Has anyone ever softened a Home Depot work light like this?

Anthony Vincent · May 4th, 2007, 02:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Luce

I have some feedback. Part of the genius of this solution is its affordability and that if the crew complained about craft services, just remove the soft box, fill with 2 cans of tuna (drained), cover with breadcrumbs and 1/3 cup diced celery, bake for 40 minutes and Presto! Tuna Casserole!

OMG that is too funny! LOL

Roque Rodriguez · September 17th, 2007, 12:04 PM

Anyone know where I can see that video? The link seems to be broken now. Thanks!

Ted Spencer · September 21st, 2007, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roque Rodriguez

Anyone know where I can see that video? The link seems to be broken now. Thanks!

Ditto on that

Shiv Kumar · September 22nd, 2007, 12:21 AM

Stephen,

Not to burst your bubble...

On the one hand you need diffused light, but on the other hand you also need a broad source. Broader the light source softer it is.

So if you're trying to really get a "SoftBox" effect then what you should really do is mount a diffusion layer a bit away from the lights. Bedsheet, Rip-Stop Nylon etc.

There are two advantages to this:
1. The diffusion material is away from the heat source thus reducing the risk of fire.
2. The light is a broad source. That is from the subject's (or cameras) point of view, the light is emitting from a broad source.

Now diffusing those light might be a good idea in and of itself, but a softlight it will not make.

I've used these lights and done the glass bit and then moved to the Rip-Stop nylon and that was a whole lot better.

The other issue with those lights is the heat and of course the power consumption. Mine are 1200W at full bright. Each light has a 300W halogen and there are two.

You can get the same light output with practically no heat using CFLs. Mount them in a home made enclosure and put some rip-stop nylon in front of them and you've got a really great soft box.

Or you can do what I eventually did (after experimenting with both suggestions above).

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=103871

Shiv.

Cole McDonald · August 19th, 2008, 11:15 AM

We did some shower curtain tests:

Y.A.F.I.:Underground Media

Stuart Graham · May 5th, 2009, 08:36 AM

I used a 500W halogen site/work light for a film in the past. The light had baking paper over the front to soften the light and after using it on and off for about an hour our living room started to fill up with noxious smoke. The components inside the light had seriously overheated and started to burn and melt. If the unit hadn't been self contained with the glass plate on the front to prevent oxygen getting in quickly I'm fairly certain it would have set on fire rather than just smouldered. As it was it smouldered for a good five minutes after turning it off at the socket.

I recommend not wrapping site/work lights in anything.

- don't make the same foolish mistake I did!

If you do get any smoke coming out of a site light that's overheated don't ever use it again as it's probably damaged inside - chuck it out - it's not worth the risk. In fact that goes for any light unit, unless you get it checked by an electrician.

Bill Pryor · May 5th, 2009, 12:53 PM

That's what diffusion gel is for. It doesn't burn. But if you get it too close to the bulb it can burn. With some metal coat hangers and a pair of pliers you could make a gel holder for a work light. Or even easier, just hang a piece of gel from a C-stand.
Recently I saw one of those worklights with fluorescent bulbs. They're pretty soft.

Stuart Graham · May 6th, 2009, 04:08 AM

It wasn't the baking paper that burnt Bill, the light itself overheated and burnt inside. It's important you don't prevent the light from losing heat by covering it up. The C stand is a good idea bill.

Tom Koveleskie · May 17th, 2009, 10:44 AM

I don't know if this was suggested because I didn't read the whole thread. I started using diffused tungsten lights back in 1995 when DV format came out. This was before I had bought some Photoflex light domes. I used white umbrellas in front of my 1000w lights. The lights shot through the extended umbrellas attached to the light stand and produced very soft light. Now worries about fires as the umbrellas are far enough away from the lights. Used this set up for years. looks a whole lot more pro than using bed sheets and shower curtains. The umbrellas were like $25 each.

August 19th, 2008, 11:15 AM	#80
Cole McDonald Trustee Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Sauk Rapids, MN, USA Posts: 1,675	We did some shower curtain tests: Y.A.F.I.:Underground Media __________________ Web Youtube Facebook

May 5th, 2009, 08:36 AM	#81
Stuart Graham Major Player Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Selby UK Posts: 274	I used a 500W halogen site/work light for a film in the past. The light had baking paper over the front to soften the light and after using it on and off for about an hour our living room started to fill up with noxious smoke. The components inside the light had seriously overheated and started to burn and melt. If the unit hadn't been self contained with the glass plate on the front to prevent oxygen getting in quickly I'm fairly certain it would have set on fire rather than just smouldered. As it was it smouldered for a good five minutes after turning it off at the socket. I recommend not wrapping site/work lights in anything. - don't make the same foolish mistake I did! If you do get any smoke coming out of a site light that's overheated don't ever use it again as it's probably damaged inside - chuck it out - it's not worth the risk. In fact that goes for any light unit, unless you get it checked by an electrician. __________________ Stuart Graham www.magentapictures.com

May 6th, 2009, 04:08 AM	#83
Stuart Graham Major Player Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Selby UK Posts: 274	It wasn't the baking paper that burnt Bill, the light itself overheated and burnt inside. It's important you don't prevent the light from losing heat by covering it up. The C stand is a good idea bill. __________________ Stuart Graham www.magentapictures.com

September 17th, 2007, 12:04 PM	#77
Roque Rodriguez New Boot Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 11	Anyone know where I can see that video? The link seems to be broken now. Thanks!

September 22nd, 2007, 12:21 AM	#79
Shiv Kumar Major Player Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Gainesville, VA, USA Posts: 327	Stephen, Not to burst your bubble... On the one hand you need diffused light, but on the other hand you also need a broad source. Broader the light source softer it is. So if you're trying to really get a "SoftBox" effect then what you should really do is mount a diffusion layer a bit away from the lights. Bedsheet, Rip-Stop Nylon etc. There are two advantages to this: 1. The diffusion material is away from the heat source thus reducing the risk of fire. 2. The light is a broad source. That is from the subject's (or cameras) point of view, the light is emitting from a broad source. Now diffusing those light might be a good idea in and of itself, but a softlight it will not make. I've used these lights and done the glass bit and then moved to the Rip-Stop nylon and that was a whole lot better. The other issue with those lights is the heat and of course the power consumption. Mine are 1200W at full bright. Each light has a 300W halogen and there are two. You can get the same light output with practically no heat using CFLs. Mount them in a home made enclosure and put some rip-stop nylon in front of them and you've got a really great soft box. Or you can do what I eventually did (after experimenting with both suggestions above). http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=103871 Shiv.

May 5th, 2009, 12:53 PM	#82
Bill Pryor Contributor Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 4,449	That's what diffusion gel is for. It doesn't burn. But if you get it too close to the bulb it can burn. With some metal coat hangers and a pair of pliers you could make a gel holder for a work light. Or even easier, just hang a piece of gel from a C-stand. Recently I saw one of those worklights with fluorescent bulbs. They're pretty soft.

May 17th, 2009, 10:44 AM	#84
Tom Koveleskie Regular Crew Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: North Wales, Pennsylvania Posts: 76	I don't know if this was suggested because I didn't read the whole thread. I started using diffused tungsten lights back in 1995 when DV format came out. This was before I had bought some Photoflex light domes. I used white umbrellas in front of my 1000w lights. The lights shot through the extended umbrellas attached to the light stand and produced very soft light. Now worries about fires as the umbrellas are far enough away from the lights. Used this set up for years. looks a whole lot more pro than using bed sheets and shower curtains. The umbrellas were like $25 each.