Various GL1 / XM1 questions

Chris Hurd · September 9th, 2003, 12:49 PM

It's very hard to say. They're pretty good at calling you with an estimate before they start work, so perhaps you could report back to us and let us know how much it is. Thanks,

Bud Kuenzli · September 11th, 2003, 06:19 PM

I recently had my little ZR10 repaired after i dropped it. They said it would be $250 minimum and that's what they charged me in the end. This may not apply at all to the GL2 but a quick phone call to Canon may turn up some generalities like this minimum charge. I would guess that for a standard clean and adjust they have a set fee.

Richard R Rivera · November 11th, 2003, 04:11 AM

Hi every one i need a little help?

I have a Gl1 and gl2, the cl2 works great and stays on if you put a svideo into it. My qustion is how do you keep the gl1 running when your not taping and your only plugging a s-video to it for use with a switcher. the gl2 works great and doesnt shut off. can any one point me in the right direction here.

Ken Tanaka · November 11th, 2003, 11:45 AM

The GL1 pre-dates the power saving features of the GL2. So it will automatically power-down.

Try opening the tape door. I've not owned a GL1 for quite some time but I think this might defeat the power-down.

Stu Minnis · November 14th, 2003, 07:56 AM

This probably isn't the answer you're looking for, but if you record to tape during your shoot, it won't power off. This has the added advantage of giving you a backup for switching mistakes.

Robert Mann Z. · November 14th, 2003, 04:41 PM

I used my gl1 for shoot to a betasp deck 2 hours, it did not shut down at all, if you have the manual there should be info about it in there, i don't remeber but i did not have a tape in the gl1 as teh shoot was two hours and it was uninterrupted..

Kris Durkin · November 23rd, 2003, 06:10 PM

Hi,
Was wondering what kind of filter can i buy for my gl1 that will help soften the image to make it appear more film like?
thanx,
-Kris

Ken Tanaka · November 23rd, 2003, 07:28 PM

Tiffen, and others, make a variety of diffusion and contrast control filters for this purpose. See the Tiffen site for examples.

Rob Lohman · November 24th, 2003, 01:47 PM

Ofcourse you can also soften an image by turning down the
sharpness in the camera or do it in post (longer rendering times,
but perhaps more control).

Boyd Ostroff · November 24th, 2003, 02:00 PM

What NLE are you using? If it's Final Cut Pro then have a look at Joe's Diffuser. It really gives you a lot of control and can produce some very nice effects. It's true that you will have to do rendering, but the problem with physical filters is that it can be very difficult to see what they're doing on location unless you're using a good monitor. The viewfinder and flip-out LCD aren't high enough resolution to really show that kind of detail. And if you don't like the effect, you're out of luck. That's why I personally prefer doing this sort of thing in post.

Devin Doyle · December 7th, 2003, 08:36 PM

I was a strong believer in Canon quality for the longest, despite reading about the problems that some people had with their GL2's/GL1's. Then my friend's GL1 failed to playback tapes correctly. Eventually he replaced it with a GL2 that also had to be sent into Canon's repair factory twice for similar problems.

Then just last week my LCD screen quit working on my GL1 (unless you flip it all the way to "portrait mode" which is when the LCD faces the lens - which is of little use unless you're cheesin'). The reason for this? I have no idea. I've taken care of my camera like it was my own child. It always resides right side up in my dry kata bag when not in use, and is never lent out to anyone.

So, my point in this thread is to ask: has anyone else had this problem?

Don Palomaki · December 8th, 2003, 04:40 AM

Sounds like an issue with the two ribbon cables that connect the LCD to the rest of the camcorder. Pivoting stresses the cables, may have loosened one of the connectors.

Your freind's problem sounds a bit like his video life is star-crossed. One or two problem could be mgfr. defects, but three times implies his use of the gear is unusually severe.

Devin Doyle · December 8th, 2003, 08:14 AM

I figured it was only a loose connection. Unfortunately I'm now at the mercy of canon repair. My friend did treat his equipment well, but he did lend it out to some fellow students - that's the catch 22. I figured it got man-handled out in the field. Anyways, thanks for the post!

John McCauley · December 18th, 2003, 07:43 AM

We have a GL1 on permanant loan which I've been using to tape our dance company, so I'm using it only in theaters with theater lighting. There was one particuar lighting setting we used recently that caused what I would cause a bizarre color shift. In summary blue areas shifted to purple as the blue intensity increased to overexposure.

I'm gained up 9db and shooting nearly wide open. As you know there is huge dynamic range in theaters so where the footers hit the white cyc there is an overexposed hot-spot.

