There most certainly is a difference between no coating, coating, multi-coating and super multi-coating Alex. If you genuinely intend to replace your front element with another (i.e. add a UV filter) then make sure it has *the* very best SMC you can buy. The front element of any multi-element lineup is the most important element as far as coatings are concerned.

You'd not have bought your camera if it had a so-so coated front element when the same model alongside it was supplied with the beautiful Zeiss T* coatings.

Let's look at still photographers - they're dealing with focal lengths in the order, say, of 50 mm. A camcorder such as Sony's PDX10 will have a focal length of 3.6 mm to give the same field of view, and it's precisely because we're dealing with these very tiny focal lengths that I say you should beware of fitting filters, any filters.

If you attach a 0.5x wide-angle converter to the PDX10 you're suddenly
working at a focal length of 1.8 mm. Hold your fingertips 1.8 mm (3/32")
apart to appreciate the situation. Depth of field, whatever the aperture
used, will be enormous, often happily extending to cover both sides of any
attached filter.

When a filter is beautifully coated, spotlessly clean and well hooded all is
well. In the real world this is frequently not the case. The 'well hooded'
aspect is the one we all fall down on, simply because although we all use a
beautifully designed, multi-part, shadowed hood it has only been designed to work properly at the wide-angle end of our long 10x zooms.

tom.

Thanks, Tom. So you suggest super multi-coating over multi-coating and no coating. How discernable are the differences in the real, practical world though? Also, when you say well-hooded, do you mean that a LH77 from Cavision used in conjunction with the Sony wideangle Y lens and a good 82mm UV filter won't work well if I zoom in? How would one fix this problem?

Also, what about the grades, such as UV(0)? What does that mean? And why are some of them labeled as non-applicable?

The Lanc controller questions are still unanswered as well.

Back to basics Alex. For starters you don't need a UV filter. Glass in itself absorbs UV, so adding another element to the element lineup in front of the chip is quite unnecessary.

Now then, you've bought a Sony camera with a 10 x zoom lens (I'm guessing
here). This lens most probably has 12 individual elements in the line-up,
with two of them aspherical. All of these elements will be multi coated,
and *the* most important element (from a coating point of view) is the front
one.

It's the best lens Sony can give you at the price. If they thought that adding a $45 UV would improve the performance, they'd have included one. So remember, if you plan to add another element to the line-up of 12 you
already have, make sure it's the very finest you can buy, with the best
super multi-coating on offer.

I have two identical VX2000s, one fitted with an uncoated UV and the other
with no filter. In contrasty light (not into the light, mind) and in 20 seconds flat I can convince any one of you out there to unscrew the UV and skim it out over the lake, never to be seen again. Yes, the differences are easily discernable in the real, practical world, I promise you.

So remember this: filters only take away. So use filters when you must, and
remove them if you want the best picture quality. There are times of 'must', which include dusty or smoky atmospheres, sticky children's parties and so on, but generally I'd say beware of putting anything in front of your lens. A sorry to all those that have read this before.

If you were shooting from a stationary car, you'd instinctively roll down the window, and for good reason.

UV(0) simply means it has no affect on exposure. Skylight filters absorb 1/3 rd of a stop, polarisors 1.5 stops. Lens hoods are only designed to be efficient at wide-angle - as you zoom the hood needs to 'grow longer' to keep efficiency high. Some collapsible Hoya hoods allow you to extend them for telephoto work - a very good idea.

I use a Zoe controller, and love it.

tom.

Thanks again for all the info, Tom, but because I am a newcomer, I have elementary questions. If a UV filter is not necessary, how come they make UV filters at all? What are the differences between a Skylight filter and a UV filter?

How does the Zoe controller compare to the other three I listed above?
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...ughType=search

I guess some of the functions I would really like to have work with the A1 are:
zoom in/out (preferable with throttle setting available) (Varizoom rocker style over the stick kind found on the Varizoom Stealth models)
start/stop rec
data on/off
push auto focus
focus

and F-/F+ (even if it doens't work with A1)

Keep asking the questions Alex.
UV filters are sold because there's a demand for them. Uncoated filters are sold because people are unaware of the image degredation they cause and because they're cheap. UV filters are great mechanical insurance protection for when you're in a sand storm, filming in the surf, down at the level of the inquisitive sticky-fingered kids. When you're in clean air you don't need them, though some people still like the 'peace of mind' even at the expense of image flare.

