Magic Lantern 0.1.6 release
 

After a month of development and testing, Magic Lantern 0.1.6 is finally ready! Some of the new features:

* Custom cropmarks bitmap file
* Live histogram while recording
* Time remaining estimate indicator
* Automated focus pulls
* Focus stacking
* HDR exposure bracketing
* Lens data (hyperfocal distance, DOF, etc)
* Cleaner, multi-level menus that timeout automatically
* Audio monitoring can be turned off during clip review
* Internal mic can be used (must enable audio.mic-power=1 in config)
* Output audio volume control
* Configuration can be saved into magiclantern.cfg

It is still beta, but lots of usability bugs have been fixed since the 0.1.5 release. There is new documentation being written and new cropmarks files will be available soon.

As before, please review the Frequently Asked Questions. Bug reports can be entered in the issue tracker.

Good luck!

As one of those who has had some prerelease testing experience, I can tell you that this version is much nicer to work with !

Set up your camera for a particular shoot, and save that configuration using the menu, and you are good to go on repeated start ups using that same CF card.

As an easy example, try cutting and pasting into the config file after downloading 0.1.6. This will give you a good starting place for testing with on board mic running:

# Magic Lantern 0.1.6 (4770e23b8cd9 tip)
# Build on 2009-08-10 22:54:23 by hudson@kremvax
# Configuration saved on 2009/08/10 16:51:20
disable-powersave = 1
debug.draw-event = 0
debug.menu-timeout = 15
debug.draw-prop = 0
debug.timed-dump = 0
audio.mgain = 5
audio.dgain.l = 18
audio.dgain.r = 12
audio.mic-power = 1
audio.lovl = 3
audio.o2gain = 0
audio.alc-enable = 0
audio.mic-in = 1
audio.loopback = 1
focus.step = 100
focus.count = 5
focus.rack-speed = 4
zebra.draw = 0
zebra.level = 61440
crop.draw = 0
crop.file = A:/cropmarks.bmp
edge.draw = 0
enable-liveview = 1
hist.draw = 0
hist.x = 582
hist.y = 100
timecode.x = 520
timecode.y = 50
timecode.width = 225
timecode.height = 60
timecode.warning = 120

Ouch, this is good!

T

Focus Rack?
 

Firstly - amazing work. I can't express enough how incredible it is to have ML as a resource!

I saw Chris' 0.1.6 manual go up yesterday, and was excited to find the firmware today - so far so good - I've already setup a custom 16x9 cropmark, and been playing with the new settings.

One main question - I can't seem to activate the 'rack focus' feature - I'm able to set 'near' and 'far' points, and I've chosen the 'Rack Focus' option and hit the joystick button - but nada. Is it possible (or maybe it's already there) to activate this via a button while recording?

thanks again!

andy batt

Outstanding. Congrats to Tramm and testers!

Very nice! Can't wait to try it out.

Thanks Tramm!

Andy:

Give out some particular of what you are shooting with, includings lenses, and how you are setting things up. All this will be necessary information as this is test tested further. Remember, this is Beta, which means we are all second level testing it and information will be greatly appreciated.

Working great here, thanks!
 

Thanks, Tramm! It's working great here. I love it.

Sure -
5dM2 with Canon 1.1.0 Firmware
50mm 1.4
Magic Lantern 0.1.6

In the Focus menu, I chose "FAR",
Moved down a line to the "FOCUS A" Focused to the FAR point, and pushed the joystick in (also tried the SET button)

Left the RACK SPEED at default (also tried different values)

Focused the lens to a near point, and chose the RACK FOCUS line and hit the joystick button - to no effect.

Did try the FOCUS STACKING - that worked like a charm!

I think that covers it...

andy

My son did a rack focus shot tonight as we prepare for a 48-hour weekend. We set up a dolly and track, he pushed forward as the focus racked, we reviewed it on an HD monitor, and he pretty much jumped for joy. He had done two similar shots manually for a short film last winter, they took forever to set up, he did many takes, and they didn't look nearly as good. :)

Here's the method:

1) Zoom in
2) Manually focus the lens to one of the targets. This is best with a FTMF (full time manual focus) lens. Set the lens to AF.
3) Press the picture style button for the ML menu and go to the focus menu
4) If you focused to the near object, set the menu to FAR. If focused near, set to FAR.
5) Press the zoom button momentarily. You will see the number of steps change. Press and release, until you get in focus. Note the number, in case you go too far.
6) If you go too far, you can reset the value to zero, exit the menu, and go back to step 1.
7) Once properly set up, activate Rack Focus and it should do its thing.

If you toggle back and forth, you'll likely build up some errors. Just exit the menu, refocus one of the focus points, enter the menu, leave the same number of steps as before, and do more takes. Just make sure to set the NEAR or FAR in the direction that you will take next.

This feature kicks royal be-hind for narrative work!

Good work! I have tested the previous versions but never really used them. but now it's getting closer to actually use it.

Would it be possible to adjust the strength of the edge detection funtion? In the new version I think it's picking up to much (unsharp areas as well) which is causing a big portion of the display to be blocked by this information and it is hard to see what you are actually filming. Could there be some sort of parameter as with the zebra? For me this is important as it now is hard to use while filming.