The Let's go to the examples:

1) The reference, a far shot from a PD150
http://homepage.mac.com/bowenmccauleydance/farpd150.jpg

2) The same shot from the GL1 http://homepage.mac.com/bowenmccauleydance/fargl1.jpg

3) A close-in from the GL1 shot earlier that day http://homepage.mac.com/bowenmccauleydance/closegl1.jpg

4) A close-in from the PD150 http://homepage.mac.com/bowenmccauleydance/closepd150.jpg

Those purple spots should be overexposed whites. All settings in the GL1 for color shift are default (no CP in the viewfinder). Unfortunately, I can't easily set up tests to see if the color shifter will help as these theaters are not readily available. But it doesn't seem to me that the color shift adjust has a huge latitude.

So my questions is dose this GL1 look normal or at least "yeah, funky, but GL1's do that?" I probably need a VX2000 but hate to give back this freebie GL1.

Tom Voigt · December 18th, 2003, 12:37 PM

I shoot dance and theater with a GL-2 and sometimes additional Optura Pi's, so your shots sure did look familiar!

I think the shots will match up fairly well once you do color correction. Notice that not only the blue cyc but also the skin tones are dramatically different - warm and golden in the GL-1.

Using the 3 color wheels in Vegas, my own "Warm Corrector" preset is 310 degrees with setting with darks at .150, midtones at .300 and brights at .600. Try applying this to the GL-1 footage.

The GL-2 (and the GL-1 as well) seems to run quite red. Try rolling down towards Green on the custom preset by one or two notches. Also try using the tungsten white balance rather than automatic white balance or setting the white balance.

Hope this helps.

-Tom-

September 9th, 2003, 12:49 PM	#286
Chris Hurd Obstreperous Rex Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: San Marcos, TX Posts: 27,366 Images: 513	It's very hard to say. They're pretty good at calling you with an estimate before they start work, so perhaps you could report back to us and let us know how much it is. Thanks, __________________ CH Search DV Info Net \| 20 years of DVi \| ...Tuesday is Soylent Green Day!

September 11th, 2003, 06:19 PM	#287
Bud Kuenzli Regular Crew Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: North Pole, Alaska Posts: 197	minimum costs I recently had my little ZR10 repaired after i dropped it. They said it would be $250 minimum and that's what they charged me in the end. This may not apply at all to the GL2 but a quick phone call to Canon may turn up some generalities like this minimum charge. I would guess that for a standard clean and adjust they have a set fee. __________________ on the Internet, when you get where you're going you still don't know where you are

November 11th, 2003, 04:11 AM	#288
Richard R Rivera New Boot Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Miami, Florida Posts: 22	How to keep the gl1 running Hi every one i need a little help? I have a Gl1 and gl2, the cl2 works great and stays on if you put a svideo into it. My qustion is how do you keep the gl1 running when your not taping and your only plugging a s-video to it for use with a switcher. the gl2 works great and doesnt shut off. can any one point me in the right direction here. __________________ If you dont use it , you'll just loose it!

November 11th, 2003, 11:45 AM	#289
Ken Tanaka Retired DV Info Net Almunus Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 6,943	The GL1 pre-dates the power saving features of the GL2. So it will automatically power-down. Try opening the tape door. I've not owned a GL1 for quite some time but I think this might defeat the power-down. __________________ Lady X Films: A lady with a boring wardrobe...and a global mission. Hey, you don't have enough stuff! Buy with confidence from our sponsors. Hand-picked as the best in the business...Really! See some of my work one frame at a time: www.KenTanaka.com

November 14th, 2003, 07:56 AM	#290
Stu Minnis Regular Crew Join Date: May 2003 Location: Virginia Beach, VA Posts: 44	run a tape This probably isn't the answer you're looking for, but if you record to tape during your shoot, it won't power off. This has the added advantage of giving you a backup for switching mistakes.

November 14th, 2003, 04:41 PM	#291
Robert Mann Z. Skyonic New York Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: NYC Posts: 614	I used my gl1 for shoot to a betasp deck 2 hours, it did not shut down at all, if you have the manual there should be info about it in there, i don't remeber but i did not have a tape in the gl1 as teh shoot was two hours and it was uninterrupted..

November 23rd, 2003, 06:10 PM	#292
Kris Durkin New Boot Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: seattle Posts: 7	Filter to Soften Image on Gl1 Hi, Was wondering what kind of filter can i buy for my gl1 that will help soften the image to make it appear more film like? thanx, -Kris

November 23rd, 2003, 07:28 PM	#293
Ken Tanaka Retired DV Info Net Almunus Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 6,943	Tiffen, and others, make a variety of diffusion and contrast control filters for this purpose. See the Tiffen site for examples. __________________ Lady X Films: A lady with a boring wardrobe...and a global mission. Hey, you don't have enough stuff! Buy with confidence from our sponsors. Hand-picked as the best in the business...Really! See some of my work one frame at a time: www.KenTanaka.com

