Saved by the Rod!

Tom Van den Berghe · September 1st, 2014, 05:28 AM

Chris,

I don't understand.
If I unscrew the bottom plastic plate and look into the tube I see it's already drilled. So why can't I cut here a part of it? See attached picture. and after cutting screw bottom plastic plate back in?

Looks so easy this way?

Chris Harding · September 1st, 2014, 07:14 AM

Hi Tom

You are looking at the wrong end!! The mod is done on the other end!!! Where the flexi shaft is ..all we are doing is reducing the length of the plastic fitting between the top tube (smallest diameter) and the flexi shaft that goes into the fitting under your camera

so......looking at the TOP of the rod completely opposite to your pic......

(1) Unscrew the flexi-joint so you have just the plastic fitting attached to the rod.
(2) look at the top few millimetres of the rod and you will see a pin securing it to the top tube. Use a nail and a light hammer to simply drive it out (the hole goes right thru)
(3) Pull out the plastic fitting and you will see the top is the fat bit and the end piece is the thinner piece that went inside the top tube.
(4) Drill a 5mm hole right thru from top to bottom ...it's already drilled 3/4 way so just continue the hole so it exits out the skinny bit at the bottom.
(5) Use a 1/4"BSW tap (cheap at the hardware store) and cut a thread starting at the thin end where your drill bit came out and turn the tap in until a thread has been cut the length of the thin section only.
(6) Use a hacksaw to cut off just the thin section and wack it back into the top tube and because you have a thread going thru the middle now ..screw the flexi-joint into that and discard the fat section of plastic

Ok once that is done your rod is now 3" shorter (because we have cut away the fat part of the black plastic fitting) Then I have left the bottom end of the rod exactly as your pic shows and used my new fitting shown in my pic in post #6

The top of the rod should look like the pic here

Chris

Tom Van den Berghe · September 1st, 2014, 09:47 AM

step 1 I finally found what you mean.
but about step 2 I doubt: in the picture I have put a yellow and blue circle. Which color do you mean with:

a pin securing it to the top tube ?

I already tried the blue option but couldn't drive it out. I hope you mean the yellow circle. (didn't tried that one)

Sorry, Chris.

Chris Harding · September 1st, 2014, 06:03 PM

Hi Tom

Don't touch the bottom of the rod (blue circle) you only need to tap the pin out where you have marked the yellow circle ... just find a thin nail and gently tap the pin and it will push out so you can pull the black plastic bit from the top tube.

Chris

Tom Van den Berghe · September 2nd, 2014, 12:41 PM

chris,

I don't know how you did it but this didn't worked out for me.
I did it my way. Just cut a part of the rod and the spring. (first removed the spring out of the rod)

For me this just easier, . Just tested it and it works! Still a bit too long. Will cut later more of it.

Chris Harding · September 2nd, 2014, 06:32 PM

Hi Tom

I did that the first time (I have two of these rods) and the biggest issue is that if you cut the spring what you do is increase it's tension and make it less flexible. I found with shorter springs I simply didn't have enough travel to use the rod successfully so I found keeping the length was better. May I suggest that you look around locally (with a sample spring in hand) and try to replace both springs with ones that have a slightly thinner diameter wire ?? That will bring back the flexibility to the rod. Otherwise it will be way to stiff if you need to tilt down the camera

Chris

Tom Van den Berghe · November 4th, 2014, 02:57 PM

have posted a picture of me in action with the rod. Glad I bought it. Thanks Chris!

Noa Put · November 4th, 2014, 03:08 PM

I want my camera back! :) That's quite a set up you got there Tom, it looks like you also need to shorten the loupe?

Chris Harding · November 4th, 2014, 04:25 PM

Great Tom

It makes a huge difference when you especially have a heavy lens up front!! My 18-35 Sigma F1.8 is a brute at almost 1kg so I really need the support with that one especially for long periods!

Absolutely yes..shorten your loupe tube! It makes a huge difference as the camera will sit better on your shoulder as the tube is shorter. If you look at yourself in a mirror with the normal length you will see that the pad sits too far forward and with the shorter tube the pad sits on your shoulder where it should sit!

Don't worry, Noa is happy with his GH4!!

Chris

Tom Van den Berghe · November 5th, 2014, 12:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noa Put

I want my camera back! :) That's quite a set up you got there Tom, it looks like you also need to shorten the loupe?

The rod is from 2 "sticks" I removed 1 stick. With the manfrotto simply handles I can switch position with my hands. Without the rod is not possible, way too heavy!

