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Steadicam or monopods ?
Anyone here using some sort of steadicam or monopods ? If so, what are your experiences, and which ones do you like ?
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Art-
I have't played with too many, but I have a Varizoom Flowpod under one of my GL2's and I am very happy with it. The monopod side is used about 90% of the time, but its great to have the flowpod on demand (it only takes about 5-10 seconds to switch) when you need it instead of switch cameras. I also use a DV Rig Pro, but this probably isnt what your going for. By the way, this thing works wonders as a shoulder mount, but dont plan on moving around with it! patrick |
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"I also use a DV Rig Pro, but this probably isnt what your going for. By the way, this thing works wonders as a shoulder mount, but dont plan on moving around with it!"
Patrick, why not. The footprint doesn't take up much more space than a monopod would. I use all tripod for lockdown shots, monopod when needed (for me usually during processionals for weddings), and DVRigPro for everything else as I get very stable handheld footage for filming plays and receptions. |
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Let me be more specific. Dont plan on getting the glidecam style footage with it. The system is not designed to be used while walking in the way that a glidecam or my flowpod is. That being said, the DV Rig Pro is perfect for run and gun situations. You can quickly (as quickly as you can get there) get stable footage. I wouldnt want to think about filming a wedding without this. |
Patrick, your point is noted and you are definitely right in that you won't get steadycam type footage. I have gotten decent flowing footage from it, but actually i get better flow like footage by shortening my Bogen monopod and using it like a steadicam. While not as good as a stadicam, with practice I have been able to get very good footage.
But as you said with a flowpod, you get the best of both worlds, a monpod and a glidecam. I haven't been able to try a flowpod yet. I have hard that it's triring on the arms because of the wieght, is this true? How do you generally use it, in combination with tripod, or do you use it for alot of run and gun stuff as well, using teh monopod portion mostly? Michael |
I worked with somebody else to make a flowpod like product, it is similar to a glidecam, except the post is a heavy duty boegn monopod. There are a couple other features as well. For the past couple weddings, I have shot completely with this unit, handheld and a tripod. I left my other stabilizers alone, and these two tools did everything I needed. I haven't used a flowpod so I cannot comment on how good the moving footage is, but with practice and this unit, I have gotten some ver good results (plus the costis half of a flowpod).
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Anyone using this thing specifically?
http://www.glidecam.com/product-2000-pro.php |
I used the steadicam flyer on location at a wedding after party a couple weeks ago. A few things to consider before you buy.
The bad.... 1.) Learning curve...... It took me about ten weeks of SOLID practice before I could make shots like you see in the movies. Learning to feel for the steadicams multiple sweet spots isn't easy. It reminds me of learning to ride a bike in a way. 2.) Set up time..... Weddings are run an gun and unpredictable, so there will be times you won't be able to set it up fast enough. 3.) Obtrusiveness.... Yes people stare...some good, some bad. Expect all reactions. 4.) To much contrast......The steadicam has to much color contrast making it stand out in public.(grey, black, red).....Im in the process of blacking out my rig as best I can(black pads, black gimble handle/ stage knobs, sand down and repaint arm beams black) 5.) Sled sucks........ It needs more mass and rails. DV cams are light....... watch out for that breeze around the corner. Operating outside on a windy day is very hard, so extra wieght is a must. 6.) One chance to get the shot......weddings are non repeatable events. Shots MUST be planned out to some extent. Now the good stuff..... 1.) Fluid...... Talk about silk...there is no pogoing in ANY of the photography(unlike the steadicam mini). Float the rig up and down stairs, for example, with precision. 2.) Boom range...... 30 inches of dolly destroying precision. Subjects can be tracked with more accuracy than a dolly. 3.) Pro apearance........ People loved it at an alltel convention I did. It fit right in with that type of job. 4.) Steadicam customer service...... The best.... Many thanks to Kyle Young. 5.) Portable........... Everything fits in one bag 6.) Built like a tank............ Indestructible 7.) Light........ I only weigh 180 and can use it for hours Good luck John |
As for the monopod.........good for a dynamic vignette, but not for the bread and butter of the main video. I would think a light weight, fast leveling, blacked out tripod with a seperate set of baby legs would be better and the best of both worlds.
