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I love my Sony wide angle lense. One thing a lot of people don't realize is that Sony makes a lense hood especially for this lense: the LSF-S58. It is bayonet mount and works over the screw in Sony Wide angle lense. It looks just like the stock lense hood only bigger. I have one and really like it. Check it out here:
http://www.discountcell.com/cellular...-S58,1c,pr.htm |
Thanks Laurence,
The S58 lens hood actually came with my 170, however I don't have a clue what its means when they say in the description in the link, "The Lens Hood also serves as an excellent viewfinder and framing device". huh??? I'm played around some today with the WA and I am really starting to like it - it just takes some getting used to - and even with a 970 battery on the back, it is HEAVY! |
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Thanks! |
Dave,
thats exactly the one you need - I took it off and checked for you to make sure. |
Yes, I have the VCL-HG0758 and the LSF-S58 lense hood completely covers and protects it. It is a tight enough fit that it really doesn't act as much of a sun shade, but it's just so darned practical that I don't even care. I use it 100% of the time. I also want to say that I have no problem zooming in with this lense. Focus is good throughout the range.
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That LSF-S58 looks quite good, and I wish my personal camera (PDX10) also had one that could be used with WA lenses and actually shade.
IMO everyone should get that shade AND the Flare Buster. When I was at B&H I couldn't find anyone to understand what I needed when I described what the Flare Buster was. The problem was I didn't remember the name. They showed me several shades, but all were too large and heavy for the PDX10. Carlos |
Pixelation with Sony Wide Angle?
I shot video of our Pastor during his sermon yesterday for the second week to get in more practice with my 170. I used the Sony wide angle on it for the first time standing about 30-40 feet back from the pulpit and zoom through was between 60-80%.
Only potential problem I see is that after capturing the video, I see a lot of pixelation in the picture on my monitor. I didn't notice any of this from what I shot with the original lens last week and I thought you could pretty much zoom completely through with the Sony WA without much quality loss. Could it possibly be anything else? I haven't changed any settings in camera that I remember, and I'm using Vegas with Magic Bullet editors to edit on. The wide angle is the only thing I can think of, and if it is, I'm dissapointed because I really like using it much better than with the standard lens. |
The wide angle adaptor is an optical device and can't cause "pixellation." If there's a zoom-through problem it would be out of focus (blurry) or maybe distorted (straight lines being curved). I have the Sony wide angle adaptor for my VX-2000 and have used it a lot with the full zoom range. Have never noticed a problem like this. I'd have a look at your editing software. Or if you're seeing big blocks, like a mosaic effect, that's a symptom of bad tape, dirty heads, or a head alignment problem.
You weren't shooting 16:9 perhaps, were you? That can produce a pretty ragged picture on PD-170... |
Boyd,
It looks like fairly big "blocks" like you said. May be a bad tape even though it was brand new. The 170's brand new so it shouldn't be a head alignment issue. I haven't had any past issues with Vegas either so I guess I'll shoot with a new tape and see. |
First...thanks for the information on the LSF-S58. I was wondering what that was for (came stock with the 170). Took me a few to figure out that it is actually two pieces that have to be seperated in order to install it.
Second...my WA does not hold focus when I zoom with the rocker arm located above the tape deck on the camera. It does hold focus when using the zoom controller on the handle. The former zooms much quicker than the latter. So obviously the solution is to just zoom slower. But....I was hoping there may be a setting or an adjustment I could make to solve that problem as most of the time when I zoom I want to do it in a hurry. I know it's a shot in the dark, as someone on this thread has already mentioned you're putting glass in front of glass, but I'm hoping there may be some hidden knowledge. |
That makes no sense (the action, not you). The same lens is being operated by the same signals. What you describe is controlled by the Back focus adjustment on the camera, an adjustment that is not accessible to the user.
