Picture Profiles to Memory Stick
 

Spot, please clarify; Are you saving individual picture profiles to the memory stick? Or are you saving six at a time as a specification of a camera profile?

I can't find in the menu or manual an option to save just a picture profile to memory stick.

Many thanks.

I change them at will, just reset back to default, they are reset.I have spent hours and hours on taping minor changes to each, actually the factor defaults are pretty good as far as I can see. Heres one a friend gave me, he got it from someone who shoots for Discovery or something like that, its fairly saturated
color level 5
color phase 4
sharp 13
skintone type 2
skin lvl 4
wb 0
knee auto
blk stretch
cine tone type 1
cinetone color on

Matching Z1 and V1 picture profiles.
 

Hi, I've to do a shoot next week, with a Z1 and a V1 in PAL. MyZ1 prefered settings are:
Color Level+2
Color Phase 0
Shaprness 12
Skintone DTL Off
Skintone LVL Middle
AE Shift -2
AGC Limit 6dbs.
AT Iris LMT. f11
WB Shift +4
ATW Sens Middle
Black off
Cinemat. off
Cineframe off.

Know it's a long shot, but can anyone suggest, a Preset for the V1 which will give me less hassle in post production? Manual white balancing of course.Thought it was worth asking anyway!
Cheers, Mike.

v1u picture profiles do you use them?
 

i like the look of the cinema picture profile on my v1u and usually shoot with that. is that something is should not use, and worry about that in post?

v1u picture profiles
 

i like the look of the cinema profile. but should i not use it, and worry about the looks in post? im going to be shooting a music video, and just wanted opinions on to use it or not.

thanks

I use the Cinegamma 1 plus Cinecolor settings for bright daylight outdoor scenes, particullarly any shots of ocean/coastline, etc. It's a very distinctive, saturated look that I like.
I will say that if I intercut shots from a camera that doesnt have those settings, it can be tricky to get them to match in post.
In lighting that is less than splendid bright outdoor light these settings seem to crush the blacks a bit, so I don't use them universally.
It might be worthwhile to do some test shots before committing yourself.

I use all 6 and keep changing 5 and 6 to suit me, each one has a use as far as I am concerned, The Sony defaults are real good, but I like a saturated effect to reduce doing it in V8. I spend many hours trying different settings and have tried to narrow it down to what I use now.

V1U Presets
 

Perhaps a silly question, but does anyone wish to share any presets with the community?

We are getting ready to shoot a segment which involves R/C Helicopters, and its literally like chasing a dragonfly in the air with fast tele/wide and rapid focus dynamics.

Not real sure how to approach this one, although I plan on practicing a bunch before the event.

If anyone has a action-sports preset they wanna share (hint-hint), let me know.

Thanks guys.

I will share mine, I got them from someone, this is the one I like the best, saturated like discovery, a friend got it from someone who said they shot for discovery,
color +3
color phase 0
sharp 12
skintone type 1
skintone lvl 3
wb 0
knee auto
blk compress
cinematone type 2
cinematone color on

try it you can always change it I use in profile 6

Steve Mullen has a bunch laid out in his book. Those are the ones I've chosen to program in and I've been happy with them.

I have the Douglas Spotted DVD and the Masterworks DVD on the way from B&H. I figure its a great starting point with both, even though it appears the Masterworks covers more FX7.

Sharpness and Noise
 

Ok, here's my take on the relation between the sharpness setting and the noise in the image.

After this test I started using a maximum sharpness value of 4.

Notice on the mountain example how unnaturally sharpened the trees look when sharpness is set to 7 (camera default).

PS: I still have some doubts about color settings, like how should I set the PP so I have the largest headroom when Color Correcting?

I agree totally with your decision to use sharpness 4 and no more.

This is the figure I settled on some time ago for my V1E.

I would rather have a natural image, if you examine the top of the foliage on the hill on your sharpness 12 image there is a thin BLACK line edging everything, that is not natural.

You would not see that with your eyes when you are there.

Likewise if you examine the edge of the pale yellow or cream building at the left there is an unnatural WHITE line edging it and the blue sky.

I believe this is all that digital sharpening of images is, no more than applying black and white lines to the edge of everything, it's a trick to fool the eye into believing the images are sharper than they really are.

Love my V1E on sharpness 4! not to mention the extra resolution in 25P mode.

This BBC White Paper Addendum is worth a look:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/rd/pubs/whp/whp034-add23.shtml

Other similar cameras are covered in a long list of other addenda to the White Paper 034:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/rd/pubs/whp/whp034.shtml

Alan, thanks for posting those links. I followed the trail to this document:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/rd/pubs/whp/whp...ony-HVR-V1.pdf

A *great* engineer's summary of the camcorder, especially valuable for operators are the tables of menu settings.

If it were me, I'd add one more "BBC" setting - Focus Macro = Off. This is because the Macro setting defeats the backfocus, meaning you can't zoom in, focus, and zoom out with good results (in manual focus mode).

BBC's review of colorimetry - I wish we had a similar review for the NTSC version of the camera.

A great orientation for anyone looking to maximize the performance of their V1 through Picture Profiles.