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September 30th, 2009, 07:03 AM | #16 |
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Don, I do too, JUST to see what's going on in my DEEP greys AND to give myself a bit of "visual headroom" with blown out whites. I thought that was MY little secret. Again though, this is something one should only attempt on a CRT viewfinder. Other than the inevitable fatigue of having a high contrast black and white TV 2" from your eye (who thought THAT was a good idea?!?!?), I sure miss CRT 'finders for just plain old KNOWING what my exposure was. LCDs give long runtimes but they pale in comparison to the usefulness of a good CRT 'finder.
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September 30th, 2009, 08:32 AM | #17 | |
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September 30th, 2009, 09:26 AM | #18 | |
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The menu on zebra will set at what level zebra begins to appear: in IRE - 70 - 75, is highlight on caucasian skin tone, 100 is absolute white. People use zebra differently, depending on their comfort level/work flow. The actual exposure using zebra is controlled by opening or closing the iris to ensure that the zebra pattern is appearing ONLY at the appropriate places, given your zebra setting (again, highlights on skin IF zebra is set around 70 or 75, brightest white in the scene if zebra is set to 100).
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September 30th, 2009, 11:03 AM | #19 | |
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September 30th, 2009, 11:38 AM | #20 | |
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Since you're getting the right stuff indoors on the monitor you SHOULD be getting good stuff outdoors so it really sound more like a WB thing than anything else.
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What do I know? I'm just a video-O-grafer. Don |
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September 30th, 2009, 12:39 PM | #21 |
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We will see, i just took it to the wild outdoors, sunny outside and shot many terrain features and landscapes using all manual settings. I am going to hook her up here in a minute and if you see that there is a new classified ad in the private classified sections you know what happened... Don, not sure if I meant out of focus or just complete lack of detail from being overexposed!
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September 30th, 2009, 12:57 PM | #22 |
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OK, no new posts on the classifieds yet, looks like full manual is the way to go, just have to learn to fine focus better when I zoomed into a shooting target at 56 yards the target was not real clear, had the peaking turned up and it looked in focus but when I played it back it looked out a little bit. Maybe I am too used to the clarity and sharpness of HD and can't get it out of my head and have too high of expectations for the 390. Thanks for everyone's help!
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September 30th, 2009, 02:14 PM | #23 |
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THAT is indicative of a back focus issue. I'm hesitant to TALK anyone through the back focus procedure as it is easy to make things worse. Anyone braver than I want to explain the procedure or is there a good link on here that explains how to do it on a MANUAL lens?
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September 30th, 2009, 02:24 PM | #24 |
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There should be a section in the manual for that, I think it's called focal flange correction..
It shows how to set backfocus if I remember correctly.. |
September 30th, 2009, 02:28 PM | #25 | |
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September 30th, 2009, 02:58 PM | #26 |
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I did my focal flange corrections when I first got the lens, maybe I need to try it again and see if it moved. Thanks
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September 30th, 2009, 03:34 PM | #27 |
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Ok, the ABSOLUTE KEY to doing a flange focal distance correction is to ensure the iris is as wide open as absolutely possible. Use Neutral Density and/or shutter speed to get the lens WIDE open, giving you the shallowest possible depth of field. Setting FF distance with an aperture of f8 is like spitting in a rainstorm.
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September 30th, 2009, 04:31 PM | #28 | |
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Especially with a lens that's a bit older sometimes the threads wear just enough to warrant check BF often, like everytime you pull the camera out to use it. Sometimes it's out just enough that you really can't see it in the VF but when you put the footage on a monitor, you go Ooops! Damn, I thought it was in focus. Been there said that!
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September 30th, 2009, 09:15 PM | #29 |
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I followed the directions in the manual to do my Focal Flange Corrections (back focus) and it told me to hold the chart 10 feet from camera so that is what I did, but now I read on video university that the chart needs to be a minimum or 75 feet from the camera, could this be part of my problem? It is too dark outside to try it now that is why I am asking instead of trying.
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October 1st, 2009, 03:14 PM | #30 |
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The difficulty is that the chart needs to be far enough away so that you can set up flange focal BUT close enough so that you can tell if the lines are in focus. I probably use my chart at between 15 & 20 feet because any further away, I just can't see the detail enough in wide angle. (My chart is the one that came with my lens so it's only letter sized - I haven't sprung for a large one yet as with my 1/3" chips in MY camera, getting it close enough, really is good enough).
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