never mind
I think I misunderstood the post I was replying to. |
The main issue I see is that we're concerned with the shutter passing 1/48, but reports in this thread are saying it's sticking close to it.
Is that what most others are finding? (How do we check again?) |
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Yes, but don't forget you can lock it in 1/48 by locking the total exposure. Again, other are setting an exposure by using a cell phone screen, or a PS2 screen to lcok the exposure, and then use the exposure adjustment to open up a bit. They can monitor the shutter speed by half way depressing the photo button and see what the Canon adjustments are as the exposure is adjusted.
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Found this: http://videotreffpunkt.com/thread.php?threadid=2488 a really nifty software that tells you the gain so you can calibrate your cam.
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can anybody translate the above link ( post 80)
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I used Babelfish - inputted the URL and it translated to loose english. It was a bit too much to post here, and it should be it's own thread if it's going to be of interest. Personally, I think it looks to be more trouble than it's worth, but thank you for sharing Greg.
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/tr |
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Now, if I could only figure out how to lock the exposure at 1/48... |
Let me know if anyone needs a specific translation from German (from the mentioned website). I just hope my english is good enough for you...! ;)
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best, elmer ps now if you could translate a couple Thomas Mann novels... |
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Also, I'm a bit confused, nothing new I admit, but from "Again" in your post I don't quite get what you mean. Is that the way to lock exposure or to get more latitude in the settings? And not having a cell phone or a PS2 (yes, I live in a cave) why wouldn't a sheet of white paper do? jus' curious, lmr |
It would have to be an evenly, brightly illuminated sheet of white paper to work.
Roughly translated, the goal is to saturate the sensor with enough light to force it (the automatic controls) to close everything up (high F-stop/high shutter speed) and turn down the electrical gain (because it's so bright). Then with exposure locked you have as much manual control over the optical system (by way of the Exposure setting) as you can get before electrical gain kicks in. ...At least that's my understanding of how things are working. Aside: I've found the white background of my video iPod works too. Andrew. (edited to change "open everything up" to "close everything up" and "low F-stop" to "high F-stop") |
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The point is before you activate exposure adjustment by depressing the joystick, you can first lock it in a non gain mode by pointing it a a fairly bright light source. As you are doing that, you activate exposure using joystick, at at that point, the camera is locked at the current exposure. You can then use the joystick to slide up and down the exposure. Eventually as you go to the plus side of exposure, you are going to break back into the gain being added, but at least this gives you a choice. If your scene is dark, you can make the choice of adding the exposure adjustment up. What people are saying here, is they want to have situation where or the ability to let the shadows go black, without camera trying to adjust exposure. |
Andrew and Chris describe it well - of course, it helped I saw the Quicktime video they're referring to too - highly recommend everyone watches it!
http://www.dvinfo.net/media/canon/hv...urecontrol.mov Patrick Jennings video about HV20 aperture control. I'd think pointing at the sun should work too ;) |
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