OK, let me get a few things straight:

[Arbel Rom]

Originally Posted by Perrone Ford

Arbel,

I just realized we latched on to only 1 of your 3 questions. Let me answer the others:

Firstly, no, there is no way to calibrate the LCD screen to match the camera. It's just there as a rough guide, and don't trust it for anything more than that. I see this bite more camera owners in the butt than anything else. Especially on the DSLRs. I wish they'd take the silly thing OFF the cameras or only enable them for playback.

Secondly, the lens seems to be pretty sharp around F5.6-F8. Not too bad at F4 or F11. Outside of that, well...

This is another reason I am moving to the DSLRs with primes for interviews. I want to be able to have the interviewee sharp, but while still having some shallow DOF in a lot of cases. Or at least have the choice. By the time I get the EX1 down into the F5.6-F8 range, not only is it quite bright for them, but I am seeing half a mile behind them.

Thanks for the all the answers!
Well, as for the DOF goes - I agree. Whenever I can, I just move as far as I can from the subject and zoon in - so I have a shalow DOF.
But what sound do you get from the DSLR's? Is is good enough for professional interviews?
And regrading the LCD screen, your reply means that I need to have a calibrated monitor around at all times?

[Perrone Ford]

[quote=Arbel Rom;1560244]
Well, as for the DOF goes - I agree. Whenever I can, I just move as far as I can from the subject and zoon in - so I have a shalow DOF.

Originally Posted by Arbel Rom

There are numerous problems with this. First, if you zoom in, you are no longer at F1.9 wide open. You are at F2.8 or thereabouts. Second, zooming in, also makes any camera shake more visible. TERRIBLE if you are outdoors. Also terrible if you are on a wooden floor and anyone else is around. Third, it means you need to have an excellent tripod, because an inexpensive one will transmit every vibration right to the lens.

Originally Posted by Arbel Rom

But what sound do you get from the DSLR's? Is is good enough for professional interviews?

No. But I record separate sound on the EX1 anyway, so that's no big deal to me.

Originally Posted by Arbel Rom

And regrading the LCD screen, your reply means that I need to have a calibrated monitor around at all times?

Why? What will a calibrated monitor tell you that the scopes won't? What are you trying to do? All you need to know in the field is that you are neither overexposing, or underexposing, and that the colors are reasonably accurate. Anything else can be handled later unless you are going live to broadcast. If you are going live to broadcast, then having a calibrated monitor on-set should be standard procedure.

[Andrew Stone]

I was poking around the net this morning and found a germane article by our friend Adam Wilt on many of the topics being discussed here. I will save editorializing for now. The link is below:

ProVideo Coalition.com: Camera Log by Adam Wilt | Founder | Pro Cameras, HDV Camera, HD Camera, Sony, Panasonic, JVC, RED, Video Camera Reviews

[David Heath]

Originally Posted by Arbel Rom

Well, as for the DOF goes - I agree. Whenever I can, I just move as far as I can from the subject and zoon in - so I have a shalow DOF.

I know why you're saying that, but in reality it's a different situation. You may have achieved a defocused background, but have also totally changed the perspective. Relative to somebody sitting at their desk, you are now not seeing anyone at desk - just maybe someone with a few books in a bookcase behind.

Normally when differing dofs are talked about, it's assuming the same lens angle of view. So the amount you see in the background doesn't change - just gets more or less defocussed.

[Leonard Levy]

"Secondly, the lens seems to be pretty sharp around F5.6-F8. Not too bad at F4 or F11. Outside of that, well..."

I'm quite surprised to see Perrone say that. My experience and many others is that the EX-1 and EX-3 lenses suffer from serious diffraction issues at f stops more closed than f 6.8. I try to never shoot at f8 or beyond because it gets progressively softer.

That said I find it perfectly acceptable wide open in most cases And I shoot that way often. It is probably best around f4- 5.6 but I've never tested.