John |
I use both. Actually I use the steadycam (home brew) and my assistant uses the monopod, but we have and use both on a typical wedding. I use the stabilizer a lot like a dolly in places where I couldn't lay track.
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I invested in the Fig Rig and it's done as well as any other stabilizer. And just like others it takes time to learn.
Cons- Difficult to hold and also operate your camera settings. Most situations require us to run the camera in auto while on the rig. Pros- the learning curve is less than other rigs it's very user friendly the camera can slide off the rig and mount right onto a bogen tripod head you can get great on the go footage with it it's very versatile and dutch rolls, booms, etc. are very managable It's just like other rigs and if you plan your shots and take time with setting them up they'll look great. I prefer the fig rig over others however because it's much more usable for unplanned shots and times when you have to stay with the subject in on the move situations. The value for the cost was extremely good in my opinion. Ben Lynn |
Manfrotto Monopod seems to be working just fine for me here!
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http://twodogfilms.com/temp/Image3.jpg Me revolving around the couple as they dance (un-processed image low rez image (saved it before I really figured out how to export stills from Vegas properly) - not CC'd or anything, but gives you the idea). Definitely something different, but works quite well for my style. |
Pretty good frame grab. The primary subjects are stationary enough I can tell it's an Army Medical Corps Captain just back from OIF or OEF, while the background is blurred indicating motion. His wife won't be pleased with the frame grab, but the color and composition look very nice.
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Hey Ben, would a remote for the camera help in this situation, I remember seeing a demo of the Fig Rig and he had a remote control mounted. I have a remote for my cam. I need to work on my run and gun and was thinking that the Fig Rig might work good. I've not really used anything other than hand held at this point for running. |
Yes, the Bogen remotes help considerably. The problem is that they don't have a controller to support iris control. So as you work with the rig it's tough to use the manual iris setting. The answer is to run it on auto iris which works well for 85% of the situations you encounter. The rest of the time you have to work to adjust the iris and just to what you can.
Overall it's an amazing rig that really adds a lot of value to a production. It's a very good investment and a great tool. You won't regret investing in it because it's very versatile. Just the fact that it adds some many mounting options for your mics and wireless systems makes it worth the money. Couple that with the fact that it allows you to get great handheld shots and it's well worth it. Ben |
I love the monopod. Very underappreciated tool. They're for close up work only though. We have a Steadicam JR too, and I'd say it's much easier to get a steady telephoto shot with it in the shoulder mount position. Monopods are also really good for getting shots in awkard angles and situations where there isn't a lot of room. On our last shoot i was able to get a really cool close up of an actor lying on his back on the floor with one. I put the foot of the monopod under his armpit and was able to zoom in right on his face. It was a fairly long take and I think it would have been impossible to get the shot handheld or with a tripod. Monopods are great for low angle shots too.
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I am currently looking at either a Monopod or the SteadyStick. Anyone have any experience with the SteadyStick?
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The steadystick looks quite expensive considering it is missing the one thing that makes shots more stable.
