Ha ha ha.. Yes, Barry, that's exactly what that looks like!

So I had my mill master friend Warren intrigued enough to make a prototype skater dolly, yes indeed, and he just finished it today!

The stock HVX lens was a breeze to work with:

http://www.holyzoo.com/content/hvx20...ottleDolly.mov

The 35mm MPIC proved to be very very challenging as I expected, but I think I got some good shots dollying and pulling focus. My back freakin hurts now.

http://www.holyzoo.com/content/hvx20...5mm_Test11.mov

Now I need to get Warren to fashion a bowl mount for this thing now, so I can use my Bogen 519 head on it.

-steev

Pic of the skater prototype.

http://www.holyzoo.com/content/hvx20...s/IMG_4355.jpg

Nifty.

And the dog seems to like it too...

@ Steev: That footage of the skater dolly is looking good! Are you just making it for yourself or planing to take it in production/sell it?

I'm working with Warren to fine tune things and get to a finished device. Any one interested, please private message me for details on the how, when, how much, etc. After this he may be tackling a steadicam-like stabilizer as well.

Ditto - I think breathing is a DP issue. Almost no viewer is going to care IMO. If it really bugs you then it could be fixed in After Effects or Shake to look rock solid - theoretically. I haven't done it, but it doesn't seem too tough.

Steev,

Thanks for posting so much good stuff! The noise "controversy" dried up pretty quickly with the introduction of your footage and a few recent tests by Barry Green. What's the magic to getting such clean low light footage? The crushed blacks are sweeeet! Did you do a little color work in post or is this all straight from camera? Please share your magic settings.
Wow, I'm just amazed by this camera. I've been putting it off, but time to whip out the visa card. Keep up the good work!

Edit: Re-read beginning of thread and think I found my answer. I was specifically wondering about settings/post for the skater dolly shots. I really like that look.

Thanks Damon! All clips so far have been stock HVX200 with Cine Matrix and Gamma with all other settings at 0. On some, but not all, I've also done some tweaking with 3-way Color Correction in Final Cut Pro. I haven't used Magic Bullet or DFT Tools yet. Things should get pretty fun in After Effects too. :D

Note added: The settings for the Skater Dolly shots were as decribed above, and lighting for the bottle shots was just a single Arri 650 light with a purple gel. The animal shots was using a single 200 watt Lowel Pro-Light.

More test stuff - http://www.holyzoo.com/content/hvx20...5mm_Test12.mov

Workin on an abstract music video now to one of the Astronaut Lunchbox tunes. ;)

Steev,

The results you are getting are just staggeringly good. I'm very impressed.
So, my goal is to mimic your setup. I've been in touch with Dan, but I was wondering if you could answer some questions before I order the device from him?

Will attaching the device to the the camera require me to modify the camera in any way (such as drilling holes etc.)?

You mentioned something about having a friend custom mill some parts to make the device work. What are the details concering this?

As I understand it, the device allows you to mount any Nikon lens (although only for still film cameras, not digital), does it also work with other brands? And what about autofocus lenses?

Will shooting with the stock lens work with the device attached, or do you need to remove it first?

You mentioned that an empty filter ring provided the right spacing between the camera and the device. What kind of ring do you use?


Sorry about the barrage of questions, but your results have got me firing on all cylinders.

Very grateful for any answers you can provide.

Thank you!

- Jens

Thanks for the positive words Jens. :)

Attaching the device requires no camera modification at all, besides taking off the HVX200 lens hood.

You should ask Dan to do this for you. I sent him a closeup photo of the part I had modified.

I'd say the lenses you want are Nikon primes, and not the ones specifically for Digital cameras, since those often don't allow manual aperture adjustment. Autofocus lenses can work. Consult Dan about which ones will work and which won't, but in general, any Nikon prime will work. The faster the better 1.2, 1.4, 1.8, etc.

If I understand your question correctly, you're asking about how to shoot with the stock lens. To do so, you have to take the MPIC off. So if you were shooting some shots with the MPIC, and some with the stock lens, this will require quick removal of the device. It doesn't take very long to do.

