James,

Whoever you used for printing, make sure you don't go back to them! *smile*

I have printed a MILLION flyers, books, cards, brochures & newsletters over my lifetime, my highest being 30,000 in quantity.....and none of them took this long.

I want to build one of these for my Z1U (or try and figure a way to make it work). I was excited at first, but now i'm like *shrugs*

- Shannon W. Rawls

Re: www.micro35.com is alife
 

<<<-- Originally posted by Jochen Stolle : Joshua
The LOMO lenses is it a lens from the Lenigrad opto mechanical product company? Or where does it come from?

thanks

Jay -->>>

Yes. They're made for Russian 35mm and 16mm cameras like the Konvas and the Kinor. While they're not as good as the slick stuff being produced to day, they're pretty good quality for the money.

However, it sounds like if I want to use one on my DV camera, I have to dismantle my Konvas and send James the mount, and I don't really want to do that. I could convert the Konvas to a PL mount, I suppose, but I don't really want to do that either.

Joshua

where did you get it?

Joshua,
Now that I've made the LOMO mount, I won't need a sample.

The delay has partially been our fault, but I must say, the printers are certainly taking their time.

That's what I get for trying to save money....

Questions for Joshua
 

Re: Lomos

I don't want to drag this thread off-topic. How can I email you off-list?

Yeah, I've got to talk about Chris about that - I can't find anything on the profile page to fix it. I'll e-mail you off list.

So am I right in assuming that you are not using regular 35mm SLR lenses anymore James? Sorry, I was getting a bit confused with all the matte boxes and fast glass and lomo talk!

Mandy,
I'm still using 35mm SLR lenses. The LOMO setup was specified by the first "Pre-Assembled" unit order.

James I am still waiting for your call...do you have my number?

James i just got my first 50 mm 1/8 Nikon and found a family treasure (80-200 2´8 all the way!)...

But i have a question. I will probably buy one of the kits or pre-assembled cos it´s difficult to translate the terms (nobody in spain knows anything about ground glasses for example) And i will ask it for a XM1 (GL1)... But.

It´s a nearly four years old camera and i´m thinking of the future and well discussed HDX... will it be difficult to change the configuration from one camera to the other? or i will be able to ask you for any piece to make it?

Things are getting near and i´m loving it! Mi XM is getting excited...

Obin, try me again.

Ivan, switching cameras should be fine. I believe the new rail setup will adjust fine.

What follow focus system do you recommend to use in conjunction with this system and say a set of Nikon MF lenses? Also, any thoughts to which lower-cost(under 2gs) steadicam rig?

Also, I didn't seem to find the information on this thread about the loss of light with the adaptor.

Hey Dave,
I've seen a cheaper follow focus unit on ebay, but haven't seen it in a while. I've thought about building one myself.

The magiqcam is awesome.

Thanks!

JAMES I need to place an order...guys on the board..I don't know what mount to get for the first test run at this project...canon nikon? what? please help FAST as I have a project coming in for this setup and I need to make an order for some lenses for this unit ASAP

James what did you use for glass on the pics with the matte box on teh front?

what I feel would be the most important thing would be EASY SMOOTH focus.the WORST part of my homemade GG Adaptor is the focus..every friggen time I focus the image shakes. this is from the crappy mount I have ..how is the micro35? what LENS would give me a solid smooth focus?

Obin,
I was using a Sigma 24-70 lens.

You can achieve a smooth focus with this setup. But you must have a decent lens that isn't loose.

The rails are very tight!

Hope this helps!

James

update please
 

James, could you please take a moment and give us all an informative and concise update on where you are with regard to: shipping the "how to" manuals, general R&D, the status of ordering the kits, taking orders on the pre-builts, etc., etc., etc.

Thanks dude!

Any thoughts on oscillating glass either?

James,

I'm still waiting on the guides. The packages are ready to ship, I'm just waiting for the guides to arrive from the printers. I've been in contact with them several times. We've had problem after problem. Because of the long delay, I've decided to ship a new GG and sticker with every guide.

I'm finished with R&D. I'm currently setting up the outsource production line. The standard adapter will use a C-Mount. Then depending on what lens system you order for, I'll use a C-Mount to SLR adapter. This should make every system the same and should keep assembly moving at a decent pace.

Once the outsource assembly is up, I'll have parts to sell as "Kit only". I'll also be selling the parts individually for those who are building the adapter.

I've taken several orders on pre-builts to help get the assembly process worked out. This is how we ended up with the new rails.

By the way, the rails we be selling for $250 by themselves.

Dave,
Unless you just like spending money, there's no need for an oscillating glass. The current device looks just as good as any oscillating device I've seen.


Hope this helps guys.

James

James,

Not to get off topic or anything, but I thought the idea behind the oscillating glass was the ability to use higher f-stops. That ability would be great if it could be a part of the system.

-Dave

I'm very happy with the F-Stops on the micro35. Actually, I believe the osciallting idea is so you can move the glass and not get any specific visible patterns. It really doesn't have anything to do with the F-Stops.

james

What is the highest f-stop you can go to before seeing the glass?

Have you fitted an adapter to a Canon XL-1s yet? I am very interested in the whole package as long as it's below $1000 finished, ready to shoot.

James is that Sigma a AF SLR without Iris on the outside(manual iris)?? is that a Canon mount?