A skylight filter is very slightly pink, though no two are the same shade of pink, so a Tiffen will look different from a Hoya or a B & W. That's the maker's name, not black and white, BTW. Skylight filters were popular in the days of Ektachrome slide film, where you got back and projected what you shot. So to warm that 'cold' film, permanent skylight filters were very popular. And as I've explained, using them on 35 mm cameras has a far less degrading effect than on tiny chipped video cameras.

I tested the Steath and the Rock for a British magazine and found them both faulty, then received a lot of verbal from the firm's MD for daring to say so in print. My editor also received the same sort of abuse. Consequently I can't hand on heart recommend them, though my 'prototype testing' for the firm may well have got the problem sorted.

tom.

That is too cool! Yeah, that is the one to get.

Tom, what did you find faulty about the Varizoom Rock and Stealth Lanc controllers? And does the Zoe controller you have allow for the functions I listed?

Also, if you're using a filter as protection against nature's elements or sticky children, wouldn't the filter itself become messed up, even if your lens stays safe? Which would be confusing to me because the good UV filters cost nearly as much as the Sony wideangle Y lens I would be trying to protect.

Both the Varizoom models put little tiny steps into the slowest zoom, where they jerked forward. They also started zooming all by themselves, with no hands on any buttons. Not good. I tried them on 3 different Sony camcorders with the same result. I'm sure they've fixed the problem now - it appears to be a fault with the display LEDs.

The Zoe might well be for you, but you'd better test it out first.

Yes, your expensive UV can get messed up, but you can wash it under the kitchen tap with a tiny drop of washing up liquid between your fingertips.

tom.

I'm now looking at the Varizoom VZ-Pro-L controller: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...ughType=search

I like this controller because of the separate speed dial, but that it still has a pressure-sensitive rocker confuses me. Isn't the point of a speed dial to eliminate pressure-sensitivity, so that you can get more precise zoom speeds? How would the pressure rocker work in conjunction with the speed dial? If I set the speed dial for a certain speed, but then played around by putting more and then less pressure on the rocker, would the zoom speed be the one I set on the speed dial or the one I told it to do via pressure control?

I would have liked the VZ-Pro-LX more than the VZ-Pro-L, but it doesn't look like BH Photo Video offers those for purchase, nor do they offer the PG series.

Unfortunately, I won't be able to try out any of these controllers (including the Zoe) personally and have to make a purchase in less than 2 days. I was able to try out the Varizoom Rock controllers though, and it didn't seem to have any of the problems you mentioned, but the fact that it is pressure-sensitive still irks me.

Any insight? What I'm looking for are precise zoom speeds without having to worry about my finger accidentally putting more or less pressure on the rocker/switch, auto to manual/manual to auto switching at the push of a button, start/stop recording, and push to auto focus (which I hear is a valuable function, but I still don't really understand the concept, or, what push to auto focus even is/what it does). Things like frame advance/reverse are nice, but I don't think are necessary at all, so it's only a small consideration for me. Same with the data button, not a huge concern.

As far as the UV filters offering protection...even if I washed it, if it obtained scratches, how would washing it in a sink with detergent help? Wouldn't the scratches still be there?

Yes, you bin the UV if it gets scratched and buy another. Cheaper and a lot easier than replacing your front element, believe me. If you've got an HC1 you might find that fitting a UV stops you re-applying the stock lens hood. The A1 is better in that it has a proper hood (it doesn't have to be made smaller simply because there's a pop-up flash gun on board). Lord, the consessions we make to the still shots...

If your cam has a 'push auto' button on the lens barrel then you can be in manual focus, ok. Then you push that little button and the camera drops into the auto focus mode. When you let go of the button it reverts to locked focus. An excellent idea, but most times pushing the button on the cam jiggles the shot, whereas if it's on the LANC remote all should be well.

The Zoe has a speed wheel. You set it to the maximum speed you want your lens to zoom, so if you only wanted a creep zoom you turn the dial and set it. Then - whatever pressure you apply to the rocker, you lens will only creep zoom. Great in stressful situations. All clear now?

tom.

