Hoping this is the right place for this question.

What would you (folks) say is a decent price on a used GL1? I'm seeing them average $1000 on ebay. I found one locally for $1400. I haven't seen any used at any retail stores.

Doesn't the local one seem a bit high priced? If all other things were equal (extra equipment, usage hours, condition), what is a reasonable price?

I ask because I'm looking to get one, not sell one, by the way.

I don't know what the market rate is, but I wouldn't pay nickel over $800, and it would have to be in excellent condition.

I would suggest when buying a used GL1 that you keep your budget under $1000.00. I agree that if the camera itself is in excellent condition then $800.00 is a limit, but if accessories are being offered then pick them up to.

Chad

there two for sale locally where i am one at 900 one at 950 and thats in canadian dollars...
again based on actual condition its hard to juge but the one at 1400 unless its fully loaded with extras sounds high
concidering if you look around enough you can probably find an XL1 for about 17-1800 US
hope this helps

Just wanted to say thank you to everyone who replied to this thread. You guys really saved me a lot of money. I actually stumbled across a camera today on craigslist locally and after checking it out (ffwd, rwd, play, record, playback on tv, sound), i went ahead and purchased it for $400.

Didn't come with manuals (but i downloaded those already). I'm not sure what all was missing from the original oem equptment, but no original box. The camera seems to work great though, and the guy i got it from said he shot less then 20 hours on it.

Thanks again for saving me $1000 !

~ Lisa

I would look for a used Optura Xi, around $500. Has native 16:9, which the GL1 or GL2 don't have.

Can the built-in microphone be removed or replaced on the GL1?

Can the built-in microphone be removed or replaced on the GL1?I'm sure you can google up some instructions on how to remove it, but I'm not sure I see why you'd want to. You could always just not use it and connect another mic to the 1/8" input (using a beachtek if necessary).

I don't think you're going to find anything through Google on how to remove it, but why would you want to anyway. Is it interefering with a matte box or some other lens attachment?

Actually, I was just hoping to replace it. The metal cage on mine is slightly damaged (mic still works though) and was hoping that there was a simple way to replace. No biggie though, just wanted to ask. After listening to some sound tests from onboard mic vs aftermarket, I think i'll just buy an aftermarket mic and not worry about the "ugly factor" of mine.

Thanks guys for your input.

Yeah, replacing it is a job for a Canon service center. Your best bet is the external mic anyway.

I'm taking a trip to Disneyland and Six Flags (in CA) in about 3 weeks. I've been debating on whether or not to take my GL1 with me. It is going to be a huge trip and a lot of fun (about 10-15 people in my group, 4 days). I'd love to get footage of the tip an compile a DVD or something for everyone.

I'm just worried about my precious camera. How delicate is it? Obviously I wouldnt want to take it on a ride, I don't think they'd let me anyways. But does it seem safe to take it at all? I could take my consumer miniDV (Panasonic) and I would feel safer, of course I would suffer less quality video.

What's your opinion, would you take your GL1 or GL2 with you to Disneyland?

The GL1 will be fine. On our 5 day stay at the Disney resort, I took my HD100 through Animal Kingdom and Epcot. Aside from being wore out by it, it was great. The GL is a lot lighter, more compact, and you can get a WA58 for about $100 for those wide shots. Make sure you have plenty of batteries and tapes.

By the way, I should have the shipping cost for your remote tonight. Sorry I haven't been able to get it to you sooner. Or would you like to just call it $5.95 and I'll cover the diff?

I guess the camera should be fine as long as I keep my eyes on it and keep it out of the water right?

Where are you shipping that remote from? I thought it would be under $5

I'm shipping from Florida. The box should weigh in at 1LB, and I think that is like just under $5 3day select. But, my scale is on the fritz, so I'm not positive of the weight.

And yes, make sure you have a good waterproof bag for the camera. It does tend to rain after spending $60 to get into Disney. My bag was soaked, and the camera itself stayed fairly dry, but it was damp in the bag.

I carry my camera in a Kata camera case for when I need to put it away. And I carry a plastic bag in the case to put the case in when it starts to rain. My Sony FX1 survives just fine. I carry a tripod in a sling across my back so I can get into my own shots.