I suggest consulting Dan about what his plans are for what's required for MPIC use with the HVX200. I had to put a bunch of empty filter rings to get the right distance. As stated previously, the MPIC works with the DVX100 perfectly with 1 empty UV Tiffen filter ring added. This yields an image free of vignetting or distortion. The HVX200 is requiring about 2 inches of space, so that's a bunch of empty filters, and at that point, the image is not totally free of vignetting or distortion. What I'm doing is cropping in post *if* the vignetting and distortion is distracting. Sometimes it's not a big deal, as you can see in a lot of the footage I've posted. Some footage I've cropped to eliminate these potential artifacts.

My testing shows that the image even after cropping (if needed) is better than the image from the DVX100. As of my last communication with Dan, he doesn't have a HVX200 available for testing, as a lot of people don't have a HVX200 yet either. As soon as he can do some testing, I'm assuming he'll have an easy solution.

As a final note, take a look at all the footage you've seen posted here, and determine if that's along the lines of what you're going for. A lot is possible with this set up, and the shallow depth of field presents some dramatic shots. I would recommend using both the stock HVX200 lens, and the MPIC selectively, since the image on any camera will be sharpest with the stock lens vs a 35mm imager. Additionally, shallow depth of field is often simply a pain and hassle to work with. I've been also enjoying using the stock HVX200 without any 35mm imager. Then use the MPIC for more dramatic closeups, etc. Both stock and 35mm footage should cut together nicely.

Thank you for the prompt and informative reply Steev!

Quite frankly I'm not the camera nerd I want to be. I'm fairly comfortable with compositions, post and other aspects of filmmaking (directing and drama), but a good camera operator I am not (yet). Your answers are a big help in broadening my understanding.
I do however know that a setup similar to yours is what I have been craving for years. So my plan now is to aquire the proper gear and practice, practice, practice.

A couple more questions popped up.

What are the reasons you opted for the MPIC as opposed to one of the significantly cheaper options, such as the M2?

Are there anamorphic lenses that will work with the MPIC? I haven't found any yet, but I might be looking in the wrong place.

Thank you so much for taking the time.

- Jens

I chose the MPIC since it's a complete system with gears and follow focus. Red Rock seems to be about ready to offer a complete system as well. I was also feeling that the MPIC most closely resembles an evolution of the adapter that I built myself. So I was wanting what I got in my U35A but fully developed and realized. I may be getting a hold of the M2 at some point as well, to compare, but also to have two 35mm systems :)

I have no idea where you'd look for this. If I was wanting to do super wide screen, I'd just use the HVX200 safe guides, and crop in post.

I see. Will the MPIC also flip the image upside down, or is that unique to the M2? Are there any other 35mm Imagers that you considered before settling on the MPIC?

Ah, but even assuming one can live with the resolution loss, what about those cool looking lens flares? ;-)

All the best,

- Jens

All of these imagers flip the image upside down and reversed horizontally. There are only two that dont. The Letus35 and the P+S Technik mini35.

Try this: http://www.widescreen-centre.co.uk/p...CREEN_lens.pdf

If it works to a 4:3 CCD, to a 16:9 CCD, the anamorphic effect will be closer to 2.35:1 ratio or isn't it so?

Steev,


Some awesome footage there man.. Ya like the Stephen King of HVX proliferation.. You have been busy and we are greatful for your efforts. Now if only this thing was as popular as the canon or the JVC... I'd be able to walk in and get one today..... Bah all.. the Noise is too bad, the 1080 sucks.. Everyone run away.. Run away... Meanwhile, I'll just sneak right in there.

Why did I turn down my first HVX. I would have had it on the 28th, but smucky me.. I had to hold out for a sweeter deal. FOILED again.


Thanks for allowing me to see what i'm waiting for.. and saving for.. and crap, I'll have to get a 35mm adapter now too. Keeping up with the Steev's... CONGRATS bro.. looks awesome

Thanks!
You need Final Cut Pro to view those clips.

I bought 2 8GB cards. I'm using the camera to transfer the video into Final Cut Pro via FireWire. There's a wealth of information on workflow on DVinfo and DVXuser, so I suggest taking advantage of all the posting that's been going on here for several months. Regarding workflow to film distribution, I have no idea whatsoever. There are threads on DVXuser that cover this. The extent of my distribution would be Web, DVD, HD-DVD/Blu-Ray, or Tape-based masters for TV broadcast. I highly doubt my material getting film release. ;)

hvx
 

Steve,

I guess not only the technology but also the craftmanship plays an important role. I always liked your work and the way you handle the camera. Your camerwork is always unique.

