micheal,
i think the first thing you should get is a water level. second would be two manfrotto art 454 micro positioning plate. this would help reduce setup time. only setback is, you need to get a work shop to make another plate to mount it on to the sled - replacing the quick release thing.

ed

I think by "water level", Ed, you mean a spirit level...and I agree, it's a good think for stabilizer operators to get. Available at any hardware store, usually you have to buy an assembly with a plastic doohickey around it to hang on a line; simply break that open and liberate the little level inside (it's cylindrical, and make sure to get one with the two hash marks on it that indicate "center").

Your smartest move is to have two levels. Have one mounted on your monitor, just above or below (I like above) the faceplate of the monitor. The low-rent approach to attach it is velcro; high-end is a swivel mount that locks in place. The important thing is to be able to "true" it.

What this means is that you will take level #2 and place it either on the camera or on the mounting plate, somewhere that is exactly the same level as the camera itself. Then make sure that the level on the monitor is registering the same as this level (that's what "true'ing" is all about). Now you know that the level on your monitor is reading accurately.

And how much to refer to that level? Tricky question. The level only functions during linear moves, meaning that in periods of acceleration it will read inaccurately. In other words, if you were to make a sidewise move, the bubble would float around until you reached a constant speed, and then it would settle in and show you an accurate representation of your camera level.

Learning to interpret the feedback from the level is a tricky thing. A significant number of operators do not use levels (I'm talking bigtime guys here, too). I myself like it, but I am aware of when I can trust it and when to ignore it.

It's certainly helpful when one is making sure the rig is balanced right before a shot.

Good stuff thanks. I'm trying to figure out what I need to mount the monitor, John said that the back of the monitor needs to be flat so it can be mounted to the pod. How do these attach? Velcro? Screw on? The Markertek product I referenced put the battery right on the back of the monitor holding plate so I think it would block a flat attachment to the pod on the magiqcam. I'm just a little lost on what I need to get that monitor attached and
powered. I really appreciate your responses.

I want to be able to use the monitor in other environments to
so I don't want anything permanent.

Charles, your video reels are incredible, really incredible.

Michael,

I use a Delvcam 5.6" monitor on my Magiqcam. All I needed to do was apply some self sticking velcro to both the back of the monitor and to the mounting pod of the magiqcam. On my Delvcam I still wanted to be able to utilize the speaker system for use elsewhere so I was just carefull on how I placed the velcro. I used 2" wide velcro. But this will vary on what type of monitor you use.

Hope this has helped,
-Thomas

I'm going to get a cheapo AA powered LCD monitor from B&H for $200 when they get in stock. I can't imagine that for my purposes, the Panasonic would be any better.

I'm going to use Velcro to attach it to the pod. Velcro in big thick strips from the office store is the best way to temporarily attach things.

BTW, where is charles's site?

<<<-- Originally posted by Tony Hall : I'm going to get a cheapo AA powered LCD monitor from B&H for $200 when they get in stock. I can't imagine that for my purposes, the Panasonic would be any better.

I'm going to use Velcro to attach it to the pod. Velcro in big thick strips from the office store is the best way to temporarily attach things.

BTW, where is charles's site? -->>>

Tony,

Are you refering to a Citizen? I started out with one of those and quickly got my Delvcam. The Citizen just doesn't work well in brightly lit areas such as outdoors. or even indoors under bright lights.

Just my two cents.

-Thomas

Exactly what I looking for - Thanks.

Re Charles -

http://www.demoreelnetwork.com/chupap/index.shtml

Well, I'm looking at this one:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...=317231&is=REG

with a hood:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...=202787&is=REG

It takes AA batteries, so the back will be fairly flat and who care about using Canon or Panasonic batteries... just get some rechargable AA batteries. And of course it's 16:9 which is cool. I'm sure it will be Ok with a hood though.

I checked out that demo reel and Charles has filmed two of my favorite movie scenes! Good work.

Thanks gents!

OK Tony, so which two exactly...?

I'll take a guess--American History X and the destruction of the copier from Office Space?

p.s. Velcro is a Steadicam op's best friend; one of our venerable pioneers once said "I just want people to respect me as much as I respect Velcro".

<<<-- Originally posted by Charles Papert : I'll take a guess--American History X and the destruction of the copier from Office Space? -->>>

LOL, you guessed correct!

American History X rocks.

So why isn't Tony Kaye happy ? Or making anything new ?



I'm still waiting for my magiqcam... its been ... since start of July ... hope it isn't a problem with my particular rig.

July?? Have you had contact with them?

Tony Kaye...that's a whole other conversation. Maybe a google search will turn up the answers. Let's just say his sense of hype overwhelmed his filmmaking ability.

<<<-- Originally posted by Michael Best : July?? Have you had contact with them? -->>>It takes them about 8 weeks now and he lives in Singapore so it will probably take longer because of shipping.