Steven Digges · November 14th, 2014, 09:49 AM

It looks like Tom is protecting his lens from nuclear explosions and major sun flares.! That camera is now as big as the rover ESA just landed on a comet! In fact, he could mount solar panels on those barn doors and power the camera.

Chris, Thank you for all of the time and effort you put into sharing your experience with all of us on this forum. This tread is just one of many examples of what you do here!

Steve

Chris Harding · November 14th, 2014, 06:57 PM

Hi Steve

My big problem is that I still don't listen!! Yeah I just HAD to also get matte boxes and the camera was so darn front heavy I was expecting to pull a muscle in my back! I sold off the matte boxes quite fast. I would think that the boxes combined with a decent lens would more than equal the weight of the camera!

Chris

Tom Van den Berghe · February 24th, 2015, 01:31 PM

can I use this rod for using a steadycam?
Can I put the rod into a steadycam? After filming carnival and walked all the time the footage is not realy steady.

Look @ my trailer here:

@ 2min06 sec you see what I mean when filming and walking. I think a steadycam would be usefull for this.
But a steadycam without an "arm" will be too heavy. Was walking around for about 3 hours!

I have no experience with a steadycam.

@Chris, my back was still ok after this filming. Can't thank you enough for this.

Chris Harding · February 24th, 2015, 05:37 PM

Hi Tom

Nice job there!! Yes you are correct in saying that the support rod will not work like a stedicam ! It's perfect when you are in one place but will NOT absorb any shock movements as you walk or run. You need a stedicam for moving shots. It's OK if you move very slowly but as you walk with the rod you will find it tends to move left and right creating bumps in the footage. It certainly does help a LOT by stopping your arms getting tired!!!

Chris

Tom Van den Berghe · February 25th, 2015, 12:31 AM

Hey Chris, thx for the answer but still don't know if I can put the the rod into a steadycam?
Could I put the flexible joint from the rod into the bottom of the grip of a steadycam?

This could save me a lot of money.

September 1st, 2014, 05:28 AM	#31
Tom Van den Berghe Major Player Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: BELGIUM Posts: 395	Re: Saved by the Rod! Chris, I don't understand. If I unscrew the bottom plastic plate and look into the tube I see it's already drilled. So why can't I cut here a part of it? See attached picture. and after cutting screw bottom plastic plate back in? Looks so easy this way? Attached Thumbnails

September 1st, 2014, 07:14 AM	#32
Chris Harding Inner Circle Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 8,441	Re: Saved by the Rod! Hi Tom You are looking at the wrong end!! The mod is done on the other end!!! Where the flexi shaft is ..all we are doing is reducing the length of the plastic fitting between the top tube (smallest diameter) and the flexi shaft that goes into the fitting under your camera so......looking at the TOP of the rod completely opposite to your pic...... (1) Unscrew the flexi-joint so you have just the plastic fitting attached to the rod. (2) look at the top few millimetres of the rod and you will see a pin securing it to the top tube. Use a nail and a light hammer to simply drive it out (the hole goes right thru) (3) Pull out the plastic fitting and you will see the top is the fat bit and the end piece is the thinner piece that went inside the top tube. (4) Drill a 5mm hole right thru from top to bottom ...it's already drilled 3/4 way so just continue the hole so it exits out the skinny bit at the bottom. (5) Use a 1/4"BSW tap (cheap at the hardware store) and cut a thread starting at the thin end where your drill bit came out and turn the tap in until a thread has been cut the length of the thin section only. (6) Use a hacksaw to cut off just the thin section and wack it back into the top tube and because you have a thread going thru the middle now ..screw the flexi-joint into that and discard the fat section of plastic Ok once that is done your rod is now 3" shorter (because we have cut away the fat part of the black plastic fitting) Then I have left the bottom end of the rod exactly as your pic shows and used my new fitting shown in my pic in post #6 The top of the rod should look like the pic here Chris Attached Thumbnails

September 1st, 2014, 09:47 AM	#33
Tom Van den Berghe Major Player Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: BELGIUM Posts: 395	Re: Saved by the Rod! step 1 I finally found what you mean. but about step 2 I doubt: in the picture I have put a yellow and blue circle. Which color do you mean with: a pin securing it to the top tube ? I already tried the blue option but couldn't drive it out. I hope you mean the yellow circle. (didn't tried that one) Sorry, Chris. Attached Thumbnails

September 1st, 2014, 06:03 PM	#34
Chris Harding Inner Circle Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 8,441	Re: Saved by the Rod! Hi Tom Don't touch the bottom of the rod (blue circle) you only need to tap the pin out where you have marked the yellow circle ... just find a thin nail and gently tap the pin and it will push out so you can pull the black plastic bit from the top tube. Chris