There is only one thing that makes shots stable. That thing is INERTIA. "But, how about this thing with gimbals?" No. The gimbals don't make the camera stable. They only help prevent transmission of shock from the operator's body. "There is this one with titanium bearings that...." No. "...a counterweighted arm..." No. "...hypereutectic pistons..." No. "...distributorless ignition..." No. There is only one...INERTIA. "To support that much weight, I need a rig that..." No. I am a couch potato and I can use my "rig" all day because it distributes the weight to the perfect position - to the GROUND. The answer to this amazing device is: First, I should explain how a stabilizer works. A stabilizer has three points of mass which are supported in the center. That's it. No. Don't go any further. That's all there is. Nobody believes me. If you make three points of mass seperated by distance and support it in the center, the object will remain stable. There is nothing more to a stabilizer than that. Three points of weight separated by distance and supported in the middle is all that any stabilizer does. There is no room for deviation. That is all that any mechanical system does. The only stabilizer with gyroscopes is a million-dollar rig that is mounted to a helicopter. So, what is my MIRACLE DEVICE? I use a monopod with counterweights. It is stable and can put all the weight of the rig to the ground. It is simple to construct. It is easy to learn. It does not require wearing a big vest that is hotter than a expletive-described hot thing on a hot Texas summer day. What are the downsides? It takes a few tries to remember not to kick the monopod during travelling shots. It is inexpensive. What? Inexpensive is a downside? Yes, because nobody will believe me that a counterweighted monopod can achieve stabile shots and can also be used on a day-long shoot without bursting the vertebrae of the operator. There is a more complicated explanation, but it is unnecessary. Imagine a way to make three points of mass on a monopod separated by distance. Hold the monopod in the center of the mass while moving and it is a stabilizer. Put the monopod up in the air and you get a stabilized high-angle shot. Retract the lower sections and you have a stabilized rig that you can run with. Any questions? Most people wouldn't even read past the statement that gimbals aren't necessary. |
If this is something you constructed, can you post a picture of your monopod? If you purchased it, what is it called?
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I don't have a web site set up yet, I know...I know...
Actually, I also don't want to post a picture because there are mistakes that I made and want to correct. I am going to rebuild my setup once I get my 35mm lens adapter with 8" LCD setup working. Here is what I did: I bought a bogen monopod with a quick-release plate. I duct-taped a lead scuba weight (about 2 pounds) to the bottom of the first section on the monopod. This worked for one dimension. The camera would stay upright and glide along without tipping and vibrations from my hand were reasonably dampened. The camera was one point of mass and the weight the other. I held the monopod at the center of these two masses. The problem with this setup was that the camera was not stabilized horizontally and would wag side-to-side like a dog's tail while I was moving at all. Actually, the image wagged and the monopod rotated in response to vibrations/movements. To fix this problem, I turned the one weight on the bottom of the monopod shaft into a crossbar with weights on the end. I made it about 24" long out of wood and it clamps onto the monopod with bolts that tighten a groove cut in the wood. The groove grips the monopod. If you can't picture it yet, picture a big "t" shape with the cross of the "t" being about 18" below the camera. I have been shooting like this for years and it works. Regardless, there is a fundamental problem with the design. It is too easy to bump the stabilizer bar and it takes patience to learn how to shoot around the annoyance. Here is how to get the three points of mass: Get a monopod and a rod support system or a flat piece of aluminum with the right holes drilled to hold it to the quick-release plate and the camera. This gives you a camera "sled" that can mount to the monopod. Now, using batteries, a monitor, microphones, steel weights, etc. - put a weight at the front of the camera and one at the rear. The further these points of mass are from each other - the better the stabilization. If the camera battery is heavy enough, it may serve as a point of weight. A camera sled/support with weight on both ends will stabilize in one axis. For the other axis, the camera system is one side and a weight on the bottom of the first section of the monopod is the second. I plan to use a 12V battery that will power my LCD. The system I plan to use is this: 35mm lens and LCD as the forward mass point, camera, then battery mounted behind the camera. This makes two points of mass. A lead-acid battery attached to the bottom of the top monopod section (just below the grip) will act as the third point of mass that takes care of the second axis. I also plan to put a shoulder pad on the "sled" so I can remove the monopod and work as a shoulder-mount camera. This way, I have a shoulder-cam and a stabilized monopod that doesn't have a crossbar to get in the way. Any questions? It is really quite simple, and it works. Anyone can figure it out if they accept the fact that all stabilizers only use three points of mass to dampen movements. |
Aviator Steadicam rig
I'll post my 2cents here. I am a true steadicam operator whom films alot of weddings, primarily weddings.
