For a monitor you should really get a monitor calibration device. I use the Spyder device from ColorVision.

http://www.colorvision.com/home.html

Just ordered my GL2 (from Buydig, who had a good price and I trusted hem since I had bought something from them before).
I decided to start with Pinnacle Studio 8 as an editor and am trying to learn it now. Maybe I'm missing something, but shouldn't one of the first steps in editing be to carefully review -- in as large a format as possible -- my "take" for that day/event? Pinnacle does not seem to have that capability -- unless I missed it. I would want to check if the clips are in crisp focus and for other flaws, at full screen, and ideally as large the eventual output medium. What am I missing?
Thanks.
Roland

I'll try to be a clear and precise as possible.Please bear with me as I'm no expert,but a hobbyist.In card mode my unit performs,(in my opinion)very poorly as directly compared to tape mode,even when all the settings are identical to the extent possible. possible.This post will specifically refer to the scenario when one directly compares what one sees in one mode to the other by simply just flipping the selector back and forth.

In card mode:

1)Scrolling the wheel to reset the AE settings in either direction,(postive or negative)has no effect,it does no change the amount of light being displayed on either the LCD screen or viewfinder. This holds true in auto,manual or easy modes.Anotherwords, what's there when you power on is all there is and it does not get any brighter,nor is it alterable and is "fixed".Should'nt this be adjustable?

2)The image is very dark compared to the same exact shot in card mode which makes it almost useless for digital photography shots indoors.Yes,I'm aware this is not a digital camera but a mini dv camcorder.Why is the amount of light displayed so dismal?

Even in bright,office lighting results are mediocre at best.When you throw the switch over to tape mode,voila,the change is so dramatic,it's like you just pointed the lens at the sun as there's a great burst of light and now your exposure is way too bright as opposed to formerly being dark and almost unusuable.

3)The image consistently takes on a reddish,pink,brownish hue.Throw the switch back to tape mode and its almost perfect color.Go figure.This is driving me nuts.I've sent this back to the factory before and they said it is full up to factory specs.BTW,this condition is achieved and present after a full/fresh white balancing,that's already factored into the equation.

Anyone in the group experience anything even remotely similiar and what did you do?

Please:comments,opinions,user experiences and suggestions wanted.I don't think my unit is 100% operational,and the warranty is about to run out as I did not opt for purchasing multi-year coverage.Also,is it too late to get more insurance at a reasonable rate going forward?Where would that be obtained?
Any of your live in eastern or central Massachusetts?
Can't find a store reasonable close that stocks one of these so I can see what another unit does.Thanks everyone for your input and advice.

Bruce

Was going through some of my old still camera stuff the other day and came across a bag full of Cokin filters. I know they will fit on the camera fine (just need a connector with the proper filter size). Looks like some of the split density filters will give some interesting effects.

I'll be giving these a try this fall. Has anyone else played with Cokins on their GL1/2s?

I really would like to get some feedback from you regarding your experiments later this fall.

I have a Cokin Sunsoft (warming) filter that I have used on my GL2, to good effect. I also have a gradual ND, ND2, & Blue Cokin filters. These were originally purchased with a 37 -> 52 step up, because I was using a Sony TRV-120 (Digital8) camera, but with a 58mm adapter, they fit my GL2.

Same here. I have a Sunsoft in the 43mm size, as well as others. The Cokin filters with the adaptor offers a great filter solution on the cheap. It's like a mini matte box. I have a good Cokin users link at:

http://www.dvfreak.com/filters.htm

Bruce

All I can tell you is that in my opinion there's most likely nothing wrong with your GL2. You're just seeing the stark differences between tape mode and card mode. Many of the camera's parameters including exposure, etc. are seriously limited in card mode. Why this is I don't know, but your manual will clearly spell out what the limitations of card mode are. Card mode is definitely not suited for indoor low-light situations, that's for sure. Hope this helps,

1)In card mode what can you do to adjust the level of light and what page of the manual should I be looking at?

2)Is there a source where I can reasonably extend my warranty beyond the initial term backed up by Canon without possibly getting gouged?

Thanks.....

Bruce

I think I have an idea on what caused the problem, but not really.

