this address might take you closer:
http://tinyurl.com/hhbgn

I love this thread...
 

I return to it again and again...

Anyway, I need to step up my wireless-lav mic game, and I since you know a bit about mics, Laurence, I was hoping to hear what the process was in deciding on the Sennheiser Evolution G2 100...

Seems like a good value - how's the 'sound' to you?

If both are made by Sony and are the same, why would any fool want to pay an additional $50 for the Y model instead of the cheaper X model???

Quality of image.

The Raynox lenses aren't zoom through. You need to pop them off if you are going to zoom.

That's correct. They zoom to about 6X (of the 10x zoom) at which point they blur instantly. This sudden blur gives a beautiful effect if used in a cross dissolve, I've found.

So I think I've settles on the Sony VCL-HG0737Y wide angle lens because after thinking about it, the professional look of equipment means quite a bit to a client and the black on black does look the best.

Also, when it comes to sun shades and lens hoods, which one is better? What are the differences exactly between Laurence's Century Optics DSFA8200 and the CA Vision LH77? Are there differences? Can both take 82mm filters? Thanks!


<-- still a little confused :-P

The best hood is an aspect ratio hood, of which the 'petal' hoods seen on many still camera wide-angles is a derivitave. So if you're shooting 16:9 you should really get a 16:9 hood that *just* avoids vignetting the full frame image (as seen in your NLE preview window.

tom.

I would go with the cA LH77. It's cheaper and is made of flexible rubber that will take a bump gracefully. Both will fit the same 82mm filters. The Century Optics DSFA8200 provides a hair more shade, but I don't think it is worth the extra money and you need to order the adapter ring from Cavision anyway.

The LH77 also doesn't require the adapter ring that the LH80 does, as it is specifically manufactured to fit the "Y" lens.

I just ordered it from them, still haven't received it. I'll post pictures when it arrives.

How do you order from Cavision via email? I filled everything out except for the shipping charges and total cost (because I don't know the shipping charges). How do I find out how much they charge for shipping and handling and what carrier and service they will use? I put in a special request for the cheapest carrier and cheapest service, but still, how do I fill out the form and send it to them?

Also, how do I sign the email order form? Do I just type my name in and have it act as an electronic signature, rather than signing it with an actual pen and somehow scanning the image of my actual signature in/pasting it into the form?

Is the LH77 hood a 16:9 hood? What are other hoods? 4:3? What if I want to be able to shoot both 16:9 and 4:3, depending on my mood and use the same lens hood with the Sony Wideangle Y lens? When I'm downconverting to SD from HD, I usually want a 4:3 aspect ratio, so would my lens hood affect that?

Tom, could you explain what an aspect ratio hood is, and what petals are? And what you mean by getting a hood that just avoids vignetting the full frame image? Is the LH77 an aspect ratio hood? And/or does it just barely avoid vignetting?

Also, how does the Rode SM3 shockmount differ/compare to the Rode SM5 shockmount? How does the SM5 clamp onto the A1?

I bought my Cavision 0.5x wide-angle converter and the matching 4:3 LH-100P hood from a dealer, not from Cavision direct.

Back to basics. Why do I need a lens hood?

OK, try this. Get an old UV filter. It doesn't have to screw in, holding it up in front of your camera is ok for this test. Make sure the filter is a bit dusty and includes a fingerprint or two. Now go out into the sunshine and make sure sunlight is falling on the filter. Zoom to wide-angle and aim at the shadows. See all those blurry spots and nasties in your v'finder? Now simply shield the filter from the sun. Use your hand as a flag or hood, or step back into the shadow of a tree or building. Aim at the same spot as before. See how - using the same dusty filter, the image is miracuously cleaned up?

So simple, so effective. There's no accessory you can buy that offers as much bang for the buck as a simple and effective lens hood. The best ones are 'shadowed' hoods. Look at the Sony VX2000 hood to see what I mean. Even with sunlight hitting the inside of the hood the in-built mask keeps it dark in there. Excellent!

A lens hood is designed to do one thing only, and that is to shadow the front element in its entirety. If at the same time it keeps the rain off the glass and lets you bump gently into trees as you track forward, all well and good.