September 2nd, 2014, 12:41 PM	#35
Tom Van den Berghe Major Player Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: BELGIUM Posts: 395	Re: Saved by the Rod! chris, I don't know how you did it but this didn't worked out for me. I did it my way. Just cut a part of the rod and the spring. (first removed the spring out of the rod) For me this just easier, . Just tested it and it works! Still a bit too long. Will cut later more of it. Attached Thumbnails

September 2nd, 2014, 06:32 PM	#36
Chris Harding Inner Circle Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 8,441	Re: Saved by the Rod! Hi Tom I did that the first time (I have two of these rods) and the biggest issue is that if you cut the spring what you do is increase it's tension and make it less flexible. I found with shorter springs I simply didn't have enough travel to use the rod successfully so I found keeping the length was better. May I suggest that you look around locally (with a sample spring in hand) and try to replace both springs with ones that have a slightly thinner diameter wire ?? That will bring back the flexibility to the rod. Otherwise it will be way to stiff if you need to tilt down the camera Chris

November 4th, 2014, 02:57 PM	#37
Tom Van den Berghe Major Player Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: BELGIUM Posts: 395	Re: Saved by the Rod! have posted a picture of me in action with the rod. Glad I bought it. Thanks Chris! Attached Thumbnails

November 4th, 2014, 03:08 PM	#38
Noa Put Inner Circle Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Belgium Posts: 9,509	Re: Saved by the Rod! I want my camera back! :) That's quite a set up you got there Tom, it looks like you also need to shorten the loupe?

November 4th, 2014, 04:25 PM	#39
Chris Harding Inner Circle Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 8,441	Re: Saved by the Rod! Great Tom It makes a huge difference when you especially have a heavy lens up front!! My 18-35 Sigma F1.8 is a brute at almost 1kg so I really need the support with that one especially for long periods! Absolutely yes..shorten your loupe tube! It makes a huge difference as the camera will sit better on your shoulder as the tube is shorter. If you look at yourself in a mirror with the normal length you will see that the pad sits too far forward and with the shorter tube the pad sits on your shoulder where it should sit! Don't worry, Noa is happy with his GH4!! Chris Last edited by Chris Harding; November 4th, 2014 at 07:36 PM.

November 14th, 2014, 09:49 AM	#41
Steven Digges Trustee Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 1,828	Re: Saved by the Rod! It looks like Tom is protecting his lens from nuclear explosions and major sun flares.! That camera is now as big as the rover ESA just landed on a comet! In fact, he could mount solar panels on those barn doors and power the camera. Chris, Thank you for all of the time and effort you put into sharing your experience with all of us on this forum. This tread is just one of many examples of what you do here! Steve __________________ www.CorporateShow.com Been at this so long I'm rounding my years of experience down...not up!

November 14th, 2014, 06:57 PM	#42
Chris Harding Inner Circle Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 8,441	Re: Saved by the Rod! Hi Steve My big problem is that I still don't listen!! Yeah I just HAD to also get matte boxes and the camera was so darn front heavy I was expecting to pull a muscle in my back! I sold off the matte boxes quite fast. I would think that the boxes combined with a decent lens would more than equal the weight of the camera! Chris

February 24th, 2015, 01:31 PM	#43
Tom Van den Berghe Major Player Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: BELGIUM Posts: 395	Re: Saved by the Rod! can I use this rod for using a steadycam? Can I put the rod into a steadycam? After filming carnival and walked all the time the footage is not realy steady. Look @ my trailer here: trailer carnaval moes-kastel 2015 - YouTube @ 2min06 sec you see what I mean when filming and walking. I think a steadycam would be usefull for this. But a steadycam without an "arm" will be too heavy. Was walking around for about 3 hours! I have no experience with a steadycam. @Chris, my back was still ok after this filming. Can't thank you enough for this.

February 24th, 2015, 05:37 PM	#44
Chris Harding Inner Circle Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Perth, Western Australia Posts: 8,441	Re: Saved by the Rod! Hi Tom Nice job there!! Yes you are correct in saying that the support rod will not work like a stedicam ! It's perfect when you are in one place but will NOT absorb any shock movements as you walk or run. You need a stedicam for moving shots. It's OK if you move very slowly but as you walk with the rod you will find it tends to move left and right creating bumps in the footage. It certainly does help a LOT by stopping your arms getting tired!!! Chris

February 25th, 2015, 12:31 AM	#45
Tom Van den Berghe Major Player Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: BELGIUM Posts: 395	Re: Saved by the Rod! Hey Chris, thx for the answer but still don't know if I can put the the rod into a steadycam? Could I put the flexible joint from the rod into the bottom of the grip of a steadycam? This could save me a lot of money.