Not too long ago I was in dying need of tapes and had to purchase 2 Sony premiums(Have used nothing but Panasonic ever since I picked my camera up until now). After I used the two tapes I notice that my captured footage had dark edges on all four corners of the piture. It kind of forms a gradient from black to transparent and disappears into the picture. It isn't big, but deifnately noticeable. It doesn't show up when I'm filming with the camera, only when captured. I also noticed that when I zoomed in the picture got even darker, so it kind of covered the picture more and more when I zoomed in and got brighter while I zoomed out. Is there a problem with the camera or do I jsut need to run a head cleaner through it?

I am going to pick up a head cleaner tomorrow since I am pretty sure that this will solve the problem, but I'm not sure which kind of cleaner I should get. Wet or dry, which brand?

PS: There wasn't a lens on at the time, so it isn't vignetting.

Since you're using Panasonic tapes I suggest a dry cleaner tape from Panasonic.

run you from $10.00 - $11.00

--William

Do a search on this. There was a similar discussion about the same problem a while back, but I forget the eventual outcome.

Ryan, this is a "standard" "effect" of the GL2's. It's called keyholing and it varies from camera to camera. I have it on my Xm2, and I am taking it it to see if something can be done about it as I find it unacceptable.

Were you shooting in lower light with the Sony tapes as I have found that when in lower light the effect is more pronounced. You probably wont see it in the viewfinder/lcd because of the overscan that those viewing devices have - you can't see all the frame.

Go to http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3430&highlight=gl2+vignetting for the thread.

Cheers
Aaron

Couple of questions.....

Using head cleaning tapes on the XL-1 and GL-1....

....how often?

I realize they can damage heads, but when horizontal lines interrupt an important shoot, you don't know until it's over.

Experiences from users?



OK....we've got 2 XL-1's and 3 GL-1's and somebody ran a wet cleaning cassette (Sony) through these cameras a number of times after they were acclimated to a dry cleaning cassette (Panasonic/Canon).

So.....stripes over video everywhere.

Do I need to send these in to Canon to be cleanedcorrectly or is there a way I can handle it myself?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

There's a problem.

The LCD screen doesn't work!!! It's just white. Nothing else, just white. Plus the camera acts weird about the LCD screen and the EVF. The EVF will only work when the screen is open, which is backwards from every other camera I've ever used. I'm assuming this is just a random lemon, but I wanted to know if anyone else has experienced this or heard of this before? I'm obviously getting it replaced but I'm still kinda pissed cause I was really looking forward to shooting this weekend. :(

Okay, got the Senni Evolution Kit. Where can a stick the Rx on the XM2?

Brackets? Velcro? Super Glue? Spit!! - Chewing Gum?

. . . get the picture? The Sound from this set up is awesome!

All I need to do now is somehow attached the receiver to the XM2. I don't wish to "fix" it to my trouser belt - yeah?

Grazie

You know what to expect. Screen out 'Image'. That's it! Go with your gut instincts on this one - Lemons are for tea, salad dressing, marinated lamb and those nice french tartlets - yeah?

Grazie

He's saying it's a lemon, a dud, and suggesting that you should return it because lemons should be only used"for tea, salad dressing, marinated lamb and those nice french tartlets" Personally, I prefer my lemons as ice cold lemonade. :)

Click here: http://www.dvfreak.com/dah.gif

Neat idea over at the Cow Canon Site. It confirmed the way I wanted to go:

http://www.creativecow.net/forum/read_post.php?postid=106139877253975&forumid=59

No one replied . . but I thought I'd share this with you all . . kinda guy I am . . .

<wink>


Grazie

Mini-rover, mini-mate combo is elegant, but pricey solution.

http://www.dvshop.ca/camera/videosmith.html

Thanks Marco. Yup seen the Mini-Rover. Personally too much stuff for me. I like to be mean and lean - unlike the camera's operator [ Moi! ] .


Okay, I've raided my friend's, what he calls his - "Tute-Box", this equates to the "I-aint-throwing-that-away-I-might-need-it-one-day" BOX - We've all got one. Anyway I mopunted a fair sized plate on a Cold-Foot which now slides into the Cold-Shoe on the MA300. I fixed this with what we ccall in UK as Millipt putty - type of cold set plastic. Youcan model it and form it. Having finished painting it in XM2 MA300 Satin black finish it looks like the "Cannine's Spherical Rear Appendages". Cost = £00.00 . . . .