Thanks, Tom, you've been a good source of information. Hopefully this will be my last round of questions:
1. Where is the speed dial located on the Zoe controller? I don't see it in the pictures I found of the controller.
2. So, if I set the speed dial at say, a zoom speed of 3 out of 10, where 10 is the fastest zoom and 1 is a the slowest, creep/crawl zoom, no matter what pressure I apply to the rocker, it will only zoom at speed 3? I ask this because you specifically only mentioned the slowest creep zoom, where that would be set as the maximum zoom speed on the speed dial. So even if I pressed the rocker softer or harder, it wouldn't make a difference as the creep speed has been set as the maximum speed. But if I had a speed setting of 3 and I pressed the rocker softer, would it possibly vary between speeds of 1-3, or would it be locked onto speed 3 no matter how much or how little pressure I put on the rocker?
3. As I am pushing the rocker to zoom in, I can also simultaneously adjust the speed dial to achieve variable zoom speed, correct?
4. I read in an article here that the Zoe controller has audible clicks when you press the buttons on the 2003 Zoe model. Is the Zoe controller on BH a 2003 model, or is it a newer model that has fixed the problem of audible clicking?

Time you did some reading Alex.

http://www.digitalprods.com/Zoereview2.htm

http://www.dvinfo.net/articles/camaccs/zoedvlanc2.php

The answer is yes to your question, however hard you push on that rocker, and at whatever speed you jab at the rocker, the camera will not go above that setting. Say you've set the halfway point, then you can accelerate gently up to that point, but the lens won't zoom faster than that point.

Not sure if you can zoom while at the same time alter the max setting, but I'd hazard a guess and say yes. One is using a LANC protocol, the other is a controller dial. I have been caught out though - needing a crash zoom to get me in tight and fast. So now I never use that wheel - the rocker is so delightfully long travel and sensitive I simply don't need it.

My 2005 Zoe has silent buttons.

tom.

And here's another:

http://www.bebob.de/international/zoe_dvl_eng.html

I could send you my own review printed in FVM if you like.

tom.

Thanks for the links to the reviews.

The first review says the Zoe controller has a Maximum Speed Reduction function (MSR), which is not a speed control dial, but a speed limiter. What does that mean? How, if it is, is a speed control dial better than a speed limiter?

Perhaps you could really quickly test it for me if the Zoe controller can indeed adjust the MSR to a higher maximum speed (and lower max speed) while simultaneously zooming. It would be a great bit of info in my consideration.

In your "caught out" situation, if you could quickly adjust the MSR speed to a higher (or even the highest) speed allowed while zooming, then wouldn't that solve the problem?

It also seems that the orientation of the MSR wheel (vertical) poses a problem with operating easily, and that the MSR function isn't able to record a particular speed setting to use again at a later time.

Yes, Tom, your own review would be awesome too. Thanks!

I'm good to you. aren't I Alex? I've rigged up the kit and yes indeed, you can apply max pressure on the rocker and vary the zoom speed by using the knurled wheel as a 'volume control' Neat! So it's all things - a max speed control dial as well as a speed control dial.

Yes to your last para - there's no markings on the wheel, though you could add them with white dots if you wanted to.

I'll see if I can get the review to your email address.

tom.

Thanks a lot for all your help. Really appreciate it. It seems like the debate now is between the 2005 Zoe controller and the Varizoom VZ-Pro-L or Pro-LZ controller, but I think I'm liking the Zoe more, even if expensive. It doesn't look like BH carries the 2005 Zoe controller though, and the 2003 one is out of stock (not to mention it doesn't have the MSR, which I think is very important, although its vertical orientation seems very irritating to me).

The second review link you posted mentioned that the 2005 Zoe controller is about 1-1/8" thick, and as such, poses a problem because it might be hard for people with small to medium sized hands (which is me) to reach the top buttons easily. Do you find this to be a real problem?

Just read your review, thanks. Last question: where can I buy the 2005 Zoe controller?

I got a deal at: (email) enquiries@prokit.co.uk

London W4 5PY
020 8995 4664

Look! A Newbie!
 

Hello everyone! I'm a film student in Orlando, Florida and I've been considering and saving up for a camera for some time now and after about 3 weeks of comparing prices and features, the HVR-A1U was the best band for the buck. I purchased it yesterday and it should be here tomorrow (and I can't wait).

Now I'm on a accessory kick! I looked into everything that Laurence had on his camera (which is amazing by the way) and it totals to be around $1650 plus shipping for everything. That's a bit much then what I have to spend, so I was wondering what would be the "essential" pieces for doing short films. I also, this summer, plan on getting into the wedding videography business. I was thinking:

The light, diffuser, Microphone kit (cause it has a lavaliere and a standard XLR connection), the Spiderbrace, a lanc controller (don't know which one yet...) and I think that's about it?