Did you use special lighting on the lake scene test. I hope not. Identify me the clips that you used extra lighting i want to see it. I think you used some lighting on dolly&bottle clip.

Hari

Amazed at Steev's Cinematography.
 

Steev, you do great work. You have a tremendous eye for cinematography. Let me get this right: you've got the HVX, Dan's adapter, and then do you just put a variety of Nikon photo lenses onto Dan's adapter to get that amazing film look? I've researched the forum as much as possible to put together the pieces. Forgive me if any of this is repetitive...but if you could just give me the steps of what I need from the time I remove the matte box off the HVX...and so on...man, I would be forever grateful to you. Thanks endlessly for sharing your clips, your knowledge and wonderful talents. Jumping ahead, if I can get the 35mm adapter from Dan, what is a good standard medium sized Nikon lens to go with? For instance, what lens did you use on the nice DOF shot you took with a man and a little girl sitting on a grassy bank? Or the shot where there is a lake in the background and a large tree in the foreground? Dude, any help is so appreciated. Also, let me ask this: where did you get your HVX from? Should I go with B&H? I notice they're accepting orders, but don't have any in stock. How long do you think I'd have to wait? Or, is there another place to get them that is respected...what would your recommendation be? Thanks much. You do, indeed, kick ass. Keep it up!

Thanks so much. I hit a point of exhaustion after a streak of heavy shoots and work lately, and you're helping the recovery back to a stride.

That's basically it. The 35mm imager and lenses on the HVX200 is very magical combo.

From the HVX200 out to the Nikon lens, here's what I have that's working on the HVX with the MPIC:

HVX200 -> 82mm-72mm Step-Down Ring -> 7 blank 72mm thread UV filters of various brands to achieve about 2 inches of distance -> MPIC device which has 72mm threads on one side and a Nikon mount on the other -> Nikon lens. Additionally the MPIC comes with a Cavision mount and rails.

The procedure for assembly is:

Take off the stock HVX Matte Box. Mount the Cavision plate to the HVX200, then mount the tripod plate to the underside of the Cavision. Put all that on the tripod. Screw the MPIC device onto the HVX200. Then slide the rails into the MPIC device and Cavision mount, and tighten down the rod tightening levers. Mount a Nikon lens on the front. Adjust the HVX200 to Zoom 77, Focus 00. That's it.

I have a 35mm f/2, 55mm f/1.2, 85mm f/1.4, and a 105mm f/2 Micro Nikkor. The man with girl shot was with the 105mm. The lake shot was with the 35mm I believe. To tell the truth, I've used the 35mm, 55mm, and 105mm, but not the 85mm. I may end up selling it and getting a 80-200mm zoom. Having a 20mm lens or wider would be cool to have too.

I ordered from B&H and I got mine relatively quickly. Since they are a sponsor here, I can recommend them to you. Regarding how fast you'd get a hold of one, you should call them and inquire.

Thanks again for the positive words!

-steev

Thanks Truly
 

Thanks so much for taking the time to respond to what must be totally repetitive to you, but know that it is appreciated more than you know. So, what's going on for you these days? Cool projects? Have you shot the music video I read about on here somewhere? Keep it up, man.

I'm reposting this hack here since this thread is already started.

This hack is to achieve flipping the built-in LCD on the HVX200 for use with a 35mm adapter.

Thanks to David at DVXuser for figuring this out - http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=53456

In short, you take the cover off the LCD joint, and insert something to press a switch to engage the flip. After seeing David's photos, I took a close look at the cover. I discovered two side notches that look like the main release levers. I used a 90 degree allen wrench to push these in. I wasn't sure of the other two notches on the top and bottom, but inserting a small jewelers screwdriver on the top released it.

Look at this photo here to see all four notches you need to release. The piece easily comes off if all notches are released.

http://www.holyzoo.com/content/hvx20...FlipTrick1.jpg

Here are the rest of my photos showing the cover with all four notch holes, the tie wrap I inserted that conveniently holds in place by tucking inside the LCD inset compartment (or whatever you wanna call it).

http://www.holyzoo.com/content/hvx20...FlipTrick2.jpg
http://www.holyzoo.com/content/hvx20...FlipTrick3.jpg
http://www.holyzoo.com/content/hvx20...FlipTrick4.jpg
http://www.holyzoo.com/content/hvx20...FlipTrick5.jpg
http://www.holyzoo.com/content/hvx20...FlipTrick6.jpg
http://www.holyzoo.com/content/hvx20...FlipTrick7.jpg
http://www.holyzoo.com/content/hvx20...FlipTrick8.jpg

Hey Steev,

I really enjoy seeing all the work you've been doing. I'm trying to decide which 35mm adapter to get and want to ask your direct advice since you've got alot of MPIC time under your belt. I've pretty much given up hope for the Cinemek so my decision rests between the MPIC and M2. However, I'm really concerned about light loss and from what I understand, the MPIC may have the least.