The Senni comes with Elephant Velcro System. Stuck both strips onto the Plate and the Slapped on the Rx. You could hang a tree off it!!!

So there you have it . . Y'know what they say about "Mothers and Inventions" - what you might FRANKLY call ZAPPAing it - HAH ha!!

Thanks again Marco,

Grazie

I am using my brand new GL2 attached to an iMac G4. I am using FCE as an editing tool. I have tried just a small shot to test capture to the computer. I am trying t capture the video using capture clip by setting in and out. Even though the correct time codes are shown in the capture screen and the LCD of the camera I get an error code that says the computer cannot find the correct time code. When I view the LCD of the camera it is in a "stop" mode. If I try to capture by capture now, it will only capture when I finally push play on the camera. I have captured quiet a bit of video using an old JVC camcorder which worked fine. What might I be doing wrong?

Thanks Phil

Is anyone using the GL2 with the XL1-S for video shoots? I have the GL-2 and want to get the XL1-S for a second camera, but I am afraid the colors will be way off. Hoping someone can give me a comparrison. Thanks.

Bruce Cleveland

No worry. They match pretty well. If anything you may have to knock the GL2's sharpness down one notch, depending on the subject.

Run a Search here for other remarks, as this is a relatively frequent topic.

I'm new to using the GL2, so hopefully I'm not missing
something really obvious.

I've got a brand-new, 6-week old GL2. It seems that
I am unable to rewind tapes in the camera, even a
freshly striped tape. The behavior is:

1) Camera hooked to AC adapter, in VCR/Play mode,
no DV or other external cable connected
2) Play tape to anywhere in the tape past where a
REWIND will use the high-speed mode.
3) From STOP, press the Rewind button
4) The camera starts to rewind, but as soon as it
"shifts gears" into high-speed rewind, it stops,
and displays the message:

"REMOVE THE CASSETTE"

in red for a few seconds, then flashes EJECT on
the VCR screen in red.
5) The camera is functionless until the cassette is
ejected and re-inserted
6) Repeating the test produces the same results.

I've run the cleaning cassette for 10 seconds three
times so far. These are SONY cassettes. This morning,
I striped a tape (record 61 minutes of "lens cap"), and
it shows the same behavior. The tape was previously
slightly used (had about 2 minutes of throw-away
footage at the beginning).

I can pull the data from the tapes just fine using
Firewire. If I hold down the REWIND key in PLAY mode,
the footage is displayed, and the tape rewinds to BOT
with no problem. It definitely seems to be a high-speed
rewind issue.

I've sent a message to Canon tech support (yesterday)
but have yet to receive a reply.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Welcome Monroe,
It sounds to me that you may have a problem with a sensor in the camera's tape transport mechanism. If so, it will require attention by Canon service. I am assuming that your tapes are in good condition.

Wait a day or two to see if Canon responds. Call them if they do not.

Monroe, also, I wouldn't run the tape cleaner for more that 5 or 6 seconds at a time. Here's a little bit about tapes:

http://www.dvfreak.com/tape.htm

But as Ken suggested, your cam most likely needs servicing.

I am about to buy my first MiniDV Camera and I am trying to decide on which camera to get. (Either Canon XL1S, GL2, or Panasonic DVX100) Although I'm leaning more towards an XL1S or GL2, but anyways to my question. I've been looking at the product specs and accessories for XL1S and GL2 on Canon's website and I noticed that they did not have any filters listed on the accessories page for the GL2, yet they have many for the XL1S. So my question is can you not use filters on the GL2 or do you just have to buy them from a third-party supplier? Also, I have read in some other threads where people had been saying to get a UV filter to keep on your lens at all times to prevent scratching of the glass. So I was wondering, does keeping a UV filter on the lens at all times not affect the color or quality of what you film? Thanks for any information you can give about this.

i use a canon (made by canon) 58mm uv filter, got it on ebay for like 10 bucks. works pretty well, you will notice a slight difference when outside, it turns blueish white skies into a more natural color. good investment.

Darrell,
You certainly can use filters on the GL2. If you want to use screw-on type filters (the most common style for that camera) you should look for filters with a 58mm diameter.

Tiffen, B+W, Schneider, and Heliopan are some of the leading manufacturers of filters.