(check our demo footage www.visualmasterpiece.com ) I use the Aviator rig from varizoom with 7" LCD (www.varizoom.com); this is an awesome set up, there's nothing better. I use it in all of the weddings that we do and it gives us an amazing cinematic look to our wedding films. This past weekend I was filming a catholic wedding and I was wearing the rig on-stage for the entire ceremony walking back and forth getting all kinds of shots including extreme close-ups thanks to the varizoom lanc remote that I have mounted to the gimble/handle of my rig. There are (in my opinion) more benifits to owning this rig than there are (drawbacks - and there are some); Obviously some drawbacks are set-up time and the ability to be totally spontaious in the moment with different shots. And with this rig I have several things to unmount off of my body before I can get in the car and drive away to the reception. But the stable shots I can get are unreal, I can use it 8-9hrs straight without any strain on my body. It works just as good as a solid tripod even when zoomed in (no floating/shaking shots), and basically I can sprint up and down stairs, walk for blocks and the footage is awesome. This is a serious tool and worth every penny. Check it out. |
Michael, first I would like to say that I would love to have a guy with this rig at any of my shoots. I believe your advise, so I am not arguing with you.
But, I don't see how you can say that wearing that rig for 8-9 hours is not taxing. Just the heat alone could put someone down in the summer. Wearing a vest like that, as I recall, is like having a winter coat on. Also, the weight is distributed, but it is still weight. There is another matter and that is the cost. $4500 is a lot of money for a wedding videographer. The Hawaii market is very competetive and it can be difficult for some to justify that sort of cost for $1500 weddings. Your site does not seem to include your prices. Perhaps your market can bear higher rates? If there is one thing the monopod can do that I could never do without, it would be the ability to go high-angle in less than a second. I can't count how many times a tall person has gotten into my shot. I once did a wedding with 12 bridesmaids and groomsmen on each side. It was in a small church. The church, and therefore the bridal party, was primarily of Samoan ethnicity. Samoan men are not known for their slight stature. The groom was a former football player and the groomsmen were his former teammates. They were crammed in shoulder-to-shoulder. I needed to shoot past them to see the bride's face. Without the ability to go high-angle quickly, I would have no shot except for the back of a bunch of Samoan football players heads. Without the monopod, I would have panicked. Most of the time, I shoot from the monopod planted. With it stationary, I have both hands free. I suspect you have both hands free all the time and that would be a real benefit. I have thought of putting a lanc controller at the center of gravity of my monopod for that reason. I still don't know if I could hold the weight and use the controller simultaneously. |
If I was using anything other than an XL2, rather if I were using a smaller, lighter camera there would really be no need for this type of rig. It all depends I guess on the type of camera. If I were using say a GL2 or PD170, I would absolutly buy a FlowPod (also varizoom) for each camera. Our cameras with batteries, lenses, wide-angle adapters and all weigh in at 12.5 lbs. That's just too heavy for steadicam handheald shots no matter how you look at it. So If I am using these cameras (or other compaired shoulder cams), and I want to get these types of shots, I can justify the cost (and everything else that comes with it) in order to get the creative shots that I want. And no our market is no different than yours, I just want to stand out from the crowd and target a higher market.
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I hear what you say about weight. I still think I would use a monopod with the XL2. Regardless, I am going to try to make a belt-mounted support that I can use to put the monopod foot in while I am moving around or getting high-angle shots. Holding up 10-15 pounds of weight over one's head would be tiresome after only a minute or two. Sometimes, I need to shoot high-angle for 10-20 minutes.
I looked at the flowpod, and it is missing a critical piece. It has no crossbar to put weight out perpendicular to the support shaft. The camera at the top of the shaft is one point of weight and the bottom of the pod seems to be another. This only covers one axis of movement. Something needs to go perpendicular to this to provide stabilization in the other axis. |
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Could you update us as to what you finally went with (and an update on your monopod mods). The picture referrenced in your earlier post no longer works... Thanks. |
We've used the glidecam 2000 quite a bit with our videos, if you're going to do any hand-held work you just can't do without one of these! I hate watching those videos where you can see every step the camera man took, but don't plan on using it alone during a ceremony as your forearm will kill you!
