GH 6 Users - Settings Causing OverExposure

[Russ Gutshall]

Greetings -- so somehow my video is getting overexposed big time. I'm shooting 5.8K - with Atomos Ninja 5+ -- when I hit the shutter initially on GH-6 - for a "split second" -- I get good exposure - but within like a tenth-of-a-second -- the exposure is totally blown out - histogram shows way right side exposure - and recorded clip shows way overexposed when played back.

If I change display to allow option of touching LCD and tapping aperture settings - things get much better or more accurate exposure. What setting have I got screwed up and how do I fix it ? Going on a real big trip to Antarctica very soon -- and want to get this snafu resolved ! HELP !!

[Doug Jensen]

Are you setting Shutter Speed, ISO/Gain, and Aperture manually? If so, what would be your typical settings? What method are you using to judge the exposure and determine the correct exposure settings?

Are you using ND filters outdoors during daytime to keep levels within normal ranges?

If you're not using full-manual, that is the source of the problem right there. Look no further.

[Russ Gutshall]

Hey Doug -- Wow that was quick ! About 2005 or so you replied to some posts re using my Sony EX-3 !

I was trying to shoot full auto - just using the camera icon on the dial - to let cam figure - ISO - Shutter - etc. I was attached to my Atomos Ninja 5+ via HDMI. Initially I thought maybe - somehow - that when I disconnected the GH-6 from the Ninja - that maybe when I disconnected the HDMI cable that something got hung up and caused this overexposure thing. Am still learning the GH-6 (I did update latest firmware).

Right after the update I starting noticing this ov/exp thing - and also that a 'red" - "HDMI II" was showing on the LCD/Display on the camera. Had never seen this before when initially using Ninja.

If I can't figure out what's going on - I'll have to start using a hand held incident meter for exposure - and adjust for Antarctica snow - ice - water -- Don't know what's going on !?

Are you willing to give up your phone for conversation -- or reply to personal web site info/contact info for discussion ? I'm east coast Atlanta --

[Doug Jensen]

Hi Russ,

I don't own a GH6, but I do have an S1H and I know the two are very similar. You might want to check out my 4-hour S1H master class. https://vimeo.com/ondemand/s1h

It should give you the knowledge you need to take control over the camera and not have to rely on auto-matic.
I'm not sure what you think you are gaining with the Atomos. It is not needed. i'd dump it and simplify the camera . . . and your trip.

Here's chapter 1:

Doug Jensen's Panasonic Lumix S1H Master Class - Trailer on Vimeo

[Ron Evans]

There are lots of choices for automatic exposure metering if you are using auto. You may want to try setting "highlight" for the exposure meter if you are using auto a lot. The RED HDMI on the LCD is there if you have set HDMI output control in the menu. I agree with Doug, not sure why you would want the complication of the Ninja on your trip. Lots of cables,batteries to go wrong. You may want to take the approved Anker powerbank to supply USB C power as a better alternative in you luggage.

Steven Litton https://www.youtube.com/c/stevelitton/videos has a good series of instructions on the GH6.


I have GH6 and GH5S both with Ninja V but all my shoots are in the theatre on tripods.

[Noa Put]

not sure why you would want the complication of the Ninja

Not sure how good the peaking is on the gh6 but on my s1/s5 it's unusable as it almost disappears when you hit record, a ext recorder might not be needed but a good monitor can help a lot when you want manually focus. I use a shinobi monitor and it's like day and night difference (read easier) when it comes to judging focus but it does add extra bulk.

[Doug Jensen]

Not sure how good the peaking is on the GH6, but on my S1H it works pretty good. I use +2 for 4K and +1 for HD.

[Doug Jensen]

Originally Posted by Ron Evans

There are lots of choices for automatic exposure metering if you are using auto.

Lot of choices, none of them good. Learn to shoot full manual if you want to get things right, and also avoid fluctuations right in the middle of your shots. Manual exposure is so easy to do there's just no reason to use auto.

[Ron Evans]

Originally Posted by Doug Jensen

Lot of choices, none of them good. Learn to shoot full manual if you want to get things right, and also avoid fluctuations right in the middle of your shots. Manual exposure is so easy to do there's just no reason to use auto.

I was offering a solution for those who want to shoot auto. It is easy to constrain the range that the camera can control in auto. Fix shutter speed and gain limit for example will give reasonable results for those who want to shoot in semi auto. Yes, by the way I shoot full manual almost all the time.

[Doug Jensen]

And I was offering a counterpoint solution -- not using auto at all. There's no reason for it.

[Ron Evans]

That is your choice others may not agree with that approach. It is possible to use the GH6 in auto with control over what it does. In certain circumstances that would be useful to someone who does not spend their life running cameras. For sure if you want complete control shoot manual. But I disagree with you in I do think there is a place for auto to make life easier for someone who is more interested in the situation than the video performance of what they shoot. There is no reason that one could not shoot manual for important situations and full auto in others.

[Doug Jensen]

We're both entitled to our opinions, but just for the record, I totally disagree with your suggestions. Leaning to shoot 100% manual is within the grasp of anyone who has at least a third grade education. Suggesting that full manual is only attainable by people who "spend their life running cameras" is an insult to people who just need a little encouragement to learn, rather than making it seem it is outside their ability. Have some confidence in your fellow man . . . and women.

[Ron Evans]

Sorry Doug. It's a bit like saying anyone can learn to drive a manual car rather than use an automatic because manual is better. How many race cars are now full manual?

As with most things these days the computer(s) actual controls the device. The user tells it what to do. Either precisely (apparent manual control ) or by some other inference. Full auto, semi auto or manual. It's the same computer doing the control. Before you answer. Yes there are vintage manual lens but most lenses people buy today for their camera are full computer control with firmware that can be updated. When you press a button on a cameras you are telling the computer to do something. Lots of buttons, especially on Panasonic can be reprogrammed to do many things.

[Doug Jensen]

Originally Posted by Ron Evans

Sorry Doug. It's a bit like saying anyone can learn to drive a manual car rather than use an automatic because manual is better. How many race cars are now full manual? .

That is a a completely false analogy. Besides, I never said I was against everything automatic. Auto-focus, for example, is definitely good enough to use on some cameras and can even exceed the performance of people who do "spend their life running cameras". Good AF performance is a big deal because focusing manually is an actual skill that must be learned and practiced.

On the other hand, there are no video cameras that offer acceptable auto-exposure performance. They either get the exposure wrong or they allow the exposure to fluctuate in the middle of a shot -- or both. Not every shot, of course, but often enough that it must be avoided if people don't want to settle for amateur-looking results. The good news is that setting exposure manually is not really a skill. It is just a matter of choosing the right settings before you press record. A monkey could do it. Send me a monkey and I will train him.

[Ron Evans]

Depends on circumstances. AF for me is not viable in the theatre. For however good it may be it will not manage wild light swings. Frantically searching for focus until the lights stabilize again. That really will look very amateur. Yes that same situation will send the auto exposure off too depending on camera but most of the time the exposure response is much faster than AF so you can see I always manual focus as well as exposure.

For me someone who is on holiday and more interested in the situation than the video just wants to point and shoot. Auto everything is valid but that still means knowing how to set up the camera for that situation to stop the camera doing crazy things. The GH6 has custom settings on the dial that can be programmed for different situations limiting the amount of needed interaction.