detailed instructions in my book, "Killer Camera Rigs That You Can Build". Well worth the price!

Dan
www.DVcameraRigs.com

Reid Bailey · April 6th, 2005, 11:23 AM

D'oh! <Reid smacks himself in the head>

I actually have the book and have persudaded others to buy it.
I think I should try to use my head for something other than a hat rack...

Dan Selakovich · April 7th, 2005, 07:48 AM

You know, there was a day when I recognized people who ordered the book! I guess success of the book plus gearing up for my NAB seminars has melted my brain. Since you have the book, you know you can always contact me directly with any questions!

Dan
www.DVcamerarigs.com

March 19th, 2005, 02:08 PM	#16
Jim Parks New Boot Join Date: May 2003 Location: Rogers, Arkansas Posts: 8	You're welcome, Dan! I know the drill press isn't necessary, but, for me, it would make it much easier to do these projects. I purchased a 5 speed drill press for $50, and a vise for the drill press on sale for only $5.99 at Harbor Freight. It's a fun store to visit; good prices, too. Jim

April 4th, 2005, 10:38 AM	#17
Reid Bailey Major Player Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fredericksburg, Va Posts: 220	Hi all, It's been ages since I've posted here and this place continues to be a great source of info. A word of caution on the carts with the nu-matic wheels. The work well on even surfaces only. We used on last summer on an interior shot in an old pub with an old brick floor. It was useless. Really check out your floor and look for bumps, ridges etc. The cart that Dan posted looks fine. Do NOT get the version that is at Lowes (I think). It has a wire mesh deck as opposed to solid wood. And it's a pretty flimsy deck at that. It wobbled like crazy. Apart from the above the cart is not a bad way to go though. Dan, have you had any luck figuring how to link mulitple lengths of conduit? I've got a 75% solution and I hope to be testing it completely this weekend. But let me know if you've got something better. I've given up on the pvc, not stable enough and it can't be raised off the ground. Dan, when is your next book coming out?

April 5th, 2005, 07:55 AM	#18
Dan Selakovich Major Player Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 220	Hi Ried, Back in the old days when I was a gaffer/grip, we layed down sheets of plywood on uneven surfaces for the tires to run on. Still true today. Some part of filmmaking never change! As for PVC, you can attach it to 3/4" strips of plywood about 4" wide. You can raise it off the ground if you have enough support along the track. As for attaching PVC, use 1/2" (diameter) plumbing pipe nibbles. These are about an inch long and have threads their entire length. Take a pair of pliers and screw them in on PVC--as the nipple goes in, it will make its own threads in the pvc. Leave the nipple half way out and screw in the other PVC length. This will make a very tight seal, and the dolly wheels will not bump at all across the section. After a lot of use, the nipple may become loose. Just trim off an inch of the PVC and start again. This is the simplest solution for track. I've also used aluminum tubing with solid aluminum pegs, using JB weld to hold the pegs in one side of the tubing. Attaching them together is a little to involved to go into on this forum, but truth be told, I use the pvc because its faster, easier, cheaper, and readily available! I'm hoping Volume 2 will be ready by the Christmas rush! Dan www.DVcameraRigs.com

April 5th, 2005, 10:51 AM	#19
Reid Bailey Major Player Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fredericksburg, Va Posts: 220	hmmm, okay, I'll try using the plywood stirps for support. I've used the nipples in the past and they work fine. Is there a trick to mounting the pvc to the plywood. Do you top drill a hole and then screw through the bottom of the track? Or do you just go up through the plywood?

April 6th, 2005, 07:50 AM	#20
Dan Selakovich Major Player Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 220	Hi Reid, Get a bunch of wood screws that are long enough to go through ONE side of the PVC and well into the wood without going all the way through. Then use a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw. Drill down through the PVC at about 6 or more spots along the length. Then get a big drill bit that is slightly larger than the HEAD of the screw. Go back to each of the holes you drilled in the PVC with the smaller bit and drill the bigger hole ONLY IN THE TOP (OR ONE SIDE) of the PVC. Lay the PVC on your board. Take your screws and a screw driver and slip the screw down through the big hole in the top of the PVC, and screw through the small hole inside the pvc into the wood. There are detailed instructions in my book, "Killer Camera Rigs That You Can Build". Well worth the price! Dan www.DVcameraRigs.com

April 6th, 2005, 11:23 AM	#21
Reid Bailey Major Player Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fredericksburg, Va Posts: 220	D'oh! <Reid smacks himself in the head> I actually have the book and have persudaded others to buy it. I think I should try to use my head for something other than a hat rack...

April 7th, 2005, 07:48 AM	#22
Dan Selakovich Major Player Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 220	You know, there was a day when I recognized people who ordered the book! I guess success of the book plus gearing up for my NAB seminars has melted my brain. Since you have the book, you know you can always contact me directly with any questions! Dan www.DVcamerarigs.com