Also, when it comes to filters, what are the absolute necessary ones do you recommend? Thanks guys! This thread has been an awesome help!

Hey man, I'm also from Orlando, Florida. I am now studying in Boston though; but I am always going back home.

I have the HDR-A1U (you're going to love it) and I have already purchased some accessories for it. First thing I got was 2 NP71D batteries. I got them from eBay and paid $38 for each. I also purchase the Sony "Y" wide-angle lens, which I feel is a must-have. The last thing I purchased for it was the SpiderBrace and the tripod adapter. The same one that Laurence has. I absolutely love that thing, and I highly recommend it. Other than that, I have some tapes and a cheap tripod (Velbon CX-570, which by the way works beautifully).

I am planning on getting the same light and diffuser that Laurence has soon. I am still skeptical about getting the lanc controller as I don't plan on doing a lot of zooming during my taping. I am also getting the AT88W wireless mic set which I hear is quite good for the price ($130ish). Last thing I am getting is a new microphone. I am split between the Sennheiser ME64 and the Rode NTG-1.

I recommend you look for these items on www.shopping.com. I have found amazing deals there.

Hope this helps,

-Alex K.

There are no absolutely necessary filters Alex. The polarisor is difficult to replicate in post, but the HC1 has its own built-in ND and a UV isn't really necessary

can i just get a beachtek adapter for my hc1 not a1 and have this same rode mic and wreless set up. i mean thats the only real diffrence with these cams right? set up looks real cool by the way. wouldn't the picture from a fx1 be alot better though?

Hehe, Tom H., I think you got the names mixed up. Don't you mean Adam?

Anyways, Adam, I'm going through the same thing as you. I want to get the A1 camera (soon, because 3/31 is the last day for the rebate), but I want to order the necessary accessories for it to save on shipping, and just so I can have everything I need right now all at once.

I'm definitely getting these:
Spiderbrace 2
at least one microphone, maybe both (Rode NTG-1 with Rode SM3 shockmount and 1.5 feet long right-angle XLR cable, or Sennheiser ME64/K6)
one extra Sony NP-QM71D battery

debating:
another 71D battery
Rode NTG-1/2 windscreen (or will the windscreen on the included Sony mic work okay?)
windscreen for Senn ME/64?
Zoe 2005 Lanc controller or Varizoom VZ-Pro-L or VZ-Pro-LX controller
Hoya 82mm Super Multi-coated UV(0) Filter (only needed if I get the Sony Y lens)
LH77 lens hood from Cavision (only needed if I get the Sony Y lens)
Tripod adaptor (annoying to change tapes, but maybe I can live and save $30)
Sony wideangle Y lens (I'm not sure how often I'd really use a wideangle lens)
some sort of fluid head tripod (but I feel the Spiderbrace should be fine)
video light (I hesistant on the same one Laurence has because I've read posts here about it only being able to light up 8-10 feet, so even though 20W is pretty blinding, I looking at 35-40W with a diffuser)

Tom J., there are other differences that I feel are significant between the HC1 and A1, such as a different shoe, blackstretch, lens hood, etc.

I think footage from an FX1 is about the same as HC1/A1 footage if shot with enough light, although apparently some models of the HC1/A1 have bad red color accuracy and they do perform poorly in low light.

fx1 same as hc1 how can this be...that is a 3 chip camera shouldn't it be much much better

It's not the exact same, of course not. But from what I've seen, footage from the FX1 and HC1/A1, if shot with sufficient lighting, can be interchanged and mixed pretty successfully. Don't knock on the HC1/A1 not having 3 CCDs, it has 1 CMOS sensor, which is different.

not knocking it i have one myself

I see, well, in any case then, HC1/A1 footage is definitely comparable to FX1 footage. Some say the HC1/A1 is a bit on the cool side, and some models seem to have a red color inaccuracy, but other than that, I think the footage is pretty nice.

Thanks Laurence for sharing your setup. Here's a few pics of my A1U and Spiderbrace combo. I love the Spiderbrace... my dad's who's very amateur got super-steady shots of my daughter right after she was born using it:

http://homepage.mac.com/rotomas/PhotoAlbum22.html

I did do a few easy modifications to it, and I'm not the modification kind of guy so any one could do these. I drilled a hole through the base of the Spiderbrace and used the camera's shoulder strap so I could rest the brace on my chest when I'm not using it. I also drilled a small hole for the Varizoom cord so that the excess is stashed away inside the body.

