sorry bout the dead link
 

it works now

Sony puts out the LC-PD100TH, for the PDX10, and the LCH TRV950, for the 950, having the same body that the PD has. I know that places like Safer Seas customizes Pelican cases, though they don't carry the PDX10 itself.

Nice stark black background. There is one area with a hot highlight in the lower left of the guitar but, in one way of looking, that highlight adds to the starkness of the photo.....ok in this one.

Turn down sharpness completely and, with as much lighting as you had, the TRV950 will be essentially noise free almost to its resolution limit. Even one click of sharpening above default is too much if noise is an issue.

Sharpen in Photoshop (unsharp mask for quick outcomes) (or better, MATLAB, using their image processing toolkit with FFT) once the still is captured at zero sharpening on the TRV.

On another website a poster named ccbatson provided me these parameters in pshop unsharp mask.

Amount: 175
Radius: 0.8
Threshold: 1

I think 175 may be too aggressive if you are really sensitive to noise but will work well if you plan to print the image on a printer.

Auto-gain up is the analog gain on the CCD array sensitivity upstream of the A/D conversion. Turning it off ensures the lowest noise outcome.

Great pics and especially to be taken with a digital camcorder.

Here is one I took with my former PDX10.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...5/pdx10(1).jpg

Thanks for your input Mike…I really don’t want to set up that shot again so I will give the Carvin guitar one more shot in Photoshop…it’s the only editor I can afford. I didn’t even think about the unsharp mask and I believe I may look real hard at the blue channel perhaps soften it up. The noise didn’t concern me as much in the darker Gibson guitar but the Carvin needs some attention…especially after I looked at Tommy’s photo…make me feel better Tom and tell me that was just a lucky shot!!!

The difference between a carpenter with a camera, and a photographer with one, might be likened to the difference between, tossing a bullet…AND SHOOTING ONE!

Btw Tom, I looked at your web site(nicely done) and I’ll bet you love that Panasonic…had there been one available in the states last year I would have opted for the mx5000 version.

Some thoughts of a European buyer.
 

Many Europeans who want to order a camcorder from the U.S. or Asia sooner or later face the same problems.
a) Guarantee.
Most shops selling these cameras have a U.S. or 90 days guarantee. You can buy an additional mark guarantee which they claim to be an international guarantee, but what happens when something goes wrong? Do we have to send the camera back to the U.S. or can we leave it to an authorized camera in the country where we are?
There are some shops for example in Hong Kong which exchange domestic warranty card for an international one That’s great!!


b) Payment.
In many European countries, like in Sweden where I happen to be, banc transfer is very inconvenient since the banc administrational fees are extremely high, and you meet a lot of obstacles until your money has reached the receiver. I speak of own experience. So payment by banc card (visa, AmEx etc) is least to say to prefer.

c) Grey market camcorders.
Naturally you will tell me to buy from our sponsors and of cause if the above wasn’t an issue I would. It would be good if there were a list of ”blacklisted” sellers (grey market sellers)
Everyone knows that Sony PDX 10 come with a 2 year silver support warranty (at least in Europe).
(Take a look att: www.creativevideo.co.uk/pdf/sony_silver-support.pdf )
So I’ve asked a company selling the Sony PDX 10 in England if they offer this support.
The answer they gave me was:
We are selling without silver support (not of great help if you read the small print!).
Are they grey market sellers?

One problem that I have: I want to order a camera from the U.S. I’ve got a friend over there who will visit me soon. Now, I would like to order the camcorder, make the payment from my visa card (so that I also will become the registered buyer) and have it delivered to my friend. But I’ve been told that from the B&H that it’s not possible.


Anyway, any reaction on this theme? I hope that our sponsors will help their potential European buyers and simplify the selling/buying.

Regards Lambis

You won't get any real coverage at 5 metres, but the only on-camera lights that won't have subjects squinting -or running from you- in lower light situations will be the lowest wattage ones, like the tiny 3 watt light Sony makes for their Handycams. Model VL3 or somethingthat sounds like that. It runs off the cameras power through the Sony hotshoe, so i Believe your pdx10 will run it.

Optimistically figure on lighting out to 3m, or less if you diffuse it for a wider spread, which will help you avoid the center hotspot.

Using an on-camera soft box will let you use a lot more wattage without blinding people.

PDX10 infos request
 

Hi all, I'm a DSR390 user and I'm thinking to buy PDX10 like second little camera. My questions: with 390 I use an Anton Bauer light directly connected to the camera, so the light dont need a battery. Do you know if it's possible with the PDX10 too?
And I'd like to know if PDX10 can use the portable hd DU1.
Thanks in advance, Maurizio.

