Run 'N' Gun Techniques at DVinfo.net

Ken Grohs · September 28th, 2007, 08:00 AM

I'm considering very hard getting an HD-110, and have some basic technique questions. Any response is greatly appreciated!

I am a motorsports videographer/photographer, and currently work primarliy with the Canon XL-series cameras.

As my subjects are moving anywhere from 200-300mph, and covering distances from the camera of dozens of yards to 1/2 mile, I was wondering how one was supposed to manipulate both the focus and zoom controls simultaneously in order to get proper imaging.
Do you folks that do this sort of work with ENG non-auto cameras simply close down the iris and depend on DOF for focus (thereby only having to worry about zooming), or is there some other technique that I'm missing?

Thanks!!!

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Chris, I know this may not be the most appropriate forum for this thread, but couldn't find similar questions, and since the HD-110 is what I'm considering I thought this was as good a place as any.

-Ken

Marc Colemont · September 28th, 2007, 10:55 AM

To worry less about focusing on the fly, make sure to put the lens in it's sweet-spot.
Which is around F4-F5.6. I'm sure Tim Dashwood and others can tell you much more about this.
In outdoor conditions to achive this setting, you need extra ND-filters in front of your lens.
I use most of the time 0.6ND with a Mattebox (and the internal ND at position 2)

Brian Drysdale · September 28th, 2007, 11:02 AM

For hand held work, ENG style cameras like the HD 110 are designed so that you can operate both the zoom and the focus at the same time.

When the camera being used on a tripod you can use a zoom control on the pan handle with one hand and adjust the focus with the other.

Being a 1/3" camera, you've got more DOF with the HD110 than the 2/3" ENG cameras. However, you do need to practise and having manual control allows you top decide where you want the focus, not the camera.

William Hohauser · September 28th, 2007, 11:06 AM

Since the camera comes with a standard mechanical pro style lens, what you want to do is something that ENG sports photographers have been doing for years. One hand on the focus ring and the other on the lens zoom rocker. You just need some practice and you are good to go. Possibly better then the Canon lenses in terms of response.

There is one thing I would question, the appropriateness of the HD-110 for sports photography. Since the camera is made to record in 30p HDV with no provision for 60p in full 1280x720 HDV, it might be better for you to look into the HD-200 which can. The HD-110 can put out a 60p live output thru the analog connectors but that's only useful in certain specific configurations (live switch, external HD recorder).

September 28th, 2007, 08:00 AM	#1
Ken Grohs Major Player Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 395	Run 'N' Gun Techniques I'm considering very hard getting an HD-110, and have some basic technique questions. Any response is greatly appreciated! I am a motorsports videographer/photographer, and currently work primarliy with the Canon XL-series cameras. As my subjects are moving anywhere from 200-300mph, and covering distances from the camera of dozens of yards to 1/2 mile, I was wondering how one was supposed to manipulate both the focus and zoom controls simultaneously in order to get proper imaging. Do you folks that do this sort of work with ENG non-auto cameras simply close down the iris and depend on DOF for focus (thereby only having to worry about zooming), or is there some other technique that I'm missing? Thanks!!! ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Chris, I know this may not be the most appropriate forum for this thread, but couldn't find similar questions, and since the HD-110 is what I'm considering I thought this was as good a place as any. -Ken

September 28th, 2007, 11:06 AM	#4
William Hohauser Inner Circle Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: New York City Posts: 2,650	Since the camera comes with a standard mechanical pro style lens, what you want to do is something that ENG sports photographers have been doing for years. One hand on the focus ring and the other on the lens zoom rocker. You just need some practice and you are good to go. Possibly better then the Canon lenses in terms of response. There is one thing I would question, the appropriateness of the HD-110 for sports photography. Since the camera is made to record in 30p HDV with no provision for 60p in full 1280x720 HDV, it might be better for you to look into the HD-200 which can. The HD-110 can put out a 60p live output thru the analog connectors but that's only useful in certain specific configurations (live switch, external HD recorder). __________________ William Hohauser - New York City Producer/Edit/Camera/Animation

September 28th, 2007, 10:55 AM	#2
Marc Colemont Major Player Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Belgium Posts: 695	To worry less about focusing on the fly, make sure to put the lens in it's sweet-spot. Which is around F4-F5.6. I'm sure Tim Dashwood and others can tell you much more about this. In outdoor conditions to achive this setting, you need extra ND-filters in front of your lens. I use most of the time 0.6ND with a Mattebox (and the internal ND at position 2)

September 28th, 2007, 11:02 AM	#3
Brian Drysdale Inner Circle Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Belfast, UK Posts: 6,143	For hand held work, ENG style cameras like the HD 110 are designed so that you can operate both the zoom and the focus at the same time. When the camera being used on a tripod you can use a zoom control on the pan handle with one hand and adjust the focus with the other. Being a 1/3" camera, you've got more DOF with the HD110 than the 2/3" ENG cameras. However, you do need to practise and having manual control allows you top decide where you want the focus, not the camera.