I don't believe you've tried the M2 yet but I wanted to ask you if you feel the MPIC may be the best adapter out right now in terms of light loss, sharpness, etc... Do you recommend I go for it?

I want to add to this thread that I'm now selling the MPIC to recoup $$. Private message me if interested. :)

-steev

Any information on what kind of achromatic close up lens should be used to fully frame 35mm frame? Would Canon`s 500D do?

Regs,
T

I highly recommend the RedRock Micro HD achromat. It can get rid of any vignetting entirely.

-steev

Steev,
You went from the MPIC to the Redrock?

Well that's a deeper question that I can answer separately. However the question at hand was what achromat lens to use with the MPIC. And to that I replied using the HD achromat by Redrock. Using the achromat with the MPIC is different than using the whole M2 system by RedRock.

Regarding me and RedRock, I now own the M2 system, yes. I have yet to do a full report on my usage, examples, and opinions. That's all I'll say in this thread about it, since this thread has always been about the MPIC. Thanks!

-steev

with preserving (lens)original AOV?

Steev,

WOW... i am sooooooooo impressed by your test and the Pana HVX 200 along with the 35mm adapter WOW....Thank you so much I spent a good 2 hours reading it all!!!

I have a quick question, is the MPIC 35mm give out the same results as the RedRock M2? Also what is the price for these adapter around 2-3g's ? Finaly Let's say I buy one or the other, do i need another form of adapter to mount it on or it's a matter of removing the stock lense and putting the new adapter?

Sorry for the silly questions, Im doing my best to learn as much as I can.

Regards,
Joey

Check out the Brevis35 too
 

I've been having great success with the Brevis35 from Cinevate. Here's some test clips:

http://bgundu.powweb.com/movies/tracksLaneway.mov
http://bgundu.powweb.com/movies/OneMinuteTooLong.mov
http://bgundu.powweb.com/movies/push...ola_Bgundu.mov

MPIC+ M2 acromat?
 

Hi Steev,

I have the MPIC, FF and gears, and most of what I do with e.g. a 55mm 2.8 micro nikkor, 85mm 2.0 and 17-35 2.8 looks great. But I have one little thing that I can't solve: on the 17-35mm I can't use the focal lengths below, say 22mm, because of vignetting. I normally use the same setup as you (00/77), but have tried with a Century Optics x7 achromatic diopter, on Dan's advice. Still doesn't quite get rid of the vignetting in those situations. I plan to shoot some white paper to create anti-vignetting layers in fcp, but I wonder if you have tried the M2 HD acromat with the MPIC? -If so, do you think it'll rid me of vignetting at these (admittedly) low focal lengths?
best, soren

It might not be a matter of adapter but lens. To determine it more precisely try some really expensive lens for wideangle. Btw it seems to me that Your lens might be designed for dslrs. Those have definately unacceptable vignetting using fullframe. Because of they're designed for smaller target area. You can find in given page lens vignetting characteristics as well.

Provided the lens is not a DSLR type, you can get rid of vignetting using the Red Rock Micro HD Achromat. I've tested it, and you can get more zoom "grab" with the Achromat, enough to get past any vignetting due to the small rear element on most zoom lenses. You can order the Achromat online from www.redrockmicro.com

-steev

thanks
 

Thanks Steev, I'll talk to Redrock.

Dear Frank, it's not a dslr lens. It's a very, very good analog slr lens, that I've tested on slr bodies, check it here: http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/1735.htm

kind regards, soren

Nice piece, but how it behaves by small irissizes. Not too small, because under(over) 5.6 You'll certainly see huge amount of grain but right before that ...say 4.0?
Method that Steev talks about isn't getting rid of vignetting but hotspotting. So if You have actually hotspot then it works.