Hey guys!

I have a weird question. I have a short film (video) that I shot with two different cameras. Said film was dubbed to miniDV from Final Cut Pro with my GL1. I want to send a copy of this tape to a composer so he can work on the music for it.

He's going to need a timecode as a reference on the tape I send and I'm not sure how to do that. I checked the GL1 manual and the timecode that I got it to display on the current tape is all over the place. It's not even really a timecode, it's more like a date and time stamp. All I really need is a counter for the guy.

Anyway, I'm new to a lot of this, so if any of you know how to do this, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks in advance.

This is really a Final Cut Pro question. I thought Final Cut Pro could show a timecode window burn. Anybody?

Hello all,

I am new to digital video, but I have a GL-1 and I was converting a VHS tape to the GL-1 and Had a problem with video noise at the top of the screen. When I was viewing on the TV screen, I did not see any problem, but viewing via the monitor on the GL-l I seen the video problem. My question - Since the problem did not occur on the TV screen, can I have a problem with my setting on the GL-1? If so, what are the correct setting. Is this a normal issue when converting from VHS to digital? The video quality was good on the VHS tape, but I do not know waht cause the video problem. Again, I had a situation like the tracking was off but it did not show up on the TV screen during the transfer.

Many Thanks in Advance

Kever Conyers
Memphis, TN

Sounds like your VCR may have a problem reading the start of each scan on the VHS tape, not totally unheard of. A TBC might correct it. However, it sounds like it is in the overscan area that is not seen on standard TV sets (only some professional monitors and screen grabs).

I have a GL1 and Im trying to dump some phootage
to my computer via the firewire.
My problem is the phootage itself comes out slightly jerky and sometimes fuzzy.
I tried both Premiere and VideoWave 3. Both have same results.
Ive saved some of the files and viewed with different viewers but no difference. Is this due to my system:
Athlon 900 with 512 MB ram , hard drive dual partion with OS (Win 98) seperate on a 30 gig 7200 rpm HD. Video card is a G2 gts 32MB.
What do I need to do to rectify this problem?

Thanks

Are you using firewire or analog capture?

Im using firewire.

It might be Windows 98... it could also be your firewire card...
some people have reported problems with their firewire cards
with certain cameras....

Other than that I have no clue...

Flip

Try adding a second drive and blowing off Win 98 and going to W2k. Partitioning is ok but can cause problems like what you are experiencing.

to get the best performance, have one disk with your OS/Apps on it and the other for video filess only. Processor and RAM are fine, but Win98 isn't really up to the video task.

If getting a copy of Win2k is a problem let me know

In FCP go to Effects:Video Filters:Video:Timecode Print and presto.
Sorry I am so late but I didn't see this post untill now.

Rhett

Ive got another 40 gig , 7200 RPM , UDMA 100 drive and also a
7200 RPM , 9.1 gig UWD scsi drive. I will try each of those to see...
along with putting my firwire card into one of my 2000 Machines...
Guess i will have to build a comp just for video editing....

Thanks for the support...

Oh , Afterburner , thanks again for steering me towards the GL1 as I've gotten to use the XL1s now and you were right in saying the GL1 is the better way to go for full on , in the action , filming (skateboarding videos). The XL1s is way to auckward for that.

Don't worry about the SCSI drive, it's way to small. The 40GB ATA100 drive will do the job nicely.

It is best to have a machine just for video. DV demands almost total resourses to perform at it's best. It will work on a non exclusive machine, but if you are doing serious work a DV only machine is the way to go.

I'm stoked you're happy with your camera choice. The GL1 is a great little camera. Don't write off the XL1 though, maybe later down the track you can use one for a second angle, something I find is missing in a lot of low end skate videos. As soon as I have the spare coin, I'm adding a GL1 to my kit so I can do just that.

Enjoy :)

I just bought a GL-1 and I guess I really should have a left a little time to figure everything out on it. I assumed transferring the video to my laptop would be an easy matter. I have a firewire port and card that connects up to my camera fine, but it won't capture the DV. My computer keeps freezing up. Do I need a separtate capture card is my first question. My second is, do I need software for the GL-1 istelf? Like drivers and stuff? I can't find anything like that on the canon website and wasn't given anything with the camera.

I'm in the process of making a short comedy sketch. The thing has to be edited onto VHS by Wednesday for my portfolio. I have absolute no idea how I'm going to get this done in time. Any input would be really appreciated.

Thanks.

You need editing & capture software that recognizes the GL1. Such as Adobe Premiere, or for a cheao solution, try ArcSoft ShowBiz or ArcSoft Video Impression.

Thanks for the reply. I have Video Wave three, this keeps crashing though. Do I need other software?

You don't need a separate capture card. All you need is a firewire port.

You do not need software specifically for the GL-1.

You do need some type of editing/capture software that recognizes the GL1 as Chris mentions.

That's all you need.

The problem is making sure that everything is compatible. My advice would be to go to the website of the editing/capture software you are using. Make sure you have the latest update for that software. Then go through the support pages and be sure that your firewire port/card is supported by the software. Also make sure you have the right driver installed for you firewire port/card and that it is installed correctly.

