Well, they'll both have the Sony "look", so there shouldn't be any problem. You didn't say which ratio (16:9 or 4:3) she's been using. There'll be a resolution difference in 16:9 that's all.
For what it's worth, I've been matching the FX1 with a Canon XL1s without any problem ...

Robin

Recording in HDV - outputing in progresive DV
 

When shooting in DV, is the cineframe (PAL 25fps) effect of the FX1 performed before the resampling from 1080i is performed? or after?

If it is performed before, i would almost have a real progressive footage.
If not, i would have footage that looks like the old XL1 frame mode, wouldn´t I?

Anybody have any Cineframe 30 images?
 

I am writing a program to process FX1/Z1 footage into any other format and I need some image samples shot with the FX1/Z1 in Cineframe 30/25 at full resolution and uncompressed.

Does anybody know where I can find some still images samples?

NTSC Bars on PAL FX1
 

Anyone know of a fix or a secret button combination to change it to EBU bars?? Firmware upgrade?

FX1 Rental in Michigan?
 

Hey, I'm about to pick up an FX1 (as many of you have no doubt heard by now ;-) ) and I'm going to need to get some HD shots of the camera in action for my new demo reel. I'm looking to rent either an FX1 or a Z1 for a day of shooting. I'm located in Cadillac, in northern Michigan. Does anybody here know of a rental house in Michigan where I can rent an FX1/Z1? Thanks for any suggestions!

Synchronizing Z1 With Sound Devices 744T Audio Recorder
 

All:

Okay, so here I have these two fine pieces of professional A/V gear and people are telling me I need to use an archaic clap slate to sync the sound recorded in my expensive, timecode-savvy 744T to my expensive, timecode-savvy Sony Z1u.

This makes me want to find a better way.

I'm theorizing that I can use the LANC out of my Z1, run it through some sort of converter widget (a Rosendahl LIF?) that stripts the timecode out and send that into my 744T set to "External TC-Auto Record" mode. Very nice. But will it work?

Has anyone done anything similar? Is there a better way? Am I stuck with that clap slate?

have a look here:

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthrea...highlight=LANC

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthrea...highlight=LANC

My last word on the Artifacts Thread
 

Hi :)

as the Artifacts Thread is closed, I have no other chance to say one more thing, than starting a new one, if that's ok.

Reading through all that (especially Douglas and Ruslan) I finally tried that CapDVHS tool.

And it's simple as this: No more Artifacts at all. The resulting MPEG is wonderful.
So I am sorry to say, but it then must be the cineform intermediate, that always did a good job until that special shot.

And I can also see a color difference. But very little. No Problem to me.

The downconversion to SD via Aftereffects still isn't as good as the one from the Z1. At least here.
Doing the downconversion I found the simple thing that 1080 / 2 = 540 :) So, no wonder tome, that the missing 36 Lines have to come from .... yes ... don't know. Must be interpolated. So you could say that it's not possible to do a interlaced downconversion. But still somehow Sony's Z1-Conversion is doing it right.

OK: 50% of my Problem solved through the Artifacts Discussion.

Thanks to everyone!

Peter

Auto Exposure problem
 

I was making some exposure comparisons between manual & automatic with my Z1 & noticed that the max shutter speed in auto was 125 (I found this out during playback as exposure information, manual or automatic, can be monitored on the LCD viewscreen). On a bright, sunny day, even with the iris at f11, the video was way overexposed. As the sky became overcast the shutter speed would adjust downward but never higher than 125. In manual mode all seems to work OK.
Any ideas?

Normally camera's in auto mode work within certain limitations. My guess
would be that the 1/125th shutter speed setting is simply limited because
the look above that would not be so great (even 1/125th is questionable,
depending on subject). However, I don't have this camera, so I'm not sure
if that is a design limitation or something is wrong.

However, there are two things you can do:

1. don't shoot in auto mode (which is a good suggestion anyway)

2. reduce the incoming light. I assume the camera comes with a builtin ND filter? If so, enable that (if the auto mode doesn't do this automatically). If that is still not enough you can get an external ND screw on filter (not too expensive).

An ND filter is like sunglasses for your camera. It simply cuts the incoming light
levels by an X amount (depending on the filter strenght).

FX1 accessories in Bangkok?
 

Can you recommend and stores for FX1 accessories in Bangkok that sell high quality equipment cheap?

Not sure about quality items for the FX1 but Panthip Plaza and in that area is a big tech market. But they may just have computer hardware and software...

sony fx1 pp1 v. pp4 + ligth meter
 

hello i just got a fx1 please excuse the immature question.
i want to shot film like ill like to use my ligth meter as well.
i will use 24fps. should i use pp1 or pp4 ? pp1 is hdv format.
is pp4 hdv format as well?
ill will use final cut 4.5 hd after.whats the best pp option.
plus can i rellied in my ligth meter? there is no asa? what do i use as iso
please help
marco

DSE: a fx1 and gearshift ?
 

could i use gearshift on CF24 .m2t files ? will it look better than not using it? ****final output to be SD not film or HD*****

D-Tap power from FX1?
 

Does anyone know how to use FX1 as a power source for anything that has D-Tap connector?