Light stand mount

[Jody Arnott]

Hi all,

Apologies for what is most likely a very basic question. I recently purchased a couple of cheap light stands for my LED lights. I have attached a photo of the mount at the top of the stands. I've not seen this type of mount before and have no clue how it might be used.

My LED lights have a standard female tripod screw mount, so I'm hoping I can find some sort of adapter to fit on the light stand mount.

Have done some Googling but as I have no clue what the mount is called, I don't know where to start.

Any info greatly appreciated!

[Garrett Low]

Looks like a 5/8" or "baby". Something like this should work:

Impact Rapid Baby to 1/4"-20 Male Threaded Adapter CA-101

[Jody Arnott]

Perfect. Thanks very much!

[Les Wilson]

@Jody, just an FYI ... that's a standard lighting mechanism. Some stands have the male 1/4-20 as well. A stand like that would have let you mount your fixture directly. However, in putting the recommended adapter on your fixture, you get the benefits of fast on/off and easy/sure footed turning adjustments of the fixture at the adapter.

[James Kuhn]

Jody Arnott...I've found "FilmTools" to be a great resource (see Link below) for Grip gear. There are certainly numerous other resellers out there, so look around.

Filmtools: Hollywood's source for Motion Picture and Digital Video Equipment and Supplies

I hope this helps.

Regards,

J.

[Donald McPherson]

Or if you are a skinflint like me just drill a hole and screw (glue) a 1/4 thread rod in.

[Jody Arnott]

Thanks all, appreciate the info. I think I'll just go with the Impact adapter that Garrett recommended. Seems like a quick and easy solution.

[Bob Hart]

Jody.

With those lightweight stands, if they have come from China, treat them gently. The column walls are very thin. Take care not to overtighten the thumbscrews in the sliding collar attached to the three pairs of leg braces or the little friction pads which are diecast may crack and drop out. This leaves the end of the thumbscrew free to punch holes into the column.

If you pull the the telescopic extensions out too far and manage to ram them in again from the top, there are steel friction plates inside castwork on the column ends which drop out inside the column and you end up with the same problem with the thumbscrew ends punching holes in the sliding columns. Those friction pieces are steel and more tolerant of tightening. If overtightening happens too much, you may see the columns begin to deform.

The standard lamp support end on top of the column is retained by a large pop rivet. This is adequate however if the column is let slip down heavily inside the one below, the head of this rivet may shear off and the column section get trapped inside.

If you experience a friction piece falling inside or a column section is over-extended and pulls out, to repair you have to take the base off, pull all the pieces out through bottom and re-assemble all pieces through the bottom of each section in turn. You have to file that rivet off, drill out the shank and replace it to get the upper column through. I drilled out the rivet entirely and tapped a thread inside the silver piece and used a machine screw but that's me being a bit obsessive. They are closed off at their respective bottom ends with rubber cups which act as seals for pneumatic-dampening and as supports for coiled springs.

I have a set of three which lasted me a good time when used by myself but were ruined overnight by a bunch of Tarzans I loaned them to.