So to keep the front element in shadow you need the deepest hood possible. Of course with wide-angle lenses this is difficult - to be deep would mean they would be huge as the lens is seeing so wide. So a 'petal' hood is used, and this is really a cylindrical hood with the corners cut away, so making the hood look somewhat like a tulip with four petals.

To efficiently hood the front element you should use a hood that matches your filming format - so use a 16:9 hood with 16:9 filming. Of course you don't have to, but if you use a 4:3 hood and film 16:9 you're not shielding the front element as much as you could do.

Lots of camcorders these days actually mask the front element. Have a look at the DVX100 Panasonic to see what I mean. I apply black insulating tape to my UV filter in the same way - it cuts down on the amount of 'non image-forming light' that gets into your zoom lens, bounces around unchecked and dilutes the image with flare.

If you have a hood that's too long, when you zoom back to full wide the chips might 'see' inside the hood. This will vignette the image (gives black edges to your picture) but you might not see this on TV or in the cam's v'finder, which is why I say check for vignetting on your computer monitor, which will show you the entire frame as recorded, and not the masked4TV image you see in the v'finder.

Hope this clears things up. Always worth asking questions.

tom.

I've seen pics of the VX2000 hood, but still don't understand what makes it a shadowed hoods as opposed to non-shadowed hoods. Could you link to some pics of a non-shadowed hood and explain the differences? Also, a link to a pic of a petal hood would be helpful.

So from what I'm understanding, you're saying that a 16:9 hood shields the front element best when filming in 16:9 format, and a 4:3 hood shields it best for filming 4:3 format - but what is the reason behind this? Why wouldn't a 4:3 hood work at its full potential when filming 16:9 or vise versa?

I'm also unsure what you mean by "mask" the front element? I've checked out the lens hood on the DVX100, but I still don't understand what you mean.

Lastly, why does the viewfinder and/or LCD screen not show the entire frame you are recording, and why a TV screen will show everything? Wouldn't you want to see everythign you're recording in the viewfinder/LCD screen, or how can you frame your shots correctly?

Sorry for all these n00b questions. I only started getting into this stuff not too long ago.

Still wondering how to order from Cavision via email directly too, and what the difference between the Rode SM3 and SM5 are.

Lots of questions Alex. Here's tom's take.

TV's have always masked down the broadcast picture. It's historical really - early TVs used to 'shrink' the picture if the start of scene B was a lot brighter than the end of scene A. It was due to the CRT taking more than the feeble power supplies could muster. Masking meant you didn't see scene B as smaller than your TV's screen.

TVs nowadays don't need to mask the image, but they still do. Your editing program should show clearly the title safe and TV safe areas as rectangular marks within your DV frame. Camcorders still mask the image, and pretty drastically sometimes. I hate this picture masking as it robs me of the expensive wide-angle I've paid for. Some projectors don't mask and the Z1 can be switched to show the entire frame as you shoot - an excellent idea.

Look at the lens hood on the Canon GL1 or XL1s. These are rectangular, aspect ratio, black and internally ribbed. Good. Now if you shoot in sunlight, light will fall onto this inner surface of the hood, illuminating it quite brightly. This bright surface (ribbed and black to try and avoid reflections) sure does reflect light back, and this can be 'seen' by the front element. It causes flare - i.e. it dilutes the image contrast.

Now look at the VX2000's shadowed hood. A rectangular mask attempts to block sunlight from even entering the hood, such that even in bright sunlight, the interior surfaces of the hood are pretty dark. Result - much less flare. Downside? Much higher build cost. The Sony aperture mask alone is comprised of 6 parts, the hood adding a further four. This is money Canon don't bother to spend.

Go back and look at the DVX100 - or any of the Panasonic cams for that matter. Take a look at the circular front element - notice how there's a straight edged mask in front of the glass that stops you seeing the entire element? This is very often ribbed and black to keep out non image-forming light.