If you set the focus at the full zoomed out position (the only position at which you should focus in this case), the lens should stay in focus across the zoom range. The only effect the WA adapter will make, regardless of brand, is to slightly soften the focus across the entire range of zoom positions. |
Hi Mike,
First of all ...amature alert here...that would be me, so all I can do is describe what happens when I zoom. Up until reading these posts I had no idea the lens should stay focused all the way across the zoom. Since reading this thread and your recent post I have been experimenting with zooming on a tripod...no difference....and cleaning the WA and the built in lens. Still the same. Loss of focus about mid way through the zoom. What seems odd and I can't confirm that this is absolute, but after zooming all the way in...when I zoom back out it seems to stay in focus ....or at least looks better. BTW this is with both the WA and the built in. You think it's possible I got some bad glass? Wouldn't make a difference now as I'm out of warranty. Like I say I thought this was normal behaviour. Who knew it was supposed to stay focused? (Just now getting the time to get to know this camera after little over a year of owning it.) Thanks for taking the time to respond. |
OK, terminology mixup here.
You focus the lens at maximum zoom (narrowest field of view). It will then stay in focus as you zom towards the minimum zoom, (widest field of view). All lens designs 'breath' to some extent. That is, their focus does shift a little bit as you zoom the lens. But not to a great extent. |
Wide Angle Adapter for PD-170
I am almost ready to purchase my 170, when they are back in stock at B&H. I am interested in the wide angle adapter. Is this for adding a wide angle lens? Or will it adjust the 12X lens that is incorporated to a wide spec? Any ideas, none of the information I can find is that forth coming.
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Hi Devin. On B&H's website, click on the "Item Includes" tab on the PD-170 page and you'll see it lists the VCL-HG0758 Wide Angle Adapter. This is a screw-in wide angle adaptor which is added to the front of the builtin lens. It's a .7x adaptor, so that means it makes the lens' existing focal length 70% of what it would be normally. So, for an easy example, if you zoomed the lens to its full-wide position of 6mm the adaptor would make it behave like a 4.2mm lens (6.0mm x 0.70 = 4.2mm).
I have one of these lenses for my VX-2000 and it produces a very nice image with little noticeable distortion or softness. The only downside is that it doesn't have filter threads on the front. Here's some more info on the adaptor lens from B&H's website: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...ughType=search |
If you want a good wide angle buy yourself the bayonet mount Century Optics .65 lens.. I have one and it's great, if you want bigger, I own a Extreme Fish Eye from Century and that lens is just crazy..
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I can vouch for the Century 0.65x wide-angle converter, and once you've used a bayonet, who would go back to screw threads? Pentax realised this back in 1974, and here we are, still faffing about with plastic threads.
The Century is beautifully made, heavy, expensive, doesn't vignette the image and has excellent anti-reflection coating. The only thing I'd say is that for the price (and the power) I think it should barrel distort less. tom. |
So would you say the Century 0.65X is better or at least as good (optically) as the Sony Wide Angle lens?
I really really hate the screw on design of this lens and I am always afraid I am going to strip the threads especially when I am trying to get it on in a hurry. |
Optically (apart from the barrel distortion as I've said) the Century 0.65x lens was the best of a group test of wide-angle converters that I carried out. The Sony wasn't included in the test, but my guess is that although the Century has a bayonet that enables rapid fit and removal, the optical qualities are such that you would be happy to leave it in place all the time.
I really really hate the screw thread as well. Never sure when it's going to drop off as you unscrew it, the 4:3 hood is never perfectly aligned (depends how tightly you screw the lens in place) and of course there's always the fear of cross-threading. The latter means you take more time, and very often when you suddenly need a wider view, that's exactly what you don't have. tom. |
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Extreme Fish Eye .65 Wide Angle 2x Tele-Photo Convertor 16:9 Ratio Convertor which I will probably sell since I don't really do anything in widescreen.. |
Sony .7X "High Grade" wide. ???
