The diagonal line is NOT a shadow - it is a reflection which is not apparent on the Z1 screen which is much less reflective. As detailed in the photo descriptions on Flickr, they are both in direct light hazy sunshine. In the first test both screens are set at default mid brightness, in the second test the Z7 LCD is increased to maximum brightness.

Can I take it that you think the Z1's screen is better in bright sunlight than the Z7's, though not as sharp?

Better outdoors period. However much sharper the Z7 is, if I can't make out the subject the extra resolution is useless.

Wow . . am I glad to hear this. I thought I was the only one that was treated that way over there. Now I know why I pretty much left. Great to read ya'all :o)

For now just commenting on this one. I think the DOF is quite narrow on this lens. I'm an old time Nikon FM2 guy and the one thing I noticed right off on this lens is that the DOF is tight on the close ups reminding me of my zooms on the old 200mm lens. Thus, when I zoom with the lens close in, I always keep my hand on the focus ring and the little finger on the iris just in case AND because of both the light change AND the tight DOF.

We do the same as you. Problem only exists in very low light when lots of dark areas fill a good portion of the frame. Easy fix. 1. try to keep the lens more wide/infinity and move in closer. 2. make sure the back focus is set properly (we missed this even though it's on like page 4 or 6 in the manual). 3. check to see that the macro setting is proper to avoid the lens trying to focus on a fly's leg. 4. run manual where possible on either focus or iris or both. 5. avoid moving the camera around a lot in very low light. REMEMBER: Even a 35mm in these conditions with auto anything has a terrible time and makes for some interesting blurrs.

Sounds idioic right? Especially 4.? We found that if the iris is manual the focus is less likely to hunt and chase for some reason. We found that infinity and move the camera in watching the LCD screen flipped over and up (looking down on the LCD) we can keep the focus issues to a minimum (if any).

If others have found a better system, love to hear it; otherwise, I'll take this one small tiny "bad" with all the "good" we have gotten with this camera since switching from a Panny HVX200A :o)

I would disagree with this statement since we do over 150 videos every year and about 25 to 30% are weddings and we just put the HVR-Z7U into service in late July without a hitch other than "some" focus issues. If in fact you have an EX1 as stated, then the "rolling shutter" issue must have precluded you from being able to use that camera for weddings beyond the shadow of a doubt because we know, it happened like crazy on the EX1 we tried; however, it did not happen like that with the Z7U and thus I would say that . . .

"The Z7U is a great camera; for weddings; for events; for run and gun; for broadcast; for . . . geez, just anything. But, make sure your crew are pros because it is a professional camera . . I know, because after years of using fixed lens cameras when I was formerly a removable lens cinematographer, I had forgotten about backfocus!" Dr Dimento :o)

We use Z7 a lot for events, weddings basically live stuff. The auto focus is a bit rubbish so we have stop using it completing. You may wish to try and use manual focus combined with the "peaking" setting to help get it sharp. With a bit of practice (and maybe a bit of an investment on a follow focus thingy) you might start to like the Z7

this and many other reasons, like rolling shutter every time someone flashed . . which is like very 20 to 30 seconds at a wedding . . were our primary reasons for selling off both of your Z7's and going back to solid, reliable, wonderful, Canon XHA1s's