This is getting long-winded, but take it from me Alex, you should hood your camera to match your aspect ratio. And remember this - the lens hoods on our camcorders are only designed to work efficiently at the wide-angle end of the zoom. The more telephoto work you do, the less efficient is the stock hood. That's why Hoya's collapsible hood is such a good idea - you can make it a long black cylinder in front of your lens when you're on safari and using long focal lengths all the time.

tom.

Question: Does anyone (or can anyone) have a picture of the Sony Y lens with the Cavision LH77 on it? I was hoping to see what it looked like. Also, the LH77 is a 16:9 lens hood, isnt it?

Hey Adam,

I'll have it soon. It should be arriving today (04/10) or tomorrow.

My setup is almost complete. All I need is my LH77 lens hood and the ME64 or NTG1 microphone. I have pretty much the same setup as Laurence with some modifications. I have a much cheaper (and worse) wireless set. I got the AT 88W PRO set, which is perfect for my needs. I find the quality of the sound quite amazing.

By the way Laurence, I purchased the same adapter to attach the wireless set like yours, but I don't quite understand how you got it to hook like that. Do you think you could explain how you got it to attach like you did on the SpiderBrace?

Where did you order your Cavision hood from? I can’t find it at B&H.

Probably directly from cavision, but I have no idea how to fill out the email form. I've asked about this before, but no one answered, so let's try again.

The email form has three parts that I don't know how to fill out:
1. Shipping cost/method: how should I know? I don't know the cost, the exact location they are shipping from, or the shipping carrier/method. How do I fill this field in if I don't know such information? Shouldn't they send me a full quote with shipping and handling and any other fees along with the price of just the product itself?

2. Total cost: because I don't know the shipping cost, I can't enter in a total cost.

3. Signature: Do they expect me to print it out, sign it by hand, scan my signature in and photoshop it back onto the form, then email the form to them? Or will simply typing in my full name act as a signature in electronic form with all the validity of a real signature?

While I think the Cavision hood will look "cool" on the HC1 Wide-Angle lens, I've also found out the the hood provided with the Sony Telephoto lens fits the Sony WA lens and did not, in my tests, cause any vignetting of the video even when not zoomed.

The plus is, if you have both lenses, you only need one common hood.

You mentioned there was no vignetting when zoomed out, but is there any vignetting with the Sony Telephoto included lens hood when using the Sony Y Wideangle zoomed all the way in?

What about vignetting zoomed in and zoomed out with the Sony Y Wideangle and Cavision LH77 lens hood?

photo of the SONY telephoto hood?
 

marc:

can you post a photo of the SONY telephoto hood?

thank you

I recommend you guys call them directly to order the lens hood. They were very helpful when I called.

Yeah, the adapter is theaded for a standard sized thread. I just got a bolt from the local hardware store and some lock washers to make up the extra length. I put it in a position where it would neither get in the way of changing tapes (with the bottom loading solution adapter) or be in the way of my hands and arms for shooting. The bolt head is on the inside with a lockwasher or two and it extends through the center box of the spiderbrace and gets threaded into the hotshoe adapter. I had to remove the front mounting screw from the Spiderbrace to do this, but I always use it in the rear position (so as to be closer to my eye) anyway.

Since I didn't see an "Edit" option for this (my) post, I will "Quote" it and make a correction, since the above info. is, sadly, not quite correct.

I spoke too soon based on the feedback from looking at the LCD while filming. The LCD does NOT appear to show all of the HD video being captured, as I finally downloaded the scenes I shot with the Tele hood on the WA lens and did get some minor vignetting in the 4 corners when viewing on my HD monitor.

Now the vignetting was minimal, but enough to ruin the non-zoomed shot. It might be possible to solve this by moving the hood further back on the lens or even cutting some material from the front of the hood, either reducing the total length or notching four corners, which would then require some form of registration marking to always get the hood back on in the same position.

Not having a spare and not knowing how much it would cost to replace it, I'm not quite ready to start butchering the Sony hood just yet. I will see if I can set the hood further back on the lens and avoid the vignetting. If it only cost $20 +/- to get a replacement and hack on it, I may do that route. Any more than that and the new Cavision "Y" hood would be the better choice, although it would still be nice if there was a single-solution hood for both Sony lens (WA and Tele).