Re exposure : I didn't read this entire thread so maybe this is irrelevant, but if you are trying to set exposure using a meter on a video camera you are wasting your time. its not linear. Learn to use your zebras or better yet get a monitor with a waveform. The histogram can be useful, but the best thing is to use zebras and a waveform.

Lenny Levy

[Daniel Doherty]

Originally Posted by Perrone Ford

No, that's half a stop. So I either open the iris half a stop, or push more light.

Thanks for your help Perrone.

[Perrone Ford]

Originally Posted by Leonard Levy

"Secondly, the lens seems to be pretty sharp around F5.6-F8. Not too bad at F4 or F11. Outside of that, well..."

I'm quite surprised to see Perrone say that. My experience and many others is that the EX-1 and EX-3 lenses suffer from serious diffraction issues at f stops more closed than f 6.8. I try to never shoot at f8 or beyond because it gets progressively softer.

That said I find it perfectly acceptable wide open in most cases And I shoot that way often. It is probably best around f4- 5.6 but I've never tested.

Re exposure : I didn't read this entire thread so maybe this is irrelevant, but if you are trying to set exposure using a meter on a video camera you are wasting your time. its not linear. Learn to use your zebras or better yet get a monitor with a waveform. The histogram can be useful, but the best thing is to use zebras and a waveform.

Lenny Levy

I haven't been thrilled with the camera wide open, but you guys are probaby right on the iris being more stopped down. I seemed to remember it was best "in the middle" and was wrong on the range. Been a while since I really stopped down.

[Andrew Stone]

Hi Perrone,

A couple of questions.

Where can you get a $14 adapter that allows one to use Nikon lens on Canon? The ones sold locally I have been told are around $200 dollars. All of my Nikon lens except one are the older prime variety with physical aperture rings. I have one very nice 17-35 AF-S Nikkor 2.8f which I would want to be one of my main operating lenses. Will the cheaper adapter you use work with this?

Second, question. Are there any practical limitations that your camera, the Canon T2i has over the D7 and the 5DmkII beyond size of the sensor and completely obvious stuff like that.

[Perrone Ford]

Originally Posted by Andrew Stone

Hi Perrone,

A couple of questions.

Where can you get a $14 adapter that allows one to use Nikon lens on Canon?

This is what I use

Nikon Lens to Canon EOS Camera Adapter Mount NEW - eBay (item 300453982574 end time Sep-07-10 08:52:28 PDT)

Originally Posted by Andrew Stone

I have one very nice 17-35 AF-S Nikkor 2.8f which I would want to be one of my main operating lenses. Will the cheaper adapter you use work with this?

Yes. Should work just fine. All my Nikon AF and MF glass works just fine.

Originally Posted by Andrew Stone

Second, question. Are there any practical limitations that your camera, the Canon T2i has over the D7 and the 5DmkII beyond size of the sensor and completely obvious stuff like that.

I think you mean the 7D. The T2i does not have the 1/3 stop ISO ranges which seem to be more noise free in the blacks (as compared to the 7D). The T2i only has 480p video out when an external monitor is attached. The T2i takes SDHC cards and not the more robust Compact Flash cards the other two cameras take. The build quality is not as good. That's about it in terms of video. Stills is another matter entirely.

I am VERY pleased with the T2i and I take it on every shoot now.

[Andrew Stone]

Hi Perrone,

Yes I did mean the 7D. You bought adapters for all your lenses or just a couple?

Thanks for all the info.

-Andrew

[Perrone Ford]

Originally Posted by Andrew Stone

Hi Perrone,

Yes I did mean the 7D. You bought adapters for all your lenses or just a couple?

Thanks for all the info.

-Andrew

I bought ONE adapter as a test because I was skeptical. I am no longer a skeptic.. :) I'll be buying one per lens very soon. Right now, I have to swap the adapter lens to lens. Only takes a couple seconds though.