Eric Hansen www.ehansenproductions.com |
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Update: Did this turn into the "Plume Handi-Pod Stabilizing System with Telescoping Monopod - Supports up to 1.1 lbs"? |
Marcus:
Perhaps it would be best if you didn't surround your comments with such definitive statements that purport to quell any disagreement, since some of them are not quite accurately stated. Quote:
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But in real life, where weight is a concern, the counterweight is actually less than the camera and the difference is made up with the principal of leverage by placing it further from the center of gravity. And since the rig is thus in delicate balance, a gimbal is necessary to properly isolate the three angular axes. Quote:
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Now, in the arena of low-end stabilizers, casual users and relatively undemanding attention to the results, there is a good chance that you can substitute one for the other (not to say that wedding photographers can or should be "sloppy", but it's a different ball of wax when you are operating on a large studio feature) But since your statements were aimed at an empirical discussion of all stabilizers, I thought it appropriate to chime in on this. |
Marcus,
Although it's cool that you've developed your own device, I think you're being a bit unreasonable. There's a vast difference between what a monopod (with or without weights) can do and what a true stabilizer can do. Now, before you get defensive, please understand that me and my associates use monopods at our weddings, not stabilizers. I would rather have the versatility of the monopod system over the steadiness of the stabilizer system. But I am also willing to appreciate the differences. The weight on your monopod will certainly help your stability, but it can't compensate for movement in your wrist and arm like a gimbal can, especially the gimbal handles that can also move up and down. So be proud of your home-made device, and feel free to tell us all about it, but don't be so hard on true stabilizer systems. Just recognize that both have their advantages and disadvantages. |
This is an older thread of which I haven't been keeping abreast. I really don't want it to start a flame war, but you may have detected that my frustration with overly complex systems elevates my blood pressure a bit.
I will start by agreeing that I am wrong about gyro-stabilized systems. There is more than one and they can be mounted on more than just helicopters. Still, they are expensive and not easily man-portable. I don't really think they are something that can yet be considered by wedding videographers. "To actually make a shot, the rig must be "ordered" to move in whatever direction is desired with a minimum of interference in unwanted axes which will appear as instability in the shot; so to this statement I would add ISOLATION as another critical factor." I stand by the fact that inertia is the only factor that stabilizes the rig. It is the inertia that isolates the camera from the operator's actions. I also re-iterate from my explanation that "A stabilizer has three points of mass which are supported in the center. That's it." It must be supported from near the center and less than three "points" and the rig will rotate easily around one axis. More than three points is excess and will add equipment that can get in the way of operating the rig. Three points of mass is correct in the same way that three legs are the best way to support a camera. A camera quadropod would work, but that extra leg would be unnecessary and get in the way. "Imagine a weighted handheld monopod, wherein the bottom weight is, say, 50 lbs--obviously the rig would be exceptionally bottom heavy and impractical, but it would be quite stable, and that with only two points of mass." I must strongly disagree. A two-point system would rotate around the central axis easily, even with a 50 pound point of weight. I tried a rig with just a camera, monopod, and heavy weight at the bottom. The rotation around the central columm results in the camera lens jolting left-to-right frequently. A heavy bottom weight will also make it difficult to support the mass near the middle which is the second of my two criteria for a stabilizer. "And since the rig is thus in delicate balance, a gimbal is necessary to properly isolate the three angular axes." There is no better powered gimbal in the known universe than the human hand. The drawback to a monopod is that one hand is taken away from camera operation during motion shots. As you said, the separation of the mass points increases their effectiveness due to leverage. I find that about two feet is practical since more would cause the weights to bump things. More distance would be more stable, and I could make my shots just as stable in all dimensions with a large crossbar as a very expensive system, but there are the other significant benefits from portability that can not be duplicated by ANY other system. My ability to go high-angle and low-angle in seconds is unsurpassed. NOTHING else can perform the range of motions that I can with my stabilized monopod. I will also argue that I can get better quality since I can do it all in one take. If you took the ability to practice a shot and do multiple takes away from a major motion picture steadycam operator, his shots would look no better than most of mine (I'll back that up with a clip some day) and I can go to angles impossible with a conventional system. I can also switch to a tripod in about 10 seconds for telephoto shots from the back balcony of the church. There are few instances where I need a tripod, but it is easy to switch when the time is right. With any rig, the quality of the shot really comes down to the operator. The operator MUST practice and gain experience until they are comfortable with their rig. I am an expert with my rig because is is my rig that I created through trial-and-error and became versed in the details of stabilization through direct experience. There is no substitute for training your brain to take better shots. |
If it really were possible to get BETTER shots with a monopod with some weights versus a 24k stabilizer system, I'm pretty sure Hollywood would be using the monopod system. There's no way they would be spending thousands of extra dollars for a system that wasn't worth it.