There's never going to be a single hood solution, not unless we have motorised hoods in the same way as SLRs have motorised flash tubes that are linked to the focal length of the zoom being used.

Remember lens hoods are only designed for the widest angle of your zoom - at all other focal lengths the hood id pretty useless and the Flarebuster is a boon. Have a look at Wayne Orr's set-up here:

http://www.digitalprods.com/flare.htm

tom.

There are other lenses with superior coatings and performance out there. You can look for lenses that were designed for higher end cameras, with better glass, that may not fit the 37mm filter threads of the A1U/HC1 out of the box. All you have to do is attach an adaptor (step up) ring to use a better lens. The disadvantage of using bigger high-end lenses is that the filter threads are much larger which means you have to pay more for the filters.

I've read discussions here speaking positively about the Sony VCL-HG0737Y, but this lens has a few shortcomings too. For one, the lens doesn't have threads on the lens barrel to allow you to attach filters, etc., so if you purchase this lens, you would have to purchase a lens hood which allows you to attach filters to the hood itself. The Cavision LH77 Lens hood is made for the Sony VCL-HG0737Y lens, and allows you to attach 82mm filters to the inside of the lens hood.

I use a Raynox HD-7000PRO High Definition 0.7X Wide Angle Conversion Lens instead of the Sony VCL-HG0737Y 37mm 0.7x Wide Angle Conversion Lens for a number of reasons. First of all, the Raynox lens has superior glass and was designed for high-end cameras. The Sony lens is also a good lens, but has more aberration at the edges when zoomed to it's widest angle, and more red and green color shift than the Raynox lens.

The Raynox HD-7000PRO High Definition 0.7X Wideangle Conversion Lens requires the use of an 37 to 58 mm adaptor ring because it was made for 58mm lenses and designed for use with 1/3 inch ccds such as the VX2000/2100, PD-170/150, etc. It uses 82mm filters which cost more, but if you want to play, you've got to pay.

You can get a lens hood for this lens too. The Cavision LH100WP 3x3 Rubber Lens Hood for Wide Angle Lenses can be used with the Ranox HD-7000Pro Lens. You will also have to buy a step down ring, 100mm to 85mm (Cavision ARP485) to use this hood with the Ranox lens. Cavision also makes a French Flag MBF-3 for this lens hood which helps in outdoor shoots and also acts as a lens cover... Good Stuff!

In my humble opinion, the Raynox HD-7000PRO is a superior lens and costs the same as the Sony but requires a step up ring which costs another 5 bucks, and it supports a French Flag to boot!

I don't have the same filtering problems you do though, since I use a wide angle Cavision 4x5.65" hard matt box system on 15mm rails with both my Z1U and A1U. This is an expensive solution ($800.00 plus with accessories and side flaps) for attaching filters but is the only way to get the most out of both of cameras (especially outdoors in bright sun) since matt boxes provide lots of light control and you can choose filters from the pro world of 4x4" and 4x5.65" filters. However, since both camcorders use the same matt box system, I get more bang for my buck.

I will use the A1U mainly for second unit work and will frequently shoot outdoors where matt boxes and filtering systems are a must (the A1U/HC1 has more problems in low light situations than the Z1U). Also, in available light situations indoors, the A1U/HC1 has more problems with filters since filters cut light levels down a bit and the A1U can use all the help it can get in available light. Indoors, the A1U definitely needs more light. More light, less video noise.

When I use the matt box with my Z1U, I insert the AR85-72 Conical Adapter Ring into the ARR1385 Rubber Adapter Ring in the matt box so it will fit on the Z1U lens. When I use the matt box with the A1U, I remove the AR85-72 Conical Adapter Ring and slip the A1U with the Raynox High Definition 0.7X Wideangle Conversion Lens (85mm lens o.d.) installed, directly into the matt box.

I also use the Cavision dual hand grips and shoulder pads with this system so I don't need the Spiderbrace that so many here rave about. However I do use a Spiderbrace with whichever camera isn't fitted with the matt box system, at the time. That would be the Z1U, in most cases, since I use the Z1U as the first unit camera (mainly indoors, but outdoors too if the second unit isn't using the matt box).