Woooooooooooooooow!
 

I just loaded the new Magic Lantern and it's simply: wooooooooooooooooooooow!

Thaaaaaaaaaaaaaank youuuuu Tramm, you do a great job and deserve a reward!

So show your appreciation by making a donation at http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/canon-eos...tion-link.html!

Like I have said in private to you Jon and Trammel, you guys are forcing me to think about a dang autofocus lens. Jon what ones are working good for you ? Name brand Canons, others ?

Hi Chris -

If price is no object - the 35mm 1.4 L series is one of my favorites - fast, smooth, great glass, very very clean.

I have a first gen 85mm 1.2 L series - really nice lens, for all the same reasons
I did just rent the Series II 85: it has the same amazing lens quality, with an improved AF system - much faster focus, shorter throw.

On a budget, the 100mm 2.8 macro is nice. I like my 50 1.4 - but the build quality and glass doesn't compare to the L series. Also, the focus ring has become a bit stiff - had it serviced recently by canon, and it's better but it's not aging as well as the L series.

IMHO - the 16-35mm zooms are useful, but are a compromise - the series 2 is better than the original. I would steer clear of the 70-200 - it was designed a long time ago, and IMHO isn't up to the current standard.

cheers

andy

Thanks Jon - I'll give this a spin in a little bit - I appreciate the clarity of the 'how-to'

@Chris & @Tramm - you should appendix the user manual with this explanation

thanks!

andy

I started a thread on Auto Lenses for Magic Lantern. I hope Chris Hurd agrees, but I would like to see posts for best lenses for working with Magic Lantern in that thread:

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/canon-eos...n-0-1-6-a.html

I've got the EF 28/1.8, 35/2.0, 50/1.4, 85/1.8, and 200/2.8L II. I'd avoid the 35/2.0 as it's a non-USM, non-FTMF lens. It doesn't communicate all the parameters, and is a pain to set up for rack focus, though it does work.

This weekend I'll get a better feel for how accurately and repeatably the other lenses take the focus commands. Of these, I think the 50mm and 85mm are the most important, as they're the most likely to be used racking between two people in conversation. With the 200, you can focus on an object, defocus by hand and play it backwards to nail the single point. With the 28, I'm most likely to have an object in the foreground that is continually out of focus with people in the background, where focus is very forgiving.

Electronic focus aside, my favorite is the 85/1.8, and I feel that the 28/1.8 is the perfect compliment. The 200L II takes gorgeous photos, but is tight for human-scale video. Since a longer lens is most useful outdoors, the 180/3.5 Macro would be an awesome choice, given that it would cover long shots as well as super closeups. I love being able to establish characters with closeups of photos and knickknacks, as well as showing closeups of their hands at work. And we can't forget the closeup of the eye for horror films!

Andy, were you able to get this going? I have the same issue, can't get rack focus to work. I've tried both the wiki instructions and Jon's steps and can't get the focus to budge. Everything else in 0.1.6 including focus stacking works. I've tried it so far with my 24-105 and 17-40 lenses.

Chuck

Chuck, probably won't hear from Andy or Jon for a day or two. They are shooting a 48 hour contest films this weekend. Those are very intensive, and you just turn off the outside world doing them. Unfortunately, I don't have auto focus lenses, so I can't help there, and I started this thread to see what is working and what is not.

Battery Use
 

I usually leave my camera on for extended periods ot time and the power will time out and shut off. This am I picked up the camera and the battery was completely gone. Does ML continue to hold a connection even after the Canon OS does a power down? Is this why i lost juice? I'm thinking the answer is yes......

Also I will start a seperate thread on the rack focus so we can keep focused (pun intended) on that cause if i think it does what i imagine, it could be huge for my concert shooting where I do zooms.

Yes it is possible that it hasn't shut down completely. One of the continuous warnings posted in the Magic Lanter Wiki and in Manual I drafted, is that after each session with ML, shut down, and pop the battery. There is a potential the camera could loop at shut down. Did the same thing the other day myself. Battery running down is one thing, but other is potential of overheating. Seems like opening the CF door will shut it down completely.

Developers of ML are continuing to recommend that you pop the battery each time you finish. In running with the AC adapter, I have been disconnecting power only, and so far that seems to be fine.

"4) If you focused to the near object, set the menu to FAR. If focused near, set to FAR"
Is that correct?



After you set focus points, dismiss the menu, than hit record than go back to focus menu while recording and start rack focus. I cannot get the camera to record video when in the menu first time around.

Any further explanation or video of how this is done would be helpful.

hey all - I still haven't been able to do the Rack Focus - but this note adds some clarity - I'll report back.


thanks

andy

Hi Tramm - not sure how to submit this as an official feature request - so here goes:

Regarding Audio:

1- 'smart' behaviour of the presence of a plug in the AV jack : having to unplug and replug this cable to not have the camera send the video signal, and then replug to monitor is quirky, and I worry about the wear and tear on the cable and port - it would be great to set this behaviour manually

2 - Playback VS Live sound monitoring: Having to turn the Monitor ON and OFF to either listen to live sound vs playback sound. It would be great to auto switch this dependent on the state of recording (or standby) or the state of playback.

