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Old January 9th, 2009, 07:24 PM   #16
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Some comparison shots

Here is a shot yesterday with just softbox:

http://www.guitar-dreams.com/misc/video/softbox.jpg

Here is with softbox and 60W flo (couldn't find the 30W):

http://www.guitar-dreams.com/misc/vi...ox_and_60W.jpg

Not sure why today's shot has more reddish skin tones.

Anyway, curious what you think.

brian
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Old January 9th, 2009, 07:55 PM   #17
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Looks good. What fluo did you buy? That would likely explain the red cast. Would you be willing to upload the video to my site for me to play with a bit? I've been waiting for a chance to try my new upload/download service.
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Old January 9th, 2009, 08:12 PM   #18
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Yeah I can upload it. The flo is N:vision 60W daylight.

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Old January 10th, 2009, 02:03 AM   #19
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Frankly I like the warmer colors in the 2nd pic. You are getting there! Looks pretty good to me.

Chris S.

ps. Like Perrone I like the N:visions. I keep them in varying wattages to substitutes in practicals (existing light fixtures).
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Old January 10th, 2009, 02:15 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Huether View Post
Yeah I can upload it. The flo is N:vision 60W daylight.

brian
I doubt its a 60w. Probably a 15w with equivalent of 60w output. And sounds like you got a warm color temperature like 3000K or so. Normally you would want to match all the color temperatures at the same. In this case 5600K since the big bulb is already that.
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Old January 10th, 2009, 11:15 PM   #21
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The N:Visions come in 3 "flavors". The lowest in degrees Kelvin is "Soft white" and unfortunately I do not have any of those to tell you the mfgr's claimed color temp, but I would say somewhere sub 3200 Kelvin from memory. The next is "Bright white" and I think it is slightly above 3200 Kelvin. The last is "Daylight" and they at least claim it to be 5500 Kelvin on the packaging.

I have often wondered about the accuracy in both the manufacturing process and on the labelling claims.
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Old January 11th, 2009, 06:41 AM   #22
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The N:Visions come in 3 "flavors". The lowest in degrees Kelvin is "Soft white" and unfortunately I do not have any of those to tell you the mfgr's claimed color temp, but I would say somewhere sub 3200 Kelvin from memory. The next is "Bright white" and I think it is slightly above 3200 Kelvin. The last is "Daylight" and they at least claim it to be 5500 Kelvin on the packaging.

I have often wondered about the accuracy in both the manufacturing process and on the labelling claims.
2700K, 3500K, 5500k. I have color temp tested all three, and all three have fallen within 100k of the claimed color. I've been VERY pleased with these bulbs. For the price, they are nearly unbeatable. $10 for a 100w 2-pack last month at H.D. Awesome!
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Old January 12th, 2009, 06:49 AM   #23
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Yeah I can upload it. The flo is N:vision 60W daylight.

brian
Brian,

You don't appear to have private contact turned on. If you have an FTP client, connect here if you can:

ftp://98.230.31.52

And see if you can upload your video. I'd love to see it.
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Old January 14th, 2009, 11:02 PM   #24
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with a flo light, you can cut it with black fabric window screen. entire 50ft roll is something like $10. I have a couple hunks of this in my crate of gels. works great on the bottom of softboxes to control FG spill. much easier to use the a proper scrim + C stand, especially when needing to be light on gear / tight space. hold in place with C47's.

bobinette is the trade name of the real scrim material, but you can find about the same black hex lace in most fabric stores in an emergency. main difference is that the fabric store store isn't treated with any fire retardent unless marked as such ( very unlikely ! )

you can of course double or triple up to cut more.
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Old January 15th, 2009, 01:42 AM   #25
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Looking good Brian! When I work with guitarists I tend to like using a large diffuser, alà Dean Collins, as close as possible to the subject with one or two lights well behind it to make everything uniform. With the lights well behind the diffuser I can use those lights again with a bounce card for fill lights. I love the soft light and how it brings out the contours of the guitar without the ugly hot spots. Since the diffused light tends to make everything more flat, I usually put a spotlight behind the artist to separate them from the background and add some dimensionality to the scene.

I sort of learned how to shoot guitars from studying the Paul Reed Smith catalogs. They really have fantastic photographers for their instruments.

Have fun!
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