Many camera owners keep a UV filter on their lens at all times to protect the lens from dust and damage. A UV filter basically has no impact on video which, unlike film, is not sensitive to the bluish cast that ultraviolet light can impart on film.

Keeping a filter mounted on your lens at all times, however, can lead to some problems in certain lighting conditions. Internal flares induced by filters are very common. Picking up dust and slight smears in your image when light hits the filter at an oblique angle is another.

I understand that folks want to protect their lens. But, personally, I only mount a filter when I really need a filter or when I'm shooting in unpredictable environments. The GL2's Flourite lens is an excellent instrument. Any piece of glass I put in front of that lens needs to make a positive contribution to the image to offset the slight degradation that it will introduce. That's just my philosophy.

Have a blast with your new camera. Let us know what you ultimately select.

I'm relatively new to the DV stuff.

What is the quality dropoff if I capture from the GL2 miniDV tape (through my Canopus card and Premiere), then record back to a new tape in my GL2.

Essentially, I have tapes of outdoor sport footage that I'm really only interested in keeping a few selected scenes for later use. The rest of the scenes are not special. I'd like to consolidate the good footage and dump the rest, while keeping the original quality.


Thanks for any guidance,

Kasey

Welcome Kasey,
There is no quality degradation whatsoever. Zero. This is a digital medium consisting of 1's and 0's rather than analog's signal strength and pulses. Writing footage back to another tape is conceptually similar to copying a computer file to another disc.

if i buy a cheap mini dv camera for inputing into my computer will the get the same quality as I get when using my GL2???
I don't want to wear out my GL2.
Thank you

Yes, if you're transferring data digitally. If you're using analog capture on the computer, your mileage will vary with the quality of the analog output electronics of your camcorder. I'm still wondering how good the video input A/D is on my Sony Vx-2000
for transfer from VHS.

I use my older JVC consumer-level camera for DV playback and Firewire transfer to my computer. As long as the "cheapie" is capable of transferring the tape without dropouts, you're set. You are still limited by the quality of the heads, which apparently can be gummed up by mixing different types of tape lubricants in the various brands of tape. People on this group recommend sticking to a single type of tape. As tempting as it is to use the battery, I use A/C power r during Firewire transfers.

I think you may have done enough damage already. :)

If it were me, I'd send them to the people who know what ther're doing. I personally don't go near cleaning cassettes at all.

Considering purchase of used Gl1 or Xl1 from online auctions where I can test before I accept.. What is the best way to test a used camera in 3 days? Also, can I purchase a warranty for it as new owner?
Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.

The safest way is to have it done by an authorized Canon Service Center (there are only two in the USA). I don't think three days is long enough... you'll have to allow for a turn-around of about five days. In short, don't bid on an online auction if you don't feel like taking the risk. Instead, consider buying a used camera from one of our members in our Private Classifieds forum here on this message board -- it's a much safer way to go. For instance, I'm about to sell my own 1998 XL1, but it'll have the documentation that shows it's been to Canon Service for a final pre-sale check-up. You can't get that from an Ebay auction. Pay the extra two bucks and avoid the hassles. Hope this helps,

Was trying to do some time-lapse (interval) photography with my GL2 over the weekend with the settings at 1 min. intervals and then .5 sec. of record time, but the blasted "auto power off" kept shutting the camera off before it could get to one min. What's up with this and how do you work around it? No mention in the manual about disabling "auto power off" or how it affects interval photography. You would think that Canon would have Interval mode disable the "auto power off". Help!
Kevin Shilts

Kevin,

Page 36 in the users manual explains how to disable the power save function. That will keep the cam powered up but stop the drive. Might be the issue. I've done time lapse and not experienced your problem but my power save is disabled.

Manual mode questions.

I basically understand setting manual mode for shutter speed and aperture from photography. However I don't understand the gain setting on the manual screen or the bar that shifts back and forth at the top of the manual screen. Can anyone offer some instruction?

(I am trying to shoot soccer games that are in typically bright sunlight, so I've played around with setting the aperture open around F2.0 and the shutter speed around 1/2000. I'm not certain if there is a better suggested setup than opening up the iris and shooting at a fast shutter speed.)