For example, I have a firewire card installed in WindowsXP. I use a GL1 and Adobe Premiere. I could not get mine to work for awhile but learned that my card was installed improperly even though I did not see any exclamation points.

Make sure your computer has enough power, don't capture on battery, make sure you your laptop is plugged in as a lot of laptops step the processor speed down when on battery to save power

Thanks for the replies everyone, I'll look into this and get back to you.

Anyone got any scoop on what the quality of the stills are shot with a GLI in still mode? And secondly what is the quality when a still is taken from a video frame?
Thanks

The GL1, like the XL1(s), does ok with its stills. Basically it lays down 6 sec of the still onto the tape. Taking frames from moving footage is comparable, depending of course on the amount of motion.

In general, however, video cameras as pretty weak at still photography compared to even modest digital still cameras today. The design objective differences between still and video cameras are fundamental. For example, unlike still cameras, the GL1 can only capture a 720x480 image resolution.

My suggestion is to use a digital still camera for stills and/or simply grab frames from moving GL1 footage if you absolutely need them and only have footage at hand. The "photo" facility on the GL1 and XL1(s) is, in my opinion, a rather silly feature meant to appeal to the "-sumer" side of the "prosumer" video market.

Hey Guys!

I just plunked down some money and bought a wireless Sennheiser lavalier mic and receiver to do a wedding. I can put the transmitter on the groom no problem, but I am worried about where the hell to put the receiver box. The GL1 is so compact there's really nowhere to attach the durn receiver box. Have any of you done this before and if you have, do you have any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

I want to have good sound on my newly ordered dv camera
the Canon XM1 {in europe} ,so after reading many posts regarding ext mics, which is the best adapter with this camera,
the Beachtek xlr adapter or the Studio 1 xlr pro.mic will be hand held.

I have a Beachtek and have had no trouble with it. Some have reported that their Beachtek produces a low-frequency hum. Nobody that I've seen has reported trouble with the Studio One, not to say that it's perfect.

Honestly, I think either will be fine.

There's no pretty, or even convenient, way to mount a wireless receiver on the GL1. Azden has one that mounts to the camera's shoe (on the handle). Clever, but irrelevelant for your purposes.

Depending on the length of the receiver's cable you may be able to mount it to your belt or drop it in your pocket. More likely you'll have to Velcro-mount it to either the camera's handle or the lcd door for handheld shooting.

Likewise, I have used my Beachtek for several years with the XL-1 and the Sony TRV900 with no problems. In fact, I prefer it to the MA-100 since it gives you separate pots for mic and line level inputs plus you can toggle between mono and stereo. I can't speak for the Studio One since I have not used it.

Hum? What hum?

So I see that the GL-1 now has a $250 rebate. What was it before, I forgot?

According to this (http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1090) thread, $100.

The increase is interesting and would surely add fuel to the argument that they are replacing it with another model.

Hmmm.....

Damn. Wish I could have waited just a bit longer. I bought my GL-1 early March because I needed to shoot some footage around late March. Could have saved some money or waited for a better model.

What's the best way to sell a GL-1? Is there a way to trade that in?

Don't forget, Canon's rebates look like junk mail when you get them. They come in an envelope labeled "Advertising Bureau" or something like that. It's very easy to toss them in the garbage with the rest of the junk mail you tend to get.

I bought my camera in December and just got it last week.

Many dealers will do trade-ins; e.g., B&H, but you may do better selling it yourself. You effectively split the dealers profit with the new buyer.

With almost all technology products (except Windows - the power of monopoly) prices go down over time. Don't buy until you need it, and be prepared to see a 10% price drop a week or two later.

Hi,

I'll be near the National Archives soon and I've heard that you can view film footage that has been dubbed to Umatic tape. Has anyone tried to dub this to DV via GL-1? I understand that the Umatic viewers have a BNC video out. I don't need 'broadcast' quality or cost. It would be nice if it is good quality. On another note - I also understand that you can view 16 & 35 mm film, would the quality of taping that right off a screen be OK, better or worse that UMatic?

Thanks in advance
Mark

I've done this with good results. I work a TV station, so I had an engineer make adapter cables for me. I went straight from the deck to the camera without a problem.

I've also recorded 16mm film from the projector with so-so results. It took a lot of tweaking bewteen scenes to get it right. That could've just been from really old, deteriorating film.

Hope this helps.

Hi,

Go the tape route. Umatic delivers a good picture. The problem may be with how old the tape is and how its been stored. I would think the Archives would store it properly but who knows. Composite video and line level audio should make for a decent dub. If it's old enough there is probably no sound. Trying to shoot movies off a screen or wall is full of problems. The frame rates are all wrong and the video flickers. The camera also sees the texture to the screen or wall and it makes the film look even grainier. good luck

Jeff Donald

Hi all. I am almost sold on getting myself an XM1 but I have one more thing someone just brought to light regarding it. Someone told me that the audio on the XM1 has Automatic Gain Control and that I might be in trouble if I used it for anything like filing a short film or movie.