3- Level Meters during playback: did not see these during playback - can these be enabled to 'monitor' the playback as well?

thanks for the hard work!

-andy

You can add feature proposals and bug reports on the issue tracker.

There isn't anything we can do about that since the behaviour is caused by Canon's firmware before the Magic Lantern software is running. One workaround is to use an HDMI monitor since Canon will use that in preference to the A/V jack, which allows me to have my SmallHD DP1 and my headphones plugged in all the time on the set.

It's in the proposal list for the next version: issue 77. I need to figure out what events are generated when the camera switches from liveview mode to playback mode so that we can make intelligent decisions about audio monitoring.

Also in the list for the next version: issue 51. As well as hiding the meters during review of still images since they obscure the exposure info on the top of the screen.

Congratulations on finishing your movie 2 minutes early! We were still burning ours to the DVD while inline to hand it in earlier this year.

I'll need to get a SmallHD or Ikan for the next go-round then. I was under the impression that the HDMI can be used for playback, but that live monitoring wasn't possible?

-andy

Live monitoring works on HDMI, with some caveats. It outputs very nice 1080i while framing and composing the shots, but once you hit record it drops to 480p. I spent much of the weekend hacking on this, but was unsuccessful at fixing it this time.

Does the monitor autosense this and deal with it smoothly? Would an Ikan or Marshall react differently than a SmallHD?

I have found that I can get best recording situation using an HDMI monitor, set to 4:3.

If I am using an SD and have to go out through the AV port, I also use a 4:3 setting on the monitor.

In using HDMI, there is a delay as the camera resets its output to SD. Can't seem to change that. In that process, if you have your monitor set at 4:3, your letterbox will come up the proper aspect ratio.

In SD out the AV, the 4:3 setting of the monitor formats aspect ratio properly at both framing and shot. Thats fine, but a negative to the monitor from the AV port is the feed back that gets recorded to the audio track.

Hi Chris,

I pasted the configuration you posted into the config file and now I am getting sound in my 5D2. Before when I was using the stock ML, there is only static when recording video. Now that I am getting sound again, just wondering how the sound quality is compared to the original stock 5D2 audio recording now that the AGC is disabled. Or its the same? I am planning on getting the Juicelink but for now I can only compare with the stock audio but to me it sounds about the same. Thanks.

Alex

Alex:

There is no change in the mic and audio quality. The only thing that changes is that Auto gain is disabled. That means you won't have that horrible hiss start going up in volume during silent parts of ou shooting. With the level control, you can raise or lower gain, even on the camera mic. it does not change the fact that you will be picking up camera noise and such either. So best bet, as with any sound recording is to get mic off camera and closer to your subject.

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the quick answer. The sound does improve. Less hissy noise. I guess I need the Juicelink to get the same kind of audio you hear like what Jon did with the tests.

Can't wait to get myself a JL.

What does this 1080i mean? Will we be able to use 1080 rez output with one of these toys for external recording?

Convergent Design - nanoFlash - Professional HD/SD Recorder/Player

KI PRO - AJA Video - Serial Digital Video Interface and Conversion

If you send me one, I will let you know.....:)

I still can't get rack focus to work; tried everything I can think of. My thoughts at this time:
a. I'm doing something wrong, or
b. There is a bug, or
c. My camera/lens is somehow different than the test cameras

Charles, what lens are you using?

I've tried the 24-105L and 17-40L. Have not tried other lenses yet.

Unfortunately, those don't overlap with my lenses (28/1.8, 35/2, 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 200/2.8 L II). Has anybody else had success with the zooms? Certainly somebody has tried e-rack focus with the kit lens.

I just got a cheap 28-80 Canon zoom and was able to come up with this How To that I added to the Magic Lantern Manual. See if this explanation helps. Jon, and others, check me out, cause I just got my lens, and may still be misunderstanding process as intended.

How it Works: Now that you know what the buttons are about, here is how you make it work:

1. After opening the focus menu, pick the end point of you focus, focusing manually with your lens on that point.


2. Next on the Focus Menu, select the direction you will have to focus to in order to find the start point. If the start point is a closer focus, pick Near, if it a farther away focus point, pick Far. ( Remember, you are simply telling camera which direction to go to find the start point.)


3. Next, scroll down to Focus A. You need to zero this setting out, before going on. Press "Set" to zero it out.


4. Once that is completed you will use the Zoom + button in the very right hand upper corner of the back of the camera to move the focus point to your start point. You will need to watch the screen closely to make sure you reach the proper point.


5. Next select the time period of the pull, by scrolling down to rack speed. The lower the number, the longer the rack will take. It is recommended for testing purposes to start around 20.


6. Once that is done, you need to exit the Magic Lantern Menu, to start the camera recording


7. Once the camera is recording, re-enter the Magic Lantern Focus Menu, and scroll to Rack Focus. To start the rack focus, press "Set". You should see the rack focus commence and complete its cycle.


8. To return to the beginning point, you can press Set again to return to that point once again.