It's when I put white text on a pure black background.

It's no biggie, but I was wondering if there's a quick fix to this.

Thanks

Gerald,

Can you provide some more details about what you are doing and seeing? Are you rendering to a particular codec (DV, WMV, etc.)? If so, at what resolution? Are the titles moving?

The DV codec can sometimes show a few pixels being the wrong color since color is only sampled every 4 pixels. To check to see if this is what you are seeing, try rendering to MPEG2 or WMV.

Randall

I think there is an option to "open copy in soundforge"

Rob Lohman: How do you de-interlace each clip on the timeline? When you set the preferences, don't the clips automatically get de-interlaced as soon as you pop them on the time line?

I don't know, Hugh. I never de-interlaced anything in Vegas because
I shoot progressive. But if you add something to the timeline
right-click on the event and make sure the it is interpreted as
progressive (none) instead of lower field first. Also make sure
your project is progressive and when you output you set it to
progressive as well (default is interlaced EVEN with a progressive
project!!!!)

Thanks guys. I found that the Graphic EQ did the best job of removing the hiss.

I'm thinking about buying the 4 disc DVD training video on vegas 4.0 and wanted to ask you guys if you know about the video. Like is he on the computer doing samples or screen shots. I have heard alot about and have done my research but have not found out if he is on a computer or just talking.

The broadcast safe filters are under Video FX and are called "Broadcast Colors". They allow you to set up clipping ranges for both Luma and Chroma individually, and with both combined. You can also add in setup.

To remove steady noise, equalizing will go a long way. I once removed the sound of a working electric dishwasher from a shot where the person talking was less than 2 metres from the dishwasher in a small kitchen. But then I used the Sonic Foundry Noise Reduction. I actually bought it for that shot, because equalization got me nowhere. The manual has a section on how to use it with Vegas. And with Sound Forge, if you have that. It's magic.

Jake is right; choose "open copy in Sound Forge" save as many altered copies as you like and then choose which take you want in Vegas.
Randy

Well I´m getting tired of the old Premier I have here.
and want to try Vegas as it seems to fit more my needs.

But the Sonicfoundry site doesn´t mention the Canon XM2 in their Hardware Compatibility and before downloading 40 megs on a modem I would like to know If I can use it with my XM2 for capturing and previewing in an external monitor and print to video and all that kind of stuff you do when do not have a deck...

Any problems with these???

Thanx

Works fine with my XL-1. Shouldn't be a problem with the GL2/XM2 either.

Vegas4 and XM2 here! Works like a dream! :)

All right... Thanxs..

I recorded some audio in only one channel. I want to make it stereo. How do I duplicate that single channel into both channels?
Thanks

If you just want to get the same sound in both the left and right channel, then right click on the audio clip in the timeline, select Channels, then either Left Only or Right Only depending upon which channel has the audio that you want. Now assuming that the audio track's Pan control is in the center, the mono signal will be output to both the left and right stereo channels.

Randall

Perfect!
Thanks. I love easy simple answers, and Vegas always seems to deliver.

Are you talking about Sonic Foundary Noise Reduction 2.0, or sound forge?

Hey Harry,
If you're referring to my post, I mean opening a copy in Sound Forge (from V4), making adjustments, saving (as many instances as you wish) and selecting which take you want to use (or audition) in V4. If you're replying to someone elses post...then never mind : )
Randy

It seems as though we are talking about two different programs here. One is the Noise reduction 2.0, and the other is sound forge. I am trying to decide which one would be the most useful for repairing audio in my video captures, that is why this thread caught my attention. It looks like both programs will help "take the hiss out", clipping etc. The lead thread hear started out talking about the Noise reduction program, and somewhere down the line everyone started talking about Sound Forge, and I got confused.

noise reduction is a plugin that works in both vegas and soundforge. I don't know what I would choose if I had to choose between noise reduction and soundforge. I would try to get both. Are you a student or teacher so you can get the educational discount?

I think if all you want to do is reduce noise get Noise Reduction and use it in Vegas. Sound forge can do more than Vegas can as far as sound goes but you should try to figure out what plug ins/features sound forge has over Vegas then decide if it would be worth it.

What Jake said.
And if you do qualify for the educational price, you can get the bundle for $220 at

http://www.academicsuperstore.com/market/marketdisp.html?PartNo=575042&qk_srch=noise+reduction

Almost worth going back to school for : )
Randy

My daughter is in college?

then have her order it for you

I am working on a one hour documentary and am trying to come up with a good workflow for capturing and cataloging tapes in Vegas. The following is what I want to do:

1. Capture most or all of a tape as a single file. I have the hard disk space for this and capturing once reduces the wear and tear on the tape by not having to go back and forward to set in/out points, etc. for multiple clips.

2. Cut the long clip into multiple short clips while retaining the original timecode and tape name info. This way I don't waste hard disk space for stuff that I don't need. I will delete the big clips once it has been split up.

3. Input the resulting multiple short clips info back into Vegas Capture so that if need be, the short clips could be recaptured from tape.