The "hot shoe" on the PDX-10 is used for the XLR adaptor box. The box itself has a shoe mount, but it doesn't provide power. Aside from that, with the little QM-91 as the largest available battery, you probably wouldn't want to power a light from the camera. But read back through this forum for a bit, there was some earlier discussion of camera-mounted lights.

Keep in mind that the PDX-10 is actually a very small camera (it will seem tiny if you're used to a DSR-390). It's quite a bit smaller and lighter than a PD-150 as well.

What do you think you might use the PDX for?

Little productions or second camera in normal work and holydays. I'd like to know if some particular things I use with 390 are possible to use with PDX10 in the same way (light on camera and portable hd DU1). I have an old 1998 XL1 and before to change I want to be sure.
Maurizio.

I think if you approach the PDX10 as a point-and-shoot amateur then the camera gives strikingly good results. But I fear for a man coming from a DSR, and I fear because you may be wanting to see what aperture you're shooting at and may not like the CCD smear and be upset by the three internal NDs that you can't switch off - even in manual.

Read up (here) about this cam. If you're happy for Sony to make the shooting decisions for you then it's indeed a great performing camera, and in 16:9 it's wonderful. Except that you have to be *so* careful about that smear.

tom.

Thanks, Lambis. It's always complicated to buy from outside of your country---I do it all the time!

matching PDX footage with VX2000 footage
 

I currently do weddings with two VX2000s and I'm thinking of getting a PDX-10 as a third camera ... I realize that there is a lux rating difference, but assuming one is shooting in good light, how does footage from the PDX-10 match up with the VX2000 (or PD-150)? Will it require a lot of work in post?

Thanks!

Don't believe that you should have any problems assuming that the PSX is not used in complete darkness (and it is used in 4:3 format)

P

I haven't done a side by side comparison, but, at a glance, the PDX and pd170 look very similar.

Thanks guys!

PDX10 Questions! Help!
 

I am about to purchase a DV camera for some work on documentaries and shorts. For my budget, the PDX10 looks like a great little camera, but I need help in deciding between PDX10, PD100A or PD150. Here are my concerns:

1. Some people say it performs bad in low-light. 7 lux, right? Is it acceptable or simply poor? Would it be okay to use it occasionaly at, let's say indoor rock concerts and for some night exterior shots without extra lighting? What are your experiences?

2. How does it perform with Final Cut Pro 4? Especially the 16:9 footage; does it integrate well?

3. How does it compare to PD100A? The PD100A is supposed to have better low-light performance. True or not? Also, I've heard the PD100A only takes DVCAM tapes and it doesn't have the 16:9 native mode like PDX10. Anyway, could used PD100A be a better/cheaper alternative?

4. Used PD150 is still a few hundred more than PDX10. Is it worth spending that extra money for what most people claim is really good low-light performance? Does PD150 have 16:9 native mode as PDX10?

I would appreciate any input on this, because I will have to decide soon.
Thanks a lot!

Hi Alan! A few bits of opinion for you. I don't feel confident about answering them all:

2. It works just fine with FCP--no problems. The 16X9 looks tremendous.

4. b. PD150's 16X9 is not native. It's got less resolution than the PDX10 in that mode.

A few others around here will help with the rest. Boyd has done a lot with theatrical shooting, so maybe he has an answer on the rock concert thing.

Overall, this is a wonderful camera. For a documentary, its small and unobtrusive, great quality, and great sound capability. I haven't minded the low-light deal, but then I hardly ever shoot in the dark...

Alan, you should be OK for rock concerts unless they are REALLY dark. Night exteriors might be more problematic, depending on the levels. You can generally get an image but in very dark places there will be a lot of noise in the picture.

I think the PD-100A has the same DVCAM abilities as the PDX-10, but have never used one. The PDX-10's 16:9 mode is unusually good and will not be matched by either the PD-100 or PD-150. They should produce images in the 16:9 anamorphic format, but the resolution will be lower.

Boyd & Chris,

Thanks a lot for your input. I will try to get my hands on one PDX10 and test it in previously mentioned situations before I can really decide. It seems that it comes down to this:

CONS:
vertical smear problem
not ideal low light performance
can't control gain manually

PROS
16:9 native
XLR audio
size
price!


Starting with PDX10 and adding a PD150/170 later is probably a good way to go - especially since I need something soon, but can't spend a fortune on it.

Oh, and by the way, if someone has a link to some video footage made with PDX10, please post it...

Thanks.

Re: PDX10 Questions! Help!
 

<<<-- Originally posted by Alan Ford :
"1. Some people say it performs bad in low-light. 7 lux, right? Is it acceptable or simply poor?"