I don't like the Spiderbrace nearly as much as the Cavision shoulder mount system because the Spiderbrace is a little flimsy and is too thick, and hard to attach accessories to, unless you go to the auto store and buy radiator hose clamps (YUK!) to attach accessories, or drill holes in it as I did. The Spiderbrace front handles are also a little on the short side and angled too far out and away from you so it is difficult to attach a Lanc remote to the handle and still grip it. The Spiderbrace also has a substandard attachment system with thumb nuts from Home Depot, to mount the camera. The camera loosens up on the Spiderbrace and can swivel on its mount because it doesn't have a guide pin.

I still use it, though, because it was cheap. The Spiderbrace and HC1/A1U will probably be the number one combination for Hi-Def Porn Shooters, because it is very light, easy to handle, and cheap. But since I don't shoot porn, and mostly use tripods and dollies, I plan to buy another Cavision shoulder mount system to replace my Spiderbrace. The Cavision system attaches to a tripod with the handles attached so you can go from shoulder to tripod in a snap.

As a matter of fact, I also use the Cavision RPSHC - SPACER FOR SONY A1U / HC1 instead of the DeMaagd Accessories HC1-SHIM because the DeMaagd shim shifts the camera too far off center, too the right, in an attempt to accomodate bigger tripods. The Cavision shim is better for me because it works with high-end tripods, and also positions the A1U/HC1 tripod mount closer to the centerline to mount on pro rail systems for matt boxes etc. The DeMaagd HC1-SHIM is great and is priced right (actually the Cavision RPSHC shim is the same price as the HC1-SHIM, $25.00) but the HC1-SHIM can not be used with rails.

I did buy the DeMaagd Accessories HC1-SHIM and it works great on the Spiderbrace and my tripod but I don't need two shims to use with only one A1U. When I got the A1U, I didn't think it would work with the Cavision 4x5.65 matt box system, and like you, was thinking about how to solve my the filtering problems with a wide angle lens.

I discovered that the A1U would work with my matt box, quite by accident. When I got the Raynox lens and discovered that the lens o.d. was 85mm, I knew it would work on the Cavision matt box if I could find a shim that would allow the A1U to work with my matt box rails, and let me remove the tapes without taking the matt box system apart. After digging around a little on the web, I discovered that Cavision also makes a shim that allows the A1U/HC1 to be used with their rail systems (who'd a thought). Since I already had the matt box system for my Z1U, I ordered the Cavision RPSHC shim and tried using my matt box with my A1U. It worked great!

On another note: I'm planning to sell my Sony Z1U so I can buy a Canon XL-H1. My Cavision matt box system works on the Canon XL-H1 too so the matt box turns out to be a great investment and will be around long after all the first generation HDV camcorders have bit the dust.

You can obtain more information about the Raynox lens I use at this link:
http://raynox.co.jp/english/video/hdrhc1/index.htm

For samples of video shot on the HC1, with this and other Raynox lenses, visit this link: http://raynox.co.jp/comparison/video/comp_hdrhc1.htm

You can buy the Raynox lens at B&H Photo. Visit this link: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...ughType=search

For more info on the Cavision LH100WP 3x3" LENS HOOD FOR WIDE ANGLE LENSES, visit this link: http://www.cavision.com/lenshoods/LH100W.htm

You can buy the Cavision LH100WP 3x3" LENS HOOD at B&H Photo. Visit this link:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...ughType=search

For more info on the Cavision MBF-3 3x3" FRENCH FLAP for the 3x3 Lens Hood, visit this link: http://www.cavision.com/matteboxes/more/MBF3.htm

You can buy the Cavision MBF-3 3x3" FRENCH FLAP for the 3x3 Lens Hood at B&H Photo. Visit this link:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...ughType=search

If you want to use the Cavision LH77 Lens hood so you can use filters with the Sony VCLHG0737Y 0.7x Wide Angle Converter Lens, visit this link for more info: http://www.cavision.com/lenshoods/LH77.htm

You can get information on glass filters at the following links:
http://www.cavision.com/filters/cavision.htm
http://www.centuryoptics.com/products/filters/index.htm.