Greeting from a new member
Hope I have this posted in the right place. I'm interested in comments on the Sony "High Grade" .7X adapter for use on an HC90. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...ist&sku=250110 I might "need" this adapter when I do walking tours on trails. I like the idea of Ron Dexters low POV mount and thought that maybe a 'wide' would help with the overall effect. I.e. I want to get a dog's eye view of a trail: http://www.rondexter.com/stop_motion...ow_pov_rig.htm Thanks for any help (and or re-direction to the correct post forum). JohnG |
Well the screw on design of the Sony wide angle lense is inconvenient if you take it off. I never do though. Sony also makes a hood just like the factory one only larger called the LSF-S58 for about $50 that fits right over the screw in Sony lense using the bayonet mount. If you're like me and leave the wide angle lense on constantly, it's really a convenient setup.
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Getting back to the original question... regardless of the optical quality, the standard version of the PD-170 includes the Sony wide angle lens, so if you're buying one just be aware of this:
http://bssc.sel.sony.com/Broadcastan...sp=11&id=71949 Quote:
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Wide Angle Lense for Sony VX2000
Hey Folks,
I need some advice on a good wide angle lense for a good price. I will be using it to shoot various things but especially working accident scenes for training and development purposes. Thanks for your help. Joe |
This has been pretty thoroughly covered here, as well as other threads if you do a search
http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=47930 Anything which works on the PD-170 will also work on the VX-2000 |
Thanks Boyd that is what I needed to know. Have a good one.
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PD-170 Wide or Standard Lens
Hey All..
This may be a dumb question.. But I figure no question is dumb.. Regarding the PD-170 with it's standard lens and the Sony Wide Lens adapter it comes with. Is there any reason why I shouldn't just keep the wide lens on it 24x7? Do I lose anything by using the wide lens over the standard lens? If so, what are the pro's and con's to using the wide all the time? Thanks |
I know that some people do leave the wide lenses on all the time. I have that Sony wide lens for my VX-2000 and the image does seem very nice. However, any glass that you add in front of the builtin lens has to degrade the image somewhat. I think it will be more of an issue when you're shooting towards a light source because of internal reflections. Of course it's also big and heavy. Personally, I'd only put it on when you need it.
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I leave my wide angle lens on pretty much all the time. It really makes sense to do this if your main thing is run and gun work. The stock lense simply isn't wide enough for this type of work. Not only can you get more in the shot, but handheld camera work is smoothed out as well. Think of this: if you are on a film set, walls are missing and you can get away from the action a little and still frame the shot. The audio boom guy will get the mic in close in spite of how far back the camera is. In a run and gun situation, there isn't room to get far enough back to frame a shot, and even if you could, you'd be to far away to get decent audio with the camera mic.
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When I first started using the pd170 I kept the WA lens on all the time until I recorded an event and the focus looked soft when optically zoomed all the way in. So I stopped zooming in all the way to stop this and zoomed in only three quaters. Now when I do an event that will have full zoom I keep the WA lens off and the focus is perfect. In short I only use the WA lens when necessary otherwise I feel it compromises the zoom shot. It might compromise other aspects of the video as well.
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All the replies raise valid points and all of them are true of course. The Panasonic DVX100 saw Sony's 'mistake' in having a lens with not much wide-angle coverage, and their zoom starts a lot wider.
I'm firmly of the opinion that having any extra glass (including filters) in front of your Sony zoom degrades the image, albeit only slightly. But if you need an anamorphic or you need more telephoto, then there's no way around this, you must shoot through more glass. You'll also notice Pat that the 170's wide-angle adapter exagerates the barrel distortion that's inherrent in the Sony 12x zoom. This won't be noticeable with a lot of subjects, but horizons, buildings, telegraph poles will all show it up. This is one of the downsides in my view. tom. |
Hey all thanks for your replies..