Why don't you go to camcorderinfo.com and see their camcorder tests. Lots of camcorders tested at 15 lux. You can compare... You'll also need to test the camcorder yourself. And remember to set the gain to max 12dB or max 6dB before testing, because at max gain the black noise on the screen is disturbing IMHO.

"Would it be okay to use it occasionaly at, let's say indoor rock concerts and for some night exterior shots without extra lighting? What are your experiences?"

Concerning night exteriors: Will there be movement in the video? You'll learn to use the words "still" and "slow"... "Don't move, I'm recoring some video" ;)

The PDX-10 is a daylight camera. I have tried to use it in the middle of the night and I can tell you that

1) some star/moonshine reflecting from snow is not enough: you'll record true black. You need the sun, a fire or electric lighting of some sort.

2) if there is a small 1-2 feet wide campfire then the people next to the fire (3-6 feet away) will be visible when using slow shutter speeds. Nice red/orange glow... And I mean SLOW shutter speeds. 1/3 seconds - 1/6 seconds. You'll get some nice audio and an interesting slideshow - unless, of course, the people are moving a lot.

3) in the city things get simpler. A clear blue night sky, snow, some lamps on the yard, street lighting etc. will create very very beautiful images. But you'll probably need 1/25 sec shutter speed (or 1/12 sec - 1/6 sec for more brightness). It's a very nice effect, though. A night time interview might be possible if the interviewed person stays relatively still. Any auxiliary light and manual exposure (of course) would be useful. But if you want a bright picture at full 1/50 sec or 1/60 sec then you'd better be under a pretty bright lamp or have proper lighting equipment.

I'm happy with my PDX-10, in daylight. But when the moon rises... Remember that it's a daylight camera. You won't be able to do night time interviews or shorts without some extra lighting or slow shutter speeds. Things change, when the subject is on a stage with proper spot lights and all...

You could add that "night" in post, right?

Other things to consider: the PDX-10 does not have very a wide angle of view. If you are going to shoot inside then you'll probably need a good zoom-through wide angle adapter. Most DV cameras share this problem.

A big plus are the manual focus buttons: Auto/Manual/Infinity + PushAuto button. I just love the "push auto" focus button... And the size of the camera is great! You can do shooting relatively unnoticed...

Some pdx10 screen grab
 

If you are interested in a pd10, I have some screen grab here, take a look.

http://www.dvxuser.com/cgi-bin/DVX2/...num=1084424677

Lots of good pointers here. One thing though - the PD100 has been discontinued for some time now (c. 18 months). It's a good 2 stops more sensitive than the replacement PDX10, but then it has bigger chips with fewer pixels. It's a trade...

You seem to have done your investigating well Alan, and your pro and con list is pretty good. All the cons are deleted at a stroke if you go straight to the 150/170, but of course the size/price barrier is a problem.

Bottom line has got to be this. If you want the best 16:9 for the dollar, the PDX10 is you cam, period. If this is just a passing fancy then the 150/170 is a very much better camera in a whole host of ways, almost too many to mention here. And lookie here - the VX2100 is just a few dollars more than the PDX...

tom.

the pd100A is an excellent camera in low light but like someone mentionned it it's discontinued.

PDX10P Thankyou
 

Hello guys,
After scanning these forums for the last week, I decided to purchase a Sony PDX10P. I must admit I appreciate the fact that the folks here dont seem too biased about their camera brand or model, willing to not only voice the pro's, but also the cons.

I'd just like to thank those who have posted, especially in this forum. Im looking forward to the relationship with my new camera, although i must admit, ive had it three days and have partaken in but five minutes of footage. Nope ive never been a sucker for manuals before, but i guess spending 5k (Aus) demands it :)

Thanks again,
Tim.

Congratulations Tim, glad you found the forum helpful. The PDX-10 manual is not really all that great (like other Sony manuals I've seen), but it does recite all the features and can serve as a starting point. Let us know how the camera works out for you, we'll be here if you have questions along the way!

PDX-10 Or the TRV 950
 

hey Guys what camera u think would be best for surf footage and underwater photography?????

Probably not much in it for 4:3 but if you want 16:9 then PDX is the way to go.

They both will fit a standard u/w housing (the PDX shoe for mic can be removed) so they have the same footprint.

Having one PDX already, I thought about the 950 as a 2nd camera, but decided on getting a 2nd PDX10.

Regards p

I don't know what the pricing is like in your part of the world, but at B&H the price difference between the PDX-10 and TRV-950 is about $300. The microphone, XLR box, DVCAM recording, BW viewfinder, additional menu options, black finish and especially the higher quality 16:9 are well worth the price difference.