I have some amazing shots of my wife and I with various characters. The tripod makes the shots I take worth watching. No shakes. Besides, you can hand off your still camera for people to take your picture (we do that for people every time we go) but it is difficult to hand someone a movie camera and ask them to shoot your movie for you. Of course, I also volunteer to do that quite a bit.

I am happy to now live near Orlando so I can get full use out of my annual pass. We go quite often. I wonder if I could make some spare change shooting a family's vacation for them? Follow them everywhere and shoot them doing everything. I doubt Disney would let me if they knew what I was doing, but it would be an interesting thought. No?

Hey Steven- Since you have the pass, go to Animal Kingdom, and you can arrange for a VIP photo safari. It is about $50 a person, but they have a seasoned guide take you behind the scenes, where the regular tourists don't go.

I have thought about that. I figure I will wait until it gets a bit cooler so the animals are a bit more active. There are a few behind-the-scenes tours around the parks that interest me. I may even do the one on the Segway around Epcot one of these days. But for that I guess I would need a helmet cam.

Hey guys, I've found a very low priced Japanese GL1, well I think $500 is low, only used lightly in a studio on a tripod, with decent accessories included, and I've downloaded the english manual. If I pick this up, it will be for a backup camera. So my first question is, has anyone ever seen or used one? I've heard of plenty of japanese VX1000s that people figure out fine. How much would you spend on a well maintained, lightly used setup like I've described? I'd appreciate any advice or helpful information.
-ben

Dear Ben,

I can find quite many Japanese 2nd hand computers, digital cameras and sometimes DV cams in Hong Kong. I bought a 2nd hand IBM computer and a Canon G1, the IBM computer is OK but the G1 is not too good since the red in the pictures is purple. I later exchange the G1 for a 2nd hand G3, which is working fine. Buying such stuff is like a gamble.

Regards,

Kenneth

FWIW: there is an internal setting on NTSC GL1s for North America or Japan. Changing it requires the RM-95 Remote Commander modified to provide service adjustment features.

I cant get a Gl1 to turn on. Either in camera or VCR mode. It is not in LOCK. Batteries are fully charged. Any ideas?

It needs to be sent in to Canon Factory Service in Jamesburg, NJ.

Canon Factory Service
100 Jamesburg Road
Jamesburg, NJ 08831
tel: 732-521-7007

Did you try connecting the camera to the power supply rather than batteries?

Did you try connecting the camera to the power supply rather than batteries?


True, try a different power source, if that doesn't work, follow the godfather's advice.

we dont have a way to power direct to the camera... only a charger for the batteries.

Isnt there a way to take it locally instead of sending it out and waiting forever to get it back?

A friend has a GL1 that has a problem with the tape transport controls.

In VCR Mode, the tape transport controls do not work, but the transport does work while capturing.

I believe this is a problem with the ribbon cable, specifically, at the connection in the handle to the group of switches.

I have found where the ribbon cable from the handle area plugs into a connector on the right side of the GL1.

I have not been able to disassemble to handle to get to the other end of this ribbon cable.



Don posted this previously:

Actually, the stock mic is fairly good for a build-in mic. Problem is no mic is going to sound very good if more than a few feet from the talent, and more direcitonal mics reduce potentially unwanted sound from the sides. The stock mic is stereo with a cardoid pattern 45 degrees to left and right of center, so pick up is fairly wide.

Getting to the mic capsules is a substantial undertaking. It goes something like:
remove bottom cover (6 screws)
remove left cover (6 screws)
remove top cover (3 screws)
remove the "U" cover (red plastic around LCD pivot)
remove handle unit (8 screws)
Then you disassemble the handle unit
remove excessory shoe sprint
remove a cable protector plat at back of handel (2 screws)
separate handle top and bottom (7 screws)
Working on the handle top
remove accessory shoe (2 screws)
remove one screw from a connector CN453 to remove the mic unit.

Note that the screws are various sizes and types, so be careful to keep them in order and in the proper locations.

You can order a service manual from Canon parts with photos, etc. that might help in the process



I have successfully removed the bottom cover.

I have not been able to remove the left cover. I have located and removed the six screws and a seventh under the transport cover. But the cover seems to be held down near the mode control dial.

I have found three screws for the top rear (dark color) top cover.

Any help will be appreciated.