Hello James,
been following your development and bought into your guide a few weeks back. Looking forward to having a leg up on the engineering. Got a few Nikkor choices coming.

PS: Thank you for the upgrade to a GG and sticker.

jh

Dave,
I think you're talking about the shutter speed. I went to 1/250 comfortably today testing the last round of GGs.

Turns out, the 60 will probably be the way to go. The 40, 30 and 20 looked great, but I slowly started losing DOF as I went down. The 40 actually looked a little too cloudy. 60 Looks awesome.

Obin, my sigma is an AF SLR without a manual iris. After playing with the lomo today, I've learned having iris control is pretty sweet. The resolution looked much better controlling the iris than just flipping an ND on. Adding the ND caused a little resolution loss. So I'll probably check out some Nikon lenses since my canon doesn't have the manual iris.

No problem on the sticker. It's actually one of those 'Domed' stickers. They look pretty sweet on the adapter.

Here's a couple of caps using my DIY 'dvrack'ish' software. It sure makes it easier to focus when using the adapter.

www.micro35.com/pics/test.jpg
www.micro35.com/pics/test2.jpg

They were cap'd using the LOMO lens. I'm told it's his 'bad' lens. He sent to me to use for machining the LOMO mount.

James

How was your test with the Sony HDV Camera?

I haven't got to test it yet....

<<<-- Originally posted by James Hurd : I think you're talking about the shutter speed. >>>

I was actually talking about F-stop. For example on Charles Papert's review of the 400 series mini35, he mentions that the oscillating glass allows for deeper t-stops. One of the main problems with the 300 series is that you can't shoot any higher than 3.5 basically. On the other hand I have shot all the way to 1/4000 shutter with the 300 series and have had no serious grain issues.

Why did you letterbox the vid-caps, James?

I am new to the minidv world but I have read this entire post and am overwhelmed and intrigued. I would like to purchase a pre-assembled unit but I have a few questions.

1. You were talking about the image being flipped, have you fixed this? Is there a way to fix it on my XL2?

2. I have no idea when it comes to lenses, what kind of lenses would you reccomend I purchase for this set-up? I shoot outside mostly (motocross videos)

3. Have you gotten a set-up to work with the XL2 yet?

4. Is audio recording still feasible with this set-up?

5. Does the $500 price tag include everything? (mounts, rails, gg. lenses, etc.)

Mandy,
My camera was in letter box mode when I'd ran outside and filmed the horses. The resolution charts aren't letter boxed.

Brad,
1. I haven't gotten a chance to work with the XL2.
2. 35mm SLR (Nikon or Canon)
3. See #1 (I'm wanting to though!)
4. THe adapter doesn't affect the audio.
5. Everything but the 35mm lens.

Hope this helps!!

James

<<<-- Originally posted by James Hurd : Mandy,

1. I haven't gotten a chance to work with the XL2.


James -->>>

<<<-- Originally posted by James Hurd : Mandy,

1. I haven't gotten a chance to work with the XL2.


James -->>>

Do you know when you will get a chance to work with an XL2? I noticed a few pages back that someone in your area offered to let you use his. Once you get something worked out for the XL2 I will buy one (maybe 2)

Sounds great Brad. I'll keep you posted!

Brad, I have the same questions about James's gadget with the XL2. My impression is that James has gotten a bigger response to his design & product than he may have expected. Still, he's been diligent about responding, given the overload of work required to get tooled up in a professional way.

I expect, inferring James's ingenuity (from afar; dunno the guy in person), that---if we XL2 owners wait a bit---he'll rig up a solution to the image-output problem. Before then its absence may be inhibiting to XL2 shooters. This is just my guess, of course, and James may tell me to go somewhere hot and uncomfortable. He's surprised me before.

To date, the photos James has released show his gadget mounted to a DVX100 and, as you may know, that flip-out viewfinder can be tricked into inverting its image by the judicious insertion of a small magnet.

As an XL2 owner, I'll withhold my buying decision 'til I see James's plans. I want my "viewfinder" to be upright and correct right-to-left, and need to see how that can be done.

Thanks John,
You're correct. The response has been very overwhelming. I'm getting the DVX (and other straight forward cameras) units in production as we speak. This should give me the time I need to concentrate on the XL1/XL2 solution. I'm very excited about getting the XL2 solution completed. I just need to focus on getting the DVX solution running on autopilot.

We'll get there.

hey, James - just so you know about Sony HDV FX1/Z1U
 

At first glance it looks to be different but upon removing the lens hood you'll find the Sony HDV cam has the same 72 mm as DVX... in case you were wondering and had not yet gotten first-hand time with the Sony cam...

Hope this helps!

Brad and John,

You may want to check out the following thread:

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23982

I tested the magnet trick this weekend on my GL2, and it works perfectly. You may want to try your own tests on the XL2 and see if it works.

Brett

Brett, thanks for the link. Unfortunately, the XL2 doesn't have a flip-out LCD monitor. Its viewfinder is a separate electronic/optical tube, patterned after the big ENG cams and cabled to the body via a proprietary plug. It can be removed entirely and remounted on the "wrong" side of the XL2, which flips the image vertically. Flipping it horizontally will be harder.

I believe James once speculated in these pages about an in-line converter which would emulate the "magnet trick." But such a solution will require a fair amount of testing (to map the viewfinder pinouts, rewire them &c) and experimenting.