Number 1 is easy. For number 2, I have experimented with using the Vegas timeline to define regions for each of the short clips, then rendering these to separate files. The main problem is that I lose the original timecode and tape name info. I found a way to retain the timecode by setting the timeline's starting timecode to the starting timecode of the region in the original file. However, I don't see any way to set the tape name in a rendered file.

Number 3 appears to be difficult since the capture database file does not appear to have any API nor appears to be documented. This is not too critical since I can always manually capture a specific timecode range from a tape if I know the original timecode and tape name.

Does anyone know of any scripts for doing number 2 (cutting the big clip into small clips based upon regions and retaining the original time code)?

Randall

Vegas cannot do exactly what you want to do. You can do some similar things but not everything exactly the way you want.

If you simply want to extract the good clips from a larger clip on the timeline, the Tsunami script will do that. However, it will NOT allow you to write it back to a different tape with the same timecode - I know of nothing that will.

If you can keep the original clip, it IS possible to create regions in the trimmer that can be saved and viewed in the EXPLORER window - not the media pool.

Hi everyone,
First time using these boards so bear with me. When I was using Sony Premium DV tapes and importing to Vegas Capture, it would detect each segment of the tape and set make individual files for each place I recorded. Now, I changed tapes to Fuji and it just records one HUGE file. Is this because of the difference of tapes? or did I change a setting without knowing it.


Any responses would help.

Thanks guys.

-Kay

The tape should have NOTHING to do with it. Also, unless you have gone into Options - Preferences and changed the "Enable Scene Detection" setting, this probably also did not change. However, one factor that *may* have changed is your camera. Is the date/time set? If not, set it and it will start working again on newly recorded tapes. Scene detection works on jumps in the date/time of the recording.

You can use Scenalyzer in case you're really stuck. It can split up clips visually (when the picture changes drastically).

You usually need to set the date/time on the camera as was already mentioned.

Thanks for the reply Edward. Where does one find the Tsunami script?

It seems from reading the Vegas Script API that it should be possible to set the timecode correctly in the "good" clips. Does Tsunami attempt to do that?

I don't need to write the good clips back to tape, I just need to keep the original timecode info so that if I need to recapture, I don't have to search the entire tape.

Thanks,

Randall

Wow thanks guys, I'll have to try this out right away. Fast response!


-Kay

I know that you can use hardware rendering with premier on clips that have no effects/transitions. Can Vegas do the same? and if so, what card should I buy. Thanks guys for the support.


-Kay

I don't think so. But if you have no transitions or effects Vegas will render very fast and print to tape over IEEE 1394.

On clips that have no effects or transitions there is NO NEED to render at all! If you print to tape on a cut's only project with no transitions, it will create a W64 file for audio and, otherwise, just start sending the video out the firewire port.

If you to a Print To Tape, ONLY the sections that have been modified in some way will be rendered.

But, NO, Vegas does not use any hardware assistance when rendering.

Tsunami does nothing to timecodes. However, the timecode is in the original AVI file. If you keep the original AVI and just use segments of it, you WILL be using the original timecode. Then if the project needed to be rebuilt, you just re-capture the one LARGE file.

Tsunami can be found at: http://www.jetdv.com/tsunami

Thanks Edward. I am working on a Vegas script to do what I want but seem to have found a bug in that changing the RulerProperties.StartTime via the script does not cause the subsquent render to set the TimeCodeIn of the resulting file to the StartTime. If you do this manually, it works correctly, but in the script it does not. I have a UpdateUI command after setting the StartTime, but that does not help even though it does get updated on the screen.

I guess that I need to send a bug report to Sony.

Thanks,

Randall

I synced up two clips using Excalibur's Sync Wizard tool using a photographer's flash as a reference. As I watch the footage I can tell it's perfectly in sync because further photography flashes line up as well. However by the end of the clip (8 minutes aproximately) I get a one frame offset. Clip A's flash is one frame ahead of clib B's. Now both clips were filmed on different cameras (A DVX100 and a GL-1) What could cause this 1 frame discrepency on my sync?

Was the photographer standing in a different place? Camera aimed a different direction? Maybe the distance relative to each camera changed enough to account for 1/30 of a second. For one frame, I definitely wouldn't worry about it.

Hey everyone,
I just got Vegas Video 4d. And can't sem to be bale to capture from Canopus Storm2 edit bay via firewire slot. It works fine through premiere, but it doesn't recognize anything in Vegas. Although it does list the device under "video" menu in the capture window.

What am i doing wrong here?

You know I thought about that but tried to put it in perspective....I doubt the speed of light would be that "slow" though it would explain it because both cameras were in different locations/distnaces.

Speaking of....I've been having difficulties with the multi-cam tool, though it could be because it's not meant to do what I'm trying to do with it. Here's what's happening: I have one long clip of the two formal dances (bride/father, groom/mother) from both cameras. The cameras rolled the entire time without any cuts so I chose a basic flash as the sync point between the two clips. After synced I realized there was a large gap between the two dances I wanted out so I cut that section out leaving two separate sections of synced clips. I then added markers to use for the multicam edit tool. When I run Exalibur the first section moves up to the master track with all the edits correctly intact but the second section of clips doesn't lay correctly. It's like the one clip is moved in it's entirety to the master track and the other clip's sections are "punched" in over top of it negating the dissolve I had configured.
What could cause this? Is it because there was a physical gap between the two sections of synced clips and it wasn't contiguous? I even tried to do one section at a time by limiting which clips were selected by using the ctrl+click method but the multicam tool always seemed to work on both sets of clips (maybe because they are from the same original files)?