Just to be sure, the left cover is on the left as you look into the lens. It contains the tape tramsport door. It also includes the 5-conductor ribbon cable from the start/stop/standby/lock switch in the left cover.

Three screws are to the front of the camcorder (one by the mic jack, one on top and one under.)

and three to the rear (one above the IEEE1394 jack, on under the tape door, and one by the earphone jack)

Dear Don,

Thank you for the additional information.

I was using the wrong frame of reference. I was thinking left meant the LCD viewer side, thinking of a frame of reference as one would hold the camera with the lens pointing forward. I will adjust my thinking.

I have been able to loosen, but not remove the LCD side cover, and have been able to completely remove the transport side cover. The LCD side cover appears to be held down near the mode control dial. I expect that this will be solved when I am able to remove the top rear cover (a dark plastic part).

I have not been able to remove the top rear cover, in my terminology this is a dark plastic part, that the EVF slides into.

I do not have the camera in front of me at this time, but I remember removing a screw near the IEEE1394 jack and one under the tape door. I do not remember removing one by the earphone jack. I will check on this as soon as I get home tonight.

I really appreciate your assistance. I expect that the switch block to ribbon cable connection is the problem.


Is the "Top Cover" the dark plastic part at the rear of the camera, the part that the EVF slides into?

How does one remove the red plastic "U" cover?

Don, I really appreciate your assistance.

Dear Don,

Just to be clear, here is my progress. I will use your terminology.

The bottom cover has been removed.

The left cover, the transport cover has been removed.
(Three screws are to the front of the camcorder (one by the mic jack, one on top and one under.

And three to the rear (one above the IEEE1394 jack, one under the tape door, and one by the earphone jack)

Now I have removed the top cover, a white piece of plastic directly under the front middle of the handle, in other words, the white piece of plastic on the body of the camera, directly under the photo button on the handle?

I have the handle loose, but not completely apart from the rest of the camera. How do you separate the top half of the handle from the bottom half in order to get to the switch block?

Don, I want to thank you again for your assistance. I would not have made it this far without you.

Handle held in place by 8 screws, and there are two ribbon cables as well.

To open the handle, remove the accessory shoe spring with tweezers (it has a sort of horse shoe shape), there are two screws under it. There are abotu 7 other screws under the handle holding its top cover in place.

And another 11 screws inside the handle holding the pieces in the top half, including the key PC board.

Well in the middle of filming a race it just went and shut off, Ive tried everything! Different battery, made sure the lock switches were off and nothing. Anyone have anything like this happen?

No indication of problems with the battery contacts?

There are three fuses inside the camcorder, one may have blown. Generally not user replaceable.

i know in the gl2 there are several conectors near the tripod mount on the camera...if the mount is loose it could have knocked on loose...or just over time one could become loose...other than that i havent a clue

Anyone know where to get a factory service manual for the GL1? I figure I would like to have one since I have 3 cameras, that way i can fix the "little stuff" myself. I know its not much of a comparison, but I use to be able to get the FSM for my cars from different place (legally of course). Thought maybe someone here would know where to get one for the GL.

Anyone know where to get a factory service manual for the GL1? I figure I would like to have one since I have 3 cameras, that way i can fix the "little stuff" myself. I know its not much of a comparison, but I use to be able to get the FSM for my cars from different place (legally of course). Thought maybe someone here would know where to get one for the GL.
Unless you have an "in" with an independent service person, you won't find a repair manual on any Canon Camera. You must send the camera to a Canon repair center. Follow the online instructions to the letter, and Canon will respond to you with a "brought up to factory specifications" repair within two weeks on the average. It may or may not cost a lot. Canon is responsive in many ways.
Canon may not service cameras older than seven years, so be prepared for a message in this regard. They will let you know before you ship.

As a rule, Canon factory service manuals are very difficult to obtain. There aren't any parts that are user-serviceable anyway. Your best bet, as Waldemar points out above, is to use the Canon factory service centers in Irvine, CA and Jamesburg, NJ.

As Chris notes, there isn't anything inside the camcorder that is end-user repairable or adjustable - but someone with strong technical abilities and specialized test equipment might be able to put them to use. And for most folks, the risk of damaging their camcorder would be rather high.