If I'm wrong, and your system really is better, then I suggest you patent it and get it on the market for 24k a piece. |
I'm glad I learned a new word today, 'gimble.'
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The thing I have been debating is which is better: the Flowpod or a Glidecam 2000/4000? The Glidecam seems to have an edge in that it can move on a vertical basis if needs be. The Flowpod can move in all horizontal directions, but there's no room for vertical movement. It certainly moves smoothly, don't get me wrong, but I'm wondering if the Glidecam might be better. I'm sure one day my cousin will want his Flowpod back so I'm just trying to decide what will be the best. Thank you in advance for your thoughts. |
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I know what gimble ment, but I was trying to make a joke out of my purchasing frustration on what to buy for run and gun at weddings. |
I was just teasing you as I know very little about gimbles aside from the point that gimble lock is a bad thing. =) Wish I knew more, but this thread has at least given me a better understanding of the different systems and their advantages/disadvantages.
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Marcus, I'm glad that you have a system that works well for you, but I can't agree with your interpretation of physics (although we do agree on some issues). That's OK though, like I said, if it works for you, stick with it--the important thing is that you are making shots that you are satisfied with.
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Please do post some clips--I'd be very interested in seeing them! |
For some reason, a tune Mac Davis did years ago comes to mind.
"Oh Lord it's hard to be humble..." |
Robert, what's with your obsession with Mac Davis? You're posting all over the place talking about him. :) Seeing as my humility is in question, I will iterate that I have so little ego as for it to approach zero. A person can not have less ego than myself and still function.
The word for the day is "gimbal", not "gimble". Gimbles are a type of dry dogfood. "Give me my gimbles and bits!" Charles, please be fair to me and read the entire intention of my sentence that you quote: "If you took the ability to practice a shot and do multiple takes away from a major motion picture steadycam operator, his shots would look no better than most of mine (I'll back that up with a clip some day) and I can go to angles impossible with a conventional system." I used the word "most". I did not denigrate steadycam operators by saying thall "all" of my shots are better than theirs. To the contrary, I said that theirs, in the same conditions, would be no better than most of mine. That statement acknowledges that my shots would be equal to most of theirs and some of mine would be inferior. I simply state that they are not the right solution for wedding videographers since a monopod with stabilizer adds such valuable options. Would I like to have a guy with a steadycam at my disposal? Of course, but I would take the stabilized monopod first. For some similar shots like walking down the aisle backwards tracking the couple as they exit the church, I have no stability issues at all. This makes those shots exactly equal to a steadycam. I went and looked at Doggicam, but could only find a description of the Pogocam. They sound identical, but I will only discuss the Doggicam. It does not have the third distinct point of mass, so it will not be as stable as my monopod. It looks like a fine system for taking low-angle shots, but it does not have enough "leverage" on it's mass to prevent the main column from rotating. It will keep the column from spinning like a baton, but the camera can move side-to-side too easily without mass perpendicular to the main column. Concerning the gimbal vs. mass. If you remove the gimbal from the system, the stabilizer will still work handheld (assuming you can lift that weight). If you remove the mass from the camera sled and keep the gimbal, the system is useless. I am only aware of one clip online at this time that has one of my tracking shots using a stabilizer. Unfortunately, it is a high-angle tracking shot so it doesn't show the absolute best steadyness of my system. The site also seems to be down at this time. I don't have a firewire card in my computer at this time, so the best I could do would be to offer to send you a tape of test footage. My conditions would be that you would have to give a fair critique of my footage and post a clip online. |
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