The Canopus Storm bay isn't OHCI compliant. Your fire-wire/IEEE-1394 port has to be OHCI compliant for Vegas to use it. Any standard 1394 port built in to newer motherboards should work fine. Even the 1394 on the Audigy 1&2 work as well.

Possibly. Here's what I do in this situation. At the end of the first dance, place a marker indicating you want to use at the beginning of the second dance. Manually split all tracks at this marker point. Now move forward on the timeline to the beginning of the second dance and manually split all tracks at that point. Delete the unwanted section and move the second dance back to where the marker was placed. This process has worked very well for me. As for the other, I have not seen that happen. BTW, what version of Excalibur are you using?

You may also check with Canopus to see if they have a driver that will make it OHCI compliant. However, you will also not get any speed benefits from that card in Vegas.

alright, i'll play around with that. thanks

Well Ed is right that there's no way the speed of light would come into effect here, or ever in normal video editing (sound is an entirely different story, but not in play here)

Here's what likely happened.

Since the two cameras are not perfectly in sync, you are manually syncing them. But you can only move the clips by frame increments (33 ms). But the cameras themselves are not off by perfect 33 ms increments, they're actually off somewhere inbetween frames. So when you finally sync the cameras, here's what you get.

A: 111|222|333|444|555|666|777|888|999
B: 112|223|334|445|556|667|778|889|990

A and B are your cameras with "|" designating frames. The numbers represent what those cameras were picking up in real time. The first "2" in camera A (which occurs in frame 2 in your final video) represents the exact same point in realtime as the first 2 in camera B (which occurs in frame 1 in your final video).

If an event (like a flash) occured right after the third 8 on either track, you will see that in camer A, it would show up in frame 9, but in camera B, it would show up in frame 8. As you can see, 2/3 of the time, simultaneous events will appear in the same frame in both cameras, but 1/3 of the time they will not.

If you try moving around either track, the problem will just be worse because you can only move in full-frame increments.

"Quantize to Frames" is useful for synching audio but probably won't work for this problem because I've never tried it with video-video synching. But you can try.

My recommendation actually would be to ignore it, as it will never happen more than half the time (depending on how much the cameras are truly out of sync, which you'll never know) and when it does happen it will never be more than a frame off. For lip synching, it will be unnoticeable because at least 1/2 of the mouth movements will look perfect, and the rest will be one frame off, and that's more than enough to fool the eye.

Pretty detailed explanaition for a "hobbyist"! (Read your profile, lol) So in short-hand it's normal, I knew it really wouldn't have any negligable impact on the video but I'm a perfectionist. Thanks!

Ed I'm assuming I'm still running 1.0 but I did get the upgrade you mailed me. Is it actually an upgrade or a stand-alone?

LOL. :) I learned a ton about this topic by editing a DVD of a 3-camera, 2-night, 2-audio-source recording of a 3-hour musical (i.e. 18 hours of footage and 12 hours of audio). All in Vegas.

In over my head? Hell yeah! But after only 4 months of non-stop work (an entire summer!) I came out something of an expert. :)

Glen, just install it and it will replace the existing one. All of these installs are "full versions". However, you WILL have to be on at least 4.0c. This fixed some problems in Multi-cam where events were not moved to the master track correctly. I have used version 1.5 extensively and it seems solid.

Hello DVDA folks,

Need help on DVDA. have done all the upgrades, my need is basic, I created a file, created a button, double click on button and my video comes up at the bottom of the time scale, preview does preview my video, file is saved, was imported as mpeg2 and ac-3, put burned disc in home DVD player, menu comes up, my picture I selected is the background, button I made has the right picture in it, press play, counter starts, picture turns black, gets to 6 or 7 seconds into playing and goes back to beggining menu. trying to create a basic DVD, one title, one button, nothing fancy but I obviously don't know what I am doing. Read the book, followed the steps, I originally used DVD-RW so as not to waste and thought that was the problem, so I tried DVD-R and made a coaster, any help appreciated. (this is obviously my first time using vegas 4 and DVD A). It's like I have missed something (the link) between the button and the video. Can I use RW and expect it to play in my RCA home DVD player?? Tried disc in computer and windows XP Pro media player said could not play "Error ID = 0xC00D116A, Remedy ID = 0x00000000"

P.S. When I save files they end in INK??

At this point brain surgery seems it would be an easier thing to learn. I will continue reading,

Thanks for any help.

To create a DVD with a single button pointing to a single menu, start a new standard DVD project, drag the file from the explorer window to the menu. That's it. Then tell it to prepare and burn and you should be done.

Take a look at Issue #7 of my newsletter at http://www.jetdv.com/tts