This PD-170 in question is mainly used for weddings as the 1st camera up near the B&G while the PD-150 without any lenses is used for the back of the church/venue on the B&G. I also have a Century .65x Wide Angle for the camera as well. I have used it on the PD-150 before I thought that the full zoom looked a bit funny and soft with that on. However shooting with the DV Sunshade and UV-410 4x4 glass filter I wasn't sure if it was the lens or the filter that caused this.. Now on the 170 with the Sony wide I don't notice it as much as I do with the century but I'm glad it's not just me when it comes to 100% pefect focus with these wide angles.. So in your professional opinions shooting weddings and specifically close up since this camera is usually at the front of the action it should be ok with the Wide and just try to avoid longer zooms with it? I guess my only gripe with the 170 WA is the sunhood that comes with it and that you have to take it apart in 3 pieces to remove the lens and put the sunhood back together again or just don't use it at all.. Which brings up another question.. How many shoot with the hood and/or without the hood? These are all pretty basic questions probably, but a little background I have spent over 6 years in editing and just started within the last year doing producing and camera work.. So forgive my ignorance.. |
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I guess it's hard to have your cake and eat it to... |
LOL! As long as stuff costs money it's will always be hard to have your cake and eat it too..
Anyways, for shows such as a seminar I have had real good success with the Century 2x Teleconvertor lens. Although you need to zoom at least halfway in order to use it, but I find it adds some distance to your zoom and at full zooms looks really good.. I guess if I taped more seminars than I do I would probably look atleast at the DSR-250 or 500, not having used those myself I could only assume quality and possible lens attachments should or would offer more of a selection and better quality? |
I shoot a lot of weddings with my two VX2000s. Like you Pat the one at the back / off to the side is always devoid of any lens attachments, whereas the one that's under my control is the one that (sometimes) has to be fitted with a wide-angle converter.
I say sometimes because if I can get away without using the 0.5x wide-angle, I will. With it in place I'm reduced to having a 7.5x zoom (3 mm to 23 mm), and suddeny you can't get big, bold closeups of the ring being fitted, the tear in her mother's eye and so on. But as I say - there are times when the situation is so cramped there really is no alternative, and it's at times like these that the VX/PD focal range is not ideal. Why the reduction from a 12x zoom to a 7.5x zoom? Because I insist on having no barrel distortion and consequently use a single element aspheric. This means the church pillars remain straight and true and the registry office ceiling remains unbowed. People satand upright rather than bending outwards in the middle. I've looked long and hard at the FX1/Z1 as a replacement, but as a wedding and events photographer my need is for the telephoto end to be good, fast and powerful. I can always add a wide-angle when needs be, but I don't want to be having to carry a wide and a tele converter. The 12x zoom of the FX1 is from semi-wide to so-so tele. The DVX100 is even worse - the telephoto peters out at 45 mm (72 mm on the VX) so it's not for me. For any sort of differential focus control you need long focal lengths (VX) and fast lenses (VX). And an excellent Steadyshot. |
I leave it on 24/7. Perhaps I should start a new thread but... my PD-170 wide lens seems to have a problem. There's a small spec that keeps re-appearing in the same spot and I believe it's caused by a very shallow dent or something. I can clean it off and it will go away but it keeps re-appearing when I go outside and the lens picks up stuff in the air. Anyway I understand this little tiny spec is not normal and my question is this... is the only cure to purchase a new one or is there some lens maintenance method or kit that can bring it back to life?
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never mind, bought a new one.
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It sounds as if there was some foreign matter between the 3 elements of the w'angle converter you had Craig - or maybe as you say a damage to one of the lens element surfaces. I had tiny specks inside two Cavision 0.5x lenses and returned them both.
When you go outside (as you mention) you camera is much more likely to be using smaller apertures, and these bring the foreign matter into sharper perspective simply because of the huge depth of field. This then shadows the image and you get the specks. Just 2 days ago on TV there were many scenes (shot in a re-enactment of a 1960s holiday camp) where a creepy-crawly was happily walking all over the front element of the camera. The way it appeared and disappeared showed the editing order quite well. tom. |
Thanks Tom, no it wouldn't be between anything - it keeps showing up on the outside surface of the lens. I'll can clean it away but in no time it seems to collect debris again in that same tiny spot. Must be a dent.
I think I'm out $300 cookies on this one. |
You might try and clean the surface of the lens with something that will drain off the static charge if there is any. Have you looked at the surface with a magnifier to see what might be there?
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