Now, I will be getting a shotgun mic and boom with XLR adapter for it, but from what I hear that will still go through the AGC circuitry so I'll get strange happenings when shooting things like quiet sounds and the like. Is this correct?

Can someone offer some input into this - Whether my concerns are unfounded or a possible solution. I'm thinking that I might have to go to a DAT tape and use a clapper board for syncing or something? Someone even mentioned that I can get a mini-disk recorder and connect a mic to that.

Thanks in advance for the help.
Aaron

A good Sony Mini Disk is a great low cost alternative to DAT. You'll have to get an adapter to go from XLR to 1/8" and make sure you use a mike that is self powering(ie does not require phantom power). You'd have to do this with a DAT to unless you plan on spending around $5000+.

Thanks Adrian. I will look into the mini disk recorders/players I think. Are self powered mics easy to come by? I can't say I've heard of a mic that had a battery, but then again I'm new to all this.

Also, am I right about the audio on the GL1 (XM1)? If I did get an XLR adapter with controls for level adjustment, will the Auto Gain Control still kick in?

The GL1 (XM1) does have a type of AGC on the audio, but it is no where near as intrusive as typical cosnumer camcorder AGC. It operates more like an easyover limiter and acts to reduce gain if the input signal exceeds a certain level (corrresponding to about 12 dB below maximum allowable record level) to preserve haedroom for transients.

Obviously, if you have a very hot mic it will be in AGC much of the time, so it is good to have the ability to manage the mic level. Devices such as the Studio 1 Pro and beachtek do this nicely. Alternatively you can use the MIC ATT setting for a macro lsort of level control.

As to which external mic to use, depends on what you are recording. For stereo on a budget and a 3.5mm stereo connector check the AT-822 or Sony ECM-MS957. They also will work with MiniDISC recorders.

Thanks Don, I think I will go with the GL1. For mics I'm mainly doing scenes for short films and movies, with the occasional interview for hobbyist videos (Drag racing etc). The mic's that I normally see hanging off booms are Shotgun ones right? The usual silver sigar shaped ones that you see with fluffy covers around them sometimes..

Cheers

Does the GL1 not have a manual audio mode like the XL1?

Don, does the AGC circuit on the XL1/S function in the same manner as you describe for the GL1?

Ed, the XM1(GL1) doesn't have a manual sound mode.

BUMMER!

I have not compared the XL1/s AGC to the GL1 AGC, but the GL1 is advertized as being 'smart'. I gues folks wiht good ears shoud try both and see whihc they prefer. Note that the XL1 mic preamps are better than the preamps in the GL1 (substantially lower noise floor)

Hi all

I became an XM1 owner today after a month of lurking around this forum trying to decide which camera to buy.
A BIG thanks to all that takes their valuable time to answer peoples questions on this forum. It has helped me a lot.

Now I'm in the need of some assistance. I plan to buy lots of accessories to my XM1 such as lenses, tripods, a steadycam thingie and maybe a microphone.
I've done my homework and browsed around the web searching for the most "bang for the buck" equipment out there but I'm not sure I've covered all the manufacturers.
I would be forever greatful for links to different manufacturers of these accessories:

* Lenses

* Tripods (and heads)

* Firewire card (that's known to be reliable with the XM1, PC)

* Cases (hard body, big enough to take the smaller accessories)

Thanks in advance.

Update,

I've been able to find the info I wanted for the lenses and tripods so disregard those. I still need some input though, about the remaining two.

I'm able to borrow a sound card from Creative Labs that's supposed to have firewire built in. Hopefully it'll work without any glitches but I'll have to see later this week. It feels as if I'm in for some troubles...

Best regards

i see you're in europe ..have you looked at the CEVEL IM2 made in france ?
has excellent spec's ..phantom power, bass roll off,

http://www.cevl.com/im2/im2.html

The people at Finding Electra are using the BeackTek on their GL-1. Check http://www.findingelectra.com

Nathan Gifford

I have noticed when I import my footage from the Canon XM1 (a GL1 PAL) into iMovie that there is a huge amount of area imaged that is not viewable in either the LCD screen, or the CRT view finder, and parts of the final frame that have no image at all.

I created a down and dirty 'chart' and marked off what could be seen by the LCD screen and the CRT viewfinder. What worries me the most are the two black bars on either side that seems to be completely unimaged.

Can anyone shed any light on this phenomenon?

http://www.privateerpictures.com/gl1/xm1.jpg

You lose about 8 pixels on each edge. They are in the underscan area of normal TV and Broadcast Video. They will show up on overscan monitors, full frame/field grabs, and in computer graphics systems that do not understand underscan.

This seems like the same problem that there is with the Xl1s. It has black lines of pixels on it's image also.

Does anyone know if this is a problem with all Canon DV cams? Do the sony's have it too?

They had a story on those Sony Nightshot cameras on Tech TV's Cyber Crime. People could use the night shot mode in full daylight to get voyeur pictures through some clothing. If I remember correctly, many states have outlawed the use of these cameras for that reason. As a result, these cameras are no longer being manufactured.