They do make deeper pans. I had a fairly good distance I could pull back the lights too, which also helped diffuse it. Though its not perfect, and not near the result you would get from a 5 or 600.00 commercial light setup, two sets of lights and the items I used in the tutorial cost me less than 70.00 I know it made a huge difference between no diffuser, and the solution I made. I have a professional still photographer as a partner, and he thought the results were excellent considering the solution. ;)

That's a great solution. I think a Turkey baking tin would solve the distance issue, those things are about 10 or so inches deep. i think i'll try this myself on my next shoot to soften the light.

Thanks for the great tutorial! I think that to get rid of the wrinkles in the paper you could just quickly dry-iron them out. another option is that there is parchment paper available in a roll rather then the folded version.

I use the small yellow lights like you have, and also the larger red ones so i can get 1000W light. One thing I did that made my "cheap kit" more usable was to buy an extra extension cord and split the lights so that i could use them separately on individual stands as well as hook them up to the original dual stand. Just gives a little more leeway with the individual lights.

I think you should aim for a minimum of 12 inches from the element to the diffusion. Remember, you want the widest possible 'hot spot' on the diffusion to get the maximum 'softness'.

I understand that it's a cheap solution. ANd well done. There have been others who posted their diffusion material stretched on an independent frame, and them moved the worklights. (Which is how it's done on a set for large volume lights anyway.) Again, just a thought. My point was simply that it's strongest assett was its ability to eliminate spill. One of the best solutions I've seen at that price point.

Also, keep in mind, when one's home-made solutions start reaching the fifty to seventy five dollar range, you can start looking for used lowel lights and such as well. Just another thought.

Thats 70.00 for 2 sets of lights though, Each yellow 500w light set is around 26.00. So for one set would be around 35.00 I might hit the store today and see if I can find a deeper solution. The other thing that could be done also is double up on your paper to reduce the light a bit more even. Glad for all the positive responses. Glad if I can help others out in any way!

Doubling up on the paper won't "Soften" it any more, it will just lower the overall output.

The size of the spread on the diffusion element, is what makes the light "Softer". The further you can get the element from the paper, the broader will be the beam... the softer will be the resultant light. It's why there are 'baffles' INSIDE of softboxes... to dispurse the light. To keep from getting a hot spot in the middle of your big white surface. Ideally, the entire white surface should be as evenly lit as possible.

I got my baking tin today and yes, it needs to be deeper, but in a pinch it works well. Also, maybe some ideas for creating light weight barn doors for this? I was thinking about cutting up some of the aluminum and using hinges, but I havne't tried it yet...

Here's a DIY tutorial on doing just that:

http://www.bealecorner.com/trv900/barn/barndoors.html

H.

It won't work with baking tin because of the weight so another solution is probably necessary...

Sorry. I misunderstood your intent. Barn doors on the softbox. But do softboxes uusally have barn doors?

H.

It's funny, I never really thought of this as a softbox even though I guess it is!

Well... it's a 'box' around a light, designed to soften it... so yeah, it's a DIY 'softbox'. Thats the properties I've been critiquing it on. Like I said, it's an elegant solution, especially for controlling spill... which is one of the bigger problems using worklights. That's why there are tutorials for building barndoors for them. This eliminates the usual barn door solution in favor of attaching a 'softbox'. Again, my primary concern for the softness, is the shallow depth of the pan. Aside from that, a cheap fix for low budget filmmaking.

Pro softboxes will have 'egg crate' grills that attach to the front, this helps to cut down on spill. Some have fabric 'barn doors' that velcro to the edges, but I've never really found those very usefull. A flag on a c - stand will do a better job. But if you've got flags, and c - stands... you're probably not doing this.

Where can you get those egg crate grills?

Also, I have noticed the baking tins are very flimsy (I only got the cheap $1.00 store one). Maybe the turkey ones are more rigid?

Well yes they are only foil so obviously not going to be all that sturdy. Thats the joy of them. If they get smashed make a new one for a buck. I didnt get a chance to hunt for the deeper ones last night, but Ill look around soon. Have another shoot tonight, so see how it goes.

Hey Ryan, Just an Idea if you are really looking for some "depth" using the same kinda stuff.....They sell the cheap flat cookie sheets made of the same stuff(probably in the same Aisle at Walmart or Miejer)& you could get 4 of those and easily construct a traditional softbox shape and probably a pretty deep one. The joints could either be taped or just crimped(even pop-rivets if you please). Maybe I will try it too and see what I can come up with. Stuff like this is fun to me.

If you go to "cut" this stuff, be careful because it maybe sharp like an aluminum can.

I still say your original idea is cheap, easy, portable & with great diffusion. Lets keep building on it.

Very helpful
 

I'm not a pro-am videographer. Just an indie musician trying to do some stuff on budget for simple apps.

That light diffuser tutorial was incredibly helpful. Thanks, Ryan.

Best,

Charles

Np got your email. Ill keep in touch. Its nice to have local people to bs about video and whatnot. ;)

Yes, I'll be doing most of the bs-ing...I know nothing about this stuff..Strictly amateur. Just trying to improvise ;-)

Say, I am unencumbered by knowledge so I am going to throw out this possible suggestion for Ryan's work light solution.

Someone here mentioned that the distance from element to diffuser was too short. I don't know why that matters - but for now, I'm going to assume that it *does* matter.

Assuming you build the softbox the way Ryan suggests (with EZ Foil Pans). Could you then not attach white foamcore pieces to the foil to effectively extend the "box"? Then attach the diffusion material?