That said, at one time you could buy the GL1 service manuals from Canon, cost was about $60 for the camcorder. To get one you had to sign a warranty waiver (no warranty coverage for camcorders you worked on) and you had to go through a gatekeeper at Canon USA as well. Reasons for this are pretty clear if you think about it. Given the age of the GL1 and original XL1 they might be more inclined to release the manuals to a buyer these days.

Hi, All.......

I've started to notice a problem with my GL-1's zoom system. Too often, especially when hand-held shooting, the zoom starts automatically, especially after hitting the record button. Then, when I zoom back out to full-frame, the camera hesitates a few seconds then automatically starts zooming back in again.

I'm not sure of the rocker switch needs cleaning, or if it an internal electronics issue. If anyone has had similar problems, let me know.

Thanks!
James

Well I don't think it's been dropped but now I am getting a infrared like image in my viewfinder not sure why.

So am I screwed?

Any help would be grateful.

Thanks
Mike

Hers a pic
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a243/BPCustoms/IMG_6737.jpg

The picture you posted leads me to ask, does the image we see in the LCD screen also appear in the viewfinder? Does this same image appear on the tape? If both answers are "No", then it's probably just a bad LCD screen.

If that's the case, my answer would be "NO, you're not screwed." You just have to decide to put up with a bad LCD screen or have it fixed.

Good luck!

mmmm.. unfortuantely it does appear in both the LCD and the viewfinder..

Any ideas?

Thanks
mike

Any chance some effect or preset (e.g., ART) is turnd on?

mmmm.. unfortuantely it does appear in both the LCD and the viewfinder..

Any ideas?

Thanks
mike

Does it show up on tape?

My GL1 has two stuck pixels, but they only show up at shutter speeds slower than about 1/200. It's definitely in the imaging system, as I tested it by hooking it to the TV and running it on "camera" with the lens cap on. As I dial through the shutter speeds, the bright pixels just fade away. Is this something that will get worse over time, or can this camera be relied upon when shooting brightly lit conditions. It was used almost exclusively outdoors, so I don't know how long the pixels were like this.

I had hoped to sell the camera now that I'm more or less committed to getting an XH A1, but I don't want to sell something that will crap out on someone. Still, if someone can get some use out of it, it's better off in their hands than in the back of my closet.

EDITING - has anyone encountered a problem with split files when capturing using an EDIUS system?
If I use the NX card setting and firewire connection, when capturing and having selected 'no divided files' it does divide / split the capture into 1 second clips. Someone informed me that it is due to a setting in the Canon to do with data stream.
I need to know what can be altered to stop this.

Regards,

I had this same problem (actually, mine would also zoom out on its own... thought mostly it would zoom in) happen to me a year or two after I purchased my GL-1. It was still under the extended warranty at that time so I took it in to the Jamesburg Canon office, and they did some work on it. The problem seemed to be gone, but then came back maybe six months later, though I think not as severely as before I took it in.

If you ever figure out what it is, I'd appreciate it if you posted your findings (or just message me)

Hot pixels are a possible issue when shooting at slow shutter speeds and with gain is used; i.e., shooting in poor light. They should not appear in images with average content with shutter of 1/60 or faster and 0 dB gain, and usually fiorst appear in deep shadow areas. High temperatures can make they more apparent.

Can't say whether or not they will get worse over time, but you may want to warn the buyer with some specific notes as to when they may be apparent.

from my experience .. if you do see hot pixels at shutter speeds below 1/200 - you might leave the camera ON for 1 1/2 - 2hr and see if they start showing at any speed ... also i find you see them better using interlace mode and 0 gain ( after camera is on for 1 hr)
i've had nothing but problems with hot pixels over the years ... it's a good thing i bought a GE service contract ... from 2001 - 2006 they replace the CCD's 3 or was it 4 times ?? .. my GE contract expired last Dec 14 - lucky i had the camera in for repairing hot pixels on Dec 11th ... they are still trying to fix it 7 months later ... this year they were replaced in Feb , April & May and i still have hot pixels ( yes 3 times .. 3rd party repair shops blame it on faulty Canon CCD's ) ... just yesterday they approved $793 for Canon to replace the CCD's ...
i don't get it ?? they have put more $$ into repairing the camera this year then it is worth BUT what can i say but THANK YOU GE ... i guess i can say GE has a excellent service contract !!!!

the same has been happening to me but one day it just stopped doing it..but this problem needs to be solved.