MTB HelmetCam

[George Ellis]

I finally have it in my working configuration. I built a helmet cam for videoing mountain bike trails for a project I am working on.

I started with an Answer full-face helmet. I went with a full-face because it will be less likely to move around on my head with the cheek pads and full coverage. The regular "armadillo shell" style bicycle helmets tend to move around a bit. The headliner and cheek pads snap out for cleaning too.

I scavenged a Quick Release from a $19 Wal-Mart tripod. I had debated on buying a metal tripod, but then realized a plastic one was a better idea. In a crash, if the camera catches, I could be in real trouble. I went with a plastic and small QR and nylon bolts. The theory is that I have better points of failure that will break off before I "break". I also used nylon bolts as they worry me less around my head than metal ones. The tandnylonbolt pic shows the inside of the helmet with the T flange (threaded 1/4" - lock pins bent flat). On the outside, qrandpc7, you can see where I roughed up the finish with a Dremel (and missed once in left) and put PC7 Epoxy on. I shaped it initially with a piece of wax paper and stamping the QR assembly on. Later, testing revealed I did not have it right, so I built up more and shaped it with the Dremel.

I had to modify the HC3 Dbox from Bonehead Composites. The back section is not correct for the 100 series battery, so I cut it out with a diamond blade on the Dremel. You can see that in the indbox pic. While I used the foam in the kit, it does not cover all the metal parts. I am using cloth athletic tape to protect the camera from metal scratches. I also put it around the lens open edges because I got some chatter from the camera on the case on my first test. DSE uses Gaffer's tape. Both have the quality of leaving minimal residue. I went with the athletic tape because I think it is "softer".

The strap on a HC7 does not come off without cutting it off. I found that I can undo one side and fold it "just right" to get it to fit. That is the foldstrap pic. That is a good thing though. I still don't completely trust everything yet (just the engineer in me). I hook a mini bungie cord in the D ring on the strap and put the other end on chin strap ring on my helmet. It I get a mechanical failure, the camera should just swing from my jaw until I stop. Maybe.

The sock on the right side? Tie wrapped counterweight. That is 7 4oz lead sinkers I got at Bass Pro Shop.

I will have some new footage soon that I will post. My initial run with the camera was a little off. I had to rebuild the mount position as it pointed down too far (no horizon) and leaned to the left (did not compensate for the flex of the unit fully weighted.

[George Ellis]

One last pic, the Dbox with the QR plate and one of the threaded T flanges. I got those in the drawers of fasteners at The Home Depot.

[George Ellis]

Update - OK, this is 5 minutes of video, but from 13s to 2m36s, it is all from the 'head'

http://www.versatilemediasolutions.c...deo/FOL360.wmv

44MB d/l - 360x240 16:9 @ 1Mbps / Mac users, get Flip4Mac.

[Steve Young]

Looks nice but if you come off you could destroy the camera! Better off using what I use and have the camera in a padded backpack - http://www.dogcamsport.co.uk/Pro_dig...et_cameras.htm

[George Ellis]

Originally Posted by George Ellis

Update - OK, this is 5 minutes of video, but from 13s to 2m36s, it is all from the 'head'

http://www.versatilemediasolutions.c...deo/FOL360.wmv

44MB d/l - 360x240 16:9 @ 1Mbps / Mac users, get Flip4Mac.

Since edit is not available where I am:

http://www.georgeandlorrie.com/gallery/video/FOL360.wmv

This is the new link to the video from above.

[Mike Meier]

If you don't mind compromising on quality you can use a bullet cam instead and put your camcorder in a fanny pack.

Link: Helmet Camera, Professional Lipstick Camera, Wireless Video, and Ruggedized Wearable DVR Systems for Tactical and Action Sports Video Production