There is a foamcore softbox solution mentioned here:

http://www.studiolighting.net/foam-c...emade-softbox/

If the foamcore doesn't actually touch the light element, would it still be in danger of melting?

Thoughts, warnings?

Charles

I've used the oil drip pans from the automotive isle at wallymart to build sheet metal boxes using a rivit gun.... then had them powder coated.... looks pretty good.... mind you, my project was with 24" daylight flo's.

Im trying foamcore sheets at a shoot this week, but Im just going to use my lights with the diffusers and aim them at the foam core to bounce the light back at the model. Playing around to see how it goes. ;)

Ryan,

Where do you get your supplies like foamcore, gaffer tape etc?

Charles

Gaffer tape I got from when I worked for crew one as a rigger hehe. Foamcore should be available at lowes or home depot, but my partner that does still photography has a few sheets.

you can get white and black foam-core at any wallymart.... and guerilla duck tape is the most hard core black duct tape I've ever used.... spensive, but strong.

I've been a still photog professionally for over 20 years... and foamcore/gator board is a must have in my studio and on location. I've built entire sets with 4'X8' foam-core.... and even a temp darkroom with black gatorboard. ( gatorboard is like foam-core, but with a firmer foam inner.... you can get it as thick as 2" )

Diffusion for very hot lights
 

Find the closest hot air balloon manufacturer and get a few yards of their flame proof fabric. it's a little thicker than regular scrimming fabric, but lots of peace of mind; I have several yards of the stuff, ordered it over the phone from someone in Ft. Worth as I recall; I use it often with my 6" fresnels when I need more soft light, and those babies are lamped at 650 to 1000 watts. I just pull the lenses and slide the lamps to the front (flood) position.

And I'm with the "diffusion's too close in these solutions" camp... even a 3' softbox is just a fairly hard light once it gets a few feet away... nice for closeups, but for broad, soft light, I'm still a believer in hanging big sheets of white fabric from c-stands and using 4x8 black foam to control it. essentially you end up with 4' x 8' softboxes this way, with a big enough sweet spot that talent can really move around, all for a couple bucks.

Thats good if you have a large room or studio to work in, but we change location frequently, and space is always at a premium. We have been bouncing the lights and diffusers I made off the ceiling a bit if things get too bright. We're going to try the diffusers plus bouncing off the foam core this week and see how that goes.

The 'source' for your soft light, is the last surface it departs from. That's why the larger the 'face' of the softbox, the broader and softer the light. Hence the need for the actual element to be further away from it. You don't want a concentrated hot spot to show up on the white surface. If you bounce the small soft element onto a 4x8 softcard like foamcore, than you'll wind up with a much softer 4x8 'light' to work with. That's great. Of course the trip TO the surface of the bounce element and then FROM the surface of the bounce element diminishes the intensity of the light. Remember, light falls off at the inverse square of the distance. So it happens exponentially.

How soft is the light from the sand-blasted worklight?
Can you show us pictures taken with this reportedly nice light? Thanks!

used diffuser and reflector combination today on a shoot and worked out beautifully.

Hey Ryan

Are you saying that the work light/ezfoil/diffuser improv was shone onto reflectors? Did you use foamcore or regular reflectors?

Just wondering.

Charles

I guess we'll ever know exactly how soft the sandblasted worklight is.

Is there a reversible way to soften a halogen worklight? I'm thinking of spreading something like face powder over it. Something removable.

I just wanted to take a second to thank Ryan for his excellent tutorial on making a soft box, I've been using these workshop lights for a few months now but the extent of my diffusing was simply bouncing the light off nearby walls, I'm sure your softbox idea will be much more practical in the future, heh.

I used actual reflector material in this case rather than foamcore, though I had both available. I had stands to use for the reflectors so it gave me more ability to position them how I needed. I dont always have those available though. Sorry for my neglect in responding but Ive been in Vegas all week for an industry trade show. Just got back yesterday.

No problem I just hope it was useful to some people. :)

Hey Ryan

No problem. Thanks.

Charles

That was awesome and honestly the best work light difuser tutorial I have ever seen. And the girl at the end WOW. What can I say. I actually bought a similar work light but from Sears that I will try it with. I am definitely sold on that. Great job! And I will try the same!

OMG that is too funny! LOL

Anyone know where I can see that video? The link seems to be broken now. Thanks!

Ditto on that

Stephen,

Not to burst your bubble...

On the one hand you need diffused light, but on the other hand you also need a broad source. Broader the light source softer it is.

So if you're trying to really get a "SoftBox" effect then what you should really do is mount a diffusion layer a bit away from the lights. Bedsheet, Rip-Stop Nylon etc.

There are two advantages to this:
1. The diffusion material is away from the heat source thus reducing the risk of fire.
2. The light is a broad source. That is from the subject's (or cameras) point of view, the light is emitting from a broad source.

Now diffusing those light might be a good idea in and of itself, but a softlight it will not make.

I've used these lights and done the glass bit and then moved to the Rip-Stop nylon and that was a whole lot better.

The other issue with those lights is the heat and of course the power consumption. Mine are 1200W at full bright. Each light has a 300W halogen and there are two.

You can get the same light output with practically no heat using CFLs. Mount them in a home made enclosure and put some rip-stop nylon in front of them and you've got a really great soft box.

Or you can do what I eventually did (after experimenting with both suggestions above).

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=103871

Shiv.

We did some shower curtain tests:

Y.A.F.I.:Underground Media