Right. If that's the price difference for you as well, Jarrad, definitely go with the PDX10.

I agree. The unique selling point of the PDX10 is the excellent 16:9 that even gives you a half-decent wide-angle (equivalent to 39.5mm is still photo terms). The 950 doesn't have a USP in my book. It's pretty, has a lovely side screen but does come with it's fais share of video and audio compromises.

tom.

DV RIG pro Shoulder Mount- Looks good?
 

It is the DV Rig Pro...Doesn't mention working with the PDX but says all pro-sumer cams.

http://www.dvtec.tv/_wsn/page2.html

And it looks good at least on the website.
B&H has it for $600.00 and man I am tempted. Love my PDX10 but it is killing my shoulder and ruining my ping pong game. Anyone heard anything on this rig?
I do a lot of weddings and thus receptions!!!

thanks,
Al



I know there is another thread but wasn't sure anyone visited that one anymore.

PDX10 / PD100A low-light comparison
 

I've had a PD100A for about 4 years, and am now needing to move on to a newer camera. I really like the 100A, with the exception of a noisy motor, it's been an excellent camera for me. The PDX10 seems a logical replacement-- though i've read alot about its not-so-great handling of low-light situations. I do quite a bit of verite-style documentary work, so this is a concern-- however, if its performance is comparable to that of the 100A, then I don't see it being a problem for me.

Does anyone have experience with (or knowledge of) these two models? Is the PDX10 worse in low-light situations than the 100A? Are there other factors that I should consider in moving from the 100A to the PDX10? Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

This is kicked around every so often here, but more recently with regard to the TRV-900 vs TRV-950. I don't think many people here have personal hands on experience with both cameras, but there is anecdotal info.

I think you'll find the PDX-10 needs more light, based on what I've read. But how much?... not sure. I have a PDX-10 and a VX-2000 and can offer some actual data there. I recently shot some tests, and observed that the PDX-10 was roughly two and a half f-stops slower than the VX-2000. Perhaps this data point will help?

I really like my PDX-10, and almost never use the VX-2000 anymore, but in a dark documentary setting you might have issues (I don't do that type of shooting myself). Now I think you will be able to film in most of those places with the PDX-10 - I've shot by campfire light for example. But the noise level will probably be higher than the PD-100a. The 14-bit DSP offsets this a bit, and at +6dB gain I can't really detect any added noise.

IMO, the real strength of the PDX-10 is the high resolution 16:9 which is just about the same quality as its 4:3. If you don't do much 16:9 work then there probably isn't a lot of reason to get a PDX-10. However it does give you DVCAM, hi-res BW viewfinder, nice big bright LCD panel, XLR's and the same mike as the PD-170. And you could buy two of them for about the same price as one PD-170.

Does this help any?

New Sony Wide Angle??
 

I've seen this Sony 37mm 0.45X Wide Angle.
http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/eCS/Store/en/-/USD/SY_DisplayProductInformation-Start?ProductSKU=VCLSW04&DCMP=BeFree_DF&HQS=VCLSW04
Not sure how new it is, but it is .45 and zoom through as far as I am aware.
Would be great for what I need.
Anyone used or tested this lens with the PDX or 950?
Could anyone test it, maybe some screen shots with it.
Also for people with the expensive sony 2x converter, how much quality is lost? How much as a percentage would you say? Is the image softened?
The 2x converter I have now made by raynox is not usable it's so soft.
Many camcorders that have 37mm threads are cheaper consumer cams, so the lenses are made for those cameras. Do you think buying a lens with a larger thread would be the better option? Do you still get the same field of view?

Haven't seen that .45x before. I have one of the "titanium" .45x wide lenses however and am happy with the wide field of view it gives. There is noticeable barrell distortion at full wide, but I sort of like the effect.

I also have the Sony VCL-HG2037X which I believe is the "expensive sony 2x converter" you're talking about. I think it's excellent personally, very sharp. I don't know how I would rate it as a "percentage" though? Note that there are no filter threads on the front however. You can't zoom very far through it without severe vignetting, but that isn't an issue for me, and I think it's pretty much what one would expect with a 2x lens. I suppose a lens designed for a larger camcorder might let you zoom out farther, but that would be kind of a monster in relation to the PDX-10...

Are any conversion lenses for the PDX10 NOT zoom through? Afterall, all the zooming happens in the camera, not like a digital still camera sticks's its lens out.

Ronald, the issue is not that the camera lens will bump into the converter, but that focus will not hold when zooming through the entire range. Additionally, depending on the lens, you may get vignetting of the image such that the corners fade or get chopped off.

So yes, you can press the zoom button while the converter lens is installed, but depending on the particular lens, the resulting images may not be optimal.