I'm very happy with the F-Stops on the micro35. Actually, I believe the osciallting idea is so you can move the glass and not get any specific visible patterns. It really doesn't have anything to do with the F-Stops.

james

What is the highest f-stop you can go to before seeing the glass?

Have you fitted an adapter to a Canon XL-1s yet? I am very interested in the whole package as long as it's below $1000 finished, ready to shoot.

James is that Sigma a AF SLR without Iris on the outside(manual iris)?? is that a Canon mount?

Hello James,
been following your development and bought into your guide a few weeks back. Looking forward to having a leg up on the engineering. Got a few Nikkor choices coming.

PS: Thank you for the upgrade to a GG and sticker.

jh

Dave,
I think you're talking about the shutter speed. I went to 1/250 comfortably today testing the last round of GGs.

Turns out, the 60 will probably be the way to go. The 40, 30 and 20 looked great, but I slowly started losing DOF as I went down. The 40 actually looked a little too cloudy. 60 Looks awesome.

Obin, my sigma is an AF SLR without a manual iris. After playing with the lomo today, I've learned having iris control is pretty sweet. The resolution looked much better controlling the iris than just flipping an ND on. Adding the ND caused a little resolution loss. So I'll probably check out some Nikon lenses since my canon doesn't have the manual iris.

No problem on the sticker. It's actually one of those 'Domed' stickers. They look pretty sweet on the adapter.

Here's a couple of caps using my DIY 'dvrack'ish' software. It sure makes it easier to focus when using the adapter.

www.micro35.com/pics/test.jpg
www.micro35.com/pics/test2.jpg

They were cap'd using the LOMO lens. I'm told it's his 'bad' lens. He sent to me to use for machining the LOMO mount.

James

How was your test with the Sony HDV Camera?

I haven't got to test it yet....

<<<-- Originally posted by James Hurd : I think you're talking about the shutter speed. >>>

I was actually talking about F-stop. For example on Charles Papert's review of the 400 series mini35, he mentions that the oscillating glass allows for deeper t-stops. One of the main problems with the 300 series is that you can't shoot any higher than 3.5 basically. On the other hand I have shot all the way to 1/4000 shutter with the 300 series and have had no serious grain issues.

Why did you letterbox the vid-caps, James?

I am new to the minidv world but I have read this entire post and am overwhelmed and intrigued. I would like to purchase a pre-assembled unit but I have a few questions.

1. You were talking about the image being flipped, have you fixed this? Is there a way to fix it on my XL2?

2. I have no idea when it comes to lenses, what kind of lenses would you reccomend I purchase for this set-up? I shoot outside mostly (motocross videos)

3. Have you gotten a set-up to work with the XL2 yet?

4. Is audio recording still feasible with this set-up?

5. Does the $500 price tag include everything? (mounts, rails, gg. lenses, etc.)

Mandy,
My camera was in letter box mode when I'd ran outside and filmed the horses. The resolution charts aren't letter boxed.

Brad,
1. I haven't gotten a chance to work with the XL2.
2. 35mm SLR (Nikon or Canon)
3. See #1 (I'm wanting to though!)
4. THe adapter doesn't affect the audio.
5. Everything but the 35mm lens.

Hope this helps!!

James

<<<-- Originally posted by James Hurd : Mandy,

1. I haven't gotten a chance to work with the XL2.


James -->>>

<<<-- Originally posted by James Hurd : Mandy,

1. I haven't gotten a chance to work with the XL2.


James -->>>

Do you know when you will get a chance to work with an XL2? I noticed a few pages back that someone in your area offered to let you use his. Once you get something worked out for the XL2 I will buy one (maybe 2)

Sounds great Brad. I'll keep you posted!