What do you guys think of where I have the light placed? The diffuser is in the right position like this, I'm just a little worried about shadows from not having the light directly in line with the lens.

Anyways just thought I'd share.

Well the two light bulbs side by side make more sense with the widescreen aspect ratio of the A1. I'd be worried about shadows from the Spiderbrace handles though. On top isn't an ideal position either. I get shadows from the microphone and it's fuzzy cover.

Yeah the Spiderbrace is cool isn't it. I just shot some zoomed in video of my friend windsurfing. I was amazed at how steady it was zoomed all the way in (with a .7 wide angle lens).

It looks as if you've found a hard plastic diffuser that simply pushes on and stays on Roger. Can you specify the make and type as this looks a neater solution than my Lumiquest 'velcro-on' version.

I have my 20DW2 lamp above the lens and on axis with it. Even with both lamps on and the diffuser in place I find the shadows unnatural if the lamp is placed anywhere else, so I'd be interested to hear your real-world results.

Your pictures were a bit dark and hard to see this end.
Alex, I mean Adam. Well spotted.

tom.

It's the same one Laurence used, the Sto-Fen Omni Bounce difussor. It's actually made for a Canon still photo flash, but it fits on the 20WD2 pretty well.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...u=89908&is=REG

Tripod adapter for Sony HDV HDR-HC1 HVR-A1
 

Can someone post a picture of the tripod adapter I want to see if it will work with my bogen 501.

Just go to the first page of this thread and see Laurence's post where he lists and links the items.

I Looked at all the pics. You really can not see any detail on the adapter. I went to the link on ebay but you can’t see it there either the hand and tape are in the way. A closeup of just the adapter would be nice. If it is too much trouble that’s cool.

If you want a closer look at the offset adapter:
http://dm-accessories.com/gr_hdr/shimbottom.jpg
http://dm-accessories.com/gr_hdr/shimtop.jpg

Sorry, I didn't think to put a ruler in the pictures. At any rate. if what you screw it to is less than 55mm from the screw point to the right edge, it will work. For larger than 55mm, then the PRO or PROA is what you want.

How you measure it:
http://dm-accessories.com/gr_hdr/measure.jpg

The little side offset adapter might work with a 501 if you eject the quick release. My previous notes on compatibility didn't consider ejecting the quick release block.

The PRO and PROA models I make save that step, several of my customers needed to cut down the tape change to as few seconds as possible. The 501's head is just too wide to offset to the side enough like that to remove tapes with a single step, so I made a riser-type adapter.

You can find info on alternative options here:
http://dm-accessories.com/index.php

Click on the item thumbnail for the PRO or PROA to see a description of those adapters.

Now that was very helpful I appreciate all your help.

It looks like I need the pro model. I will be ordering one today.

Hey guys! Few questions... :-P

So I'm looking into a nice wide angle lens for this puppy and I had a question. Laurence uses the Sony VCL-HG0737Y:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...=396837&is=REG

But the Sony site recommends the VCL-HG0737X Wide angle found here:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...=225837&is=REG

Sony recommends the 737X here for the A1U:
http://bssc.sel.sony.com/Broadcastan...Model?id=80897

Also, if I do decide to get the X model, what sunshade could I get with it? Would I be able to use the one that Laurence posted ? Thanks!

I have both models (I use the VCL-HG0737X with my old TRV20). Here's what you need to know about both lenses:

They both produce an excellent (and equal as far as I can tell) image.

You can use either lens on any camera with a 37mm thread.

The VCL-HG0737Y lens is a tiny bit bigger around, so the sunshade fit will not be the same. You can probably just use a thicker adapter ring. I'd call Cavision to be sure.

The VCL-HG0737Y lens looks better on the new Sony HDV cameras. This may or may not be important to you, but it is important to me. I may not care about holes in my jean shorts or wearing a ragged t-shirt, but I do like my equipment to look top notch.

The 0.7, 0.5 and 0.3 Raynox lenses (priced here)
http://www.jessops.com/search/dointellisearch.cfm
work very well indeed in the HC1 / A1. They're single element, clip-on lenses with beautiful coating and the price is simply amazing for the quality of the results they produce.

tom.