Thank you for any expertise,

Kasey

Hi there,

I am new to this forum and just ordered a xm-2 (the gl-2 equivalent for europe). I will be using it mainly to film fireworks and pyromusicals. My question is, which microphone will best fit this application ? Since it is mostly fireworks synchronised to music that I will be recording, I think the dynamic range of the mic is very important (correct me if i am wrong). And how can I solve the problem of the mic that'll get overloaded by high volume and shutting down.

Thank you in advance,

Rene

Excellent question!

Think about how the final video will be viewed and HEARD! - Alot of the issue about major event filming impact is bound up with the audio. Stereo, surround etc etc . .. .

Make a list of whayt you want to record:

1 - Audience comments - Wireless Mics

2 - "Loudspeaker" pa stuff - Ambient ??

3 - Clapping and OOhs and Ahhhs of the audience

4 - Woooshes of the fireworks

5 - Very noisey "music"

Now mix all this up and think what and how you could record it. Goes back to what and how you will go about "showing" the video when completed.

Could be that your local to cammie soiunds could be covered by a decent ambient on auto and some other stuff like radio miked-up to another channel.

Have a separate tape runing to capture all ambient big sounds and maybe get some stuff from a PA that is running.

Others will chip in here. But this is my non-pro approach. Maybe get yer hands on a simple mix desk - yeah?

BANG . . WWWWhhhooooossh . . .wwwwiiiiiIIIIIZZZZZ >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> BANG!

Grazie

Hello Kasey,
Turning-up the Gain basically increases the camera's light sensitivity. Be careful, though. Cranking it up too high will introduce noise into your image.

The bar at the top of the viewfinder display shows your exposure. "Correct" exposure, from the camera's point of view, is indicated when the arrow is in the midddle of the bar. Of course, you may have reasons for under/overexposing your image for particular purposes.

For shooting field sports action you probably want the your iris smaller to ensure that your depth of field remains large. (Ie. the amount of the playing field that remains in good focus.) That shutter speed is extremely high, too.

Good luck.

A product name and number would be great...

And also a website where I can find a good deal?

Thanks in advance!

You can buy these almost anywhere. Leo's Camera sells them in several brands, including Heliopan, B+W, Hoya (etc). peter@leoscamera.com - ask for pricing.

Hi,

Has anyone successfully used GL-2 as webcam on Windows 200?

I know the canondv site says it works only on XP. However, I installed their DV Messenger on Windows 2000 just fine. I can also use it to directly record video to hardware using say, Windows Media Encoder software. So, the video stream capture seems to work. However, I can not use it either with MSN Messenger or Yahoo messenger as a webcam.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

thanks,
Raj

I also wondered about that f2.0/2000 setting. Unless you are specifically trying to limit depth of field for creative reasons, but your focus needs to be spot on and in a fast paced soccer match I doubt it's the thing you want. Bring your aperture up to something like 4 or higher and see if you get a reasonable shutter speed. I'll leave reasonable to you. If you're shooting with the neutral density filter now you may be able to go up to f8 which may be advantageous in keeping depth of field.
Youu would only need to increase the gain if you were in low light. With adequate light I doubt you'll ever have need to adust the gain.

When taping at horse shows my GL-2 will lose focus when the horse is moving away from me in the arena and I am zooming in to keep it at constant size. In talking to other videographers at the shows I was told that Sony used to have the same problem but has now solved it (don't know if this is really true). I contacted Canon and got a totally useless reply.

Are there any techniques / workarounds that I can try to fix this? Thx.

Dave,

First, using manual focus would probably be better than letting the Autofocus hunt. Second, be sure that the apature is as small as possible to increase your depth of field. You'll need to use manual setting for that but it can make a big difference.

Dave

Rob's comments are right on, but in addition I would add this:

If you are zooming to keep the horse a constant size, then set the camera to manual focus, and prefocus during warmups at the maximum distance and max zoom that you plan to use. Now as you zoom wider -- or de-zoom in technical terms :), your camera should stay in pretty good focus (on the Gl2, the depth of field increases dramatically the wider you go, and should hold focus at virtually any distance shorter than prefocus distance)...as long as you are zooming wider as the horse gets closer.

The situation as you describe it is not really a fault of the camera, the 20x lens on the gl2 requires a lot of focus travel at the long end of the zoom (exponentially more than a 10x zoom would), and with a fast moving object like a horse, the lens is likely to fall behind, and once it does...the AF will start hunting and then the situation will usually get worse.

Barry