For more info on the Cavision RPSHC SPACER FOR SONY A1U / HC1 camcorders, visit this link:
http://www.cavision.com/rods/A1Uspacer.htm

For more info on the DeMaagd Accessories HC1-SHIM FOR SONY A1U / HC1 camcorders, visit this link: http://dm-accessories.com/HC1-SHIM.php

This is a link to a system much like the one I use with my Z1U and A1U. The difference is that my system does not use a follow focus and does not use 4x4 bellows but uses the 4x5.65 wide angle hard shade instead. Visit this link to see a system configured similarly to mine: http://www.cavision.com/pictures/SonyHDV/RS1580_1.htm

This is the link to the Cavision Shoulder Mount system: http://www.cavision.com/rods/RS1580.htm

I will upload some photos that of my system and provide links to it soon.

Also, the best way to deal with Cavision is to call them. They accept orders over the phone and are very helpful.

--Dave

Hi Laurence!

I have a quick question for you..

I just purchased the Rode NTG-2 mic and was wondering how you got it to fit in Sony's mic mount. I havent recieved the mic yet, but I've heard that it's not exactly a good fit. Thanks!

Just take the rubber wrapping around the including Sony mic off, wrap that rubber wrapping around the Rode mic, and you're good to go. You can also stick the Rode SM5 shockmount directly into the Sony shockmount, and then stick the Rode mic into the Rode shockmount.

Alex - have you got the SM5 yet? If so, can you post a picture of the SM5 mounted on the A1 please? Or ... Laurence??

Problem I have is that I sold my NV1 to buy the Rode NRG-2 :-P

And the SM5 mount, which was on the B&H photo site this morning is now disappeared and I have no idea where to buy one...?

I don't have one myself, but I've seen pictures posted by someone of it once. Basically, the SM5 is the SM3 with a different mounting system. Instead of the shoe mount on the SM3, the SM5 has a cylinder (similar to the shape and size of a microphone) that extends out from the bottom. You just stick that cylinder mount into the Sony shockmount, and attach the mic the same way you would on the SM3 (into the rubber bands).

You can find a picture of SM5 with Rode NTG1 in here: http://www.aavekammari.com/a1.html

I got my SM-5 here:

http://www.fullcompass.com/Products/...070/index.html

Cool picture. The only problem is that if you use the light with the mic in that position it will cast a shadow across the frame. Just rotate the SM-5 so that it stands out horizontally instead of vertically when you use the light and this is no problem.

Actually for tripod mount I use a set of shop lights. I just use the camera light (with Stofen diffusor) for handheld stuff.

One thing that this picture shows is how pro you can get for very little money. A setup like this is right around three grand and in addition to looking pro, it produces absolutely incredible footage.

Actually I've been using SM5 horizontally lately. Rode is so light that horizontal position doesn't make handheld shots uncomfortable. I also have that Stofen diffusor for light but I wanted picture look cooler, so I left it out :D

Picture of custom a1u
 

Do you think you can repost a link to the pictures of the custom a1u on page 1. The link brings up a page that says the picture is no longer available.
Thanks

Good to see the shots of your kit Poppe. I have that Manfrotto 128 head on my second tripod, and much admire the fluidity of all its movements. The 503 head is better, but so it should be considering the price.

Looks like you have a Cavision hood fronting the wide-angle converter - is that a Cavision one too? I have the same light (the 20-DW2 that takes the bigger NP-F battery) and velcro on a Lumquest diffuser. With both filaments lit and the diffuser in place, it's bye-bye to harsh shadows and squinty eyes.

tom.

Manfrotto 128 is good when you have to carry things all around, it's SO light. But it's too much front balanced with heavy wide lense.
Yep, my hood is Cavision LH77 (with Hoya HMC Pro1 UV).

Which Hoya filter is the Pro 1? Is it this one:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont....x=0&image.y=0

I am looking for an UV filter to use with the LH77 and I am not sure which quality I am looking at to match the image quality without the filter (or at least come very close to that image quality).