November 24th, 2003, 01:47 PM	#294
Rob Lohman RED Code Chef Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Holland Posts: 12,514	Ofcourse you can also soften an image by turning down the sharpness in the camera or do it in post (longer rendering times, but perhaps more control). __________________ Rob Lohman, visuar@iname.com DV Info Wrangler & RED Code Chef Join the DV Challenge \| Lady X Search DVinfo.net for quick answers \| Buy from the best: DVinfo.net sponsors

November 24th, 2003, 02:00 PM	#295
Boyd Ostroff Wrangler Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Mays Landing, NJ Posts: 11,787	What NLE are you using? If it's Final Cut Pro then have a look at Joe's Diffuser. It really gives you a lot of control and can produce some very nice effects. It's true that you will have to do rendering, but the problem with physical filters is that it can be very difficult to see what they're doing on location unless you're using a good monitor. The viewfinder and flip-out LCD aren't high enough resolution to really show that kind of detail. And if you don't like the effect, you're out of luck. That's why I personally prefer doing this sort of thing in post.

December 7th, 2003, 08:36 PM	#296
Devin Doyle Regular Crew Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 188	GL1 LCD Self Destructs I was a strong believer in Canon quality for the longest, despite reading about the problems that some people had with their GL2's/GL1's. Then my friend's GL1 failed to playback tapes correctly. Eventually he replaced it with a GL2 that also had to be sent into Canon's repair factory twice for similar problems. Then just last week my LCD screen quit working on my GL1 (unless you flip it all the way to "portrait mode" which is when the LCD faces the lens - which is of little use unless you're cheesin'). The reason for this? I have no idea. I've taken care of my camera like it was my own child. It always resides right side up in my dry kata bag when not in use, and is never lent out to anyone. So, my point in this thread is to ask: has anyone else had this problem? __________________ http://devin.par-t-com.net

December 8th, 2003, 04:40 AM	#297
Don Palomaki Wrangler Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Northern VA Posts: 4,487	Sounds like an issue with the two ribbon cables that connect the LCD to the rest of the camcorder. Pivoting stresses the cables, may have loosened one of the connectors. Your freind's problem sounds a bit like his video life is star-crossed. One or two problem could be mgfr. defects, but three times implies his use of the gear is unusually severe. __________________ dpalomaki@dspalomaki.com

December 8th, 2003, 08:14 AM	#298
Devin Doyle Regular Crew Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 188	I figured it was only a loose connection. Unfortunately I'm now at the mercy of canon repair. My friend did treat his equipment well, but he did lend it out to some fellow students - that's the catch 22. I figured it got man-handled out in the field. Anyways, thanks for the post! __________________ http://devin.par-t-com.net

December 18th, 2003, 07:43 AM	#299
John McCauley Tourist Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 2	GL1 purple color shift in blue hot spots We have a GL1 on permanant loan which I've been using to tape our dance company, so I'm using it only in theaters with theater lighting. There was one particuar lighting setting we used recently that caused what I would cause a bizarre color shift. In summary blue areas shifted to purple as the blue intensity increased to overexposure. I'm gained up 9db and shooting nearly wide open. As you know there is huge dynamic range in theaters so where the footers hit the white cyc there is an overexposed hot-spot. The Let's go to the examples: 1) The reference, a far shot from a PD150 http://homepage.mac.com/bowenmccauleydance/farpd150.jpg 2) The same shot from the GL1 http://homepage.mac.com/bowenmccauleydance/fargl1.jpg 3) A close-in from the GL1 shot earlier that day http://homepage.mac.com/bowenmccauleydance/closegl1.jpg 4) A close-in from the PD150 http://homepage.mac.com/bowenmccauleydance/closepd150.jpg Those purple spots should be overexposed whites. All settings in the GL1 for color shift are default (no CP in the viewfinder). Unfortunately, I can't easily set up tests to see if the color shifter will help as these theaters are not readily available. But it doesn't seem to me that the color shift adjust has a huge latitude. So my questions is dose this GL1 look normal or at least "yeah, funky, but GL1's do that?" I probably need a VX2000 but hate to give back this freebie GL1. __________________ JM

December 18th, 2003, 12:37 PM	#300
Tom Voigt Regular Crew Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 92	It's Mainly an Overall Color Shift I shoot dance and theater with a GL-2 and sometimes additional Optura Pi's, so your shots sure did look familiar! I think the shots will match up fairly well once you do color correction. Notice that not only the blue cyc but also the skin tones are dramatically different - warm and golden in the GL-1. Using the 3 color wheels in Vegas, my own "Warm Corrector" preset is 310 degrees with setting with darks at .150, midtones at .300 and brights at .600. Try applying this to the GL-1 footage. The GL-2 (and the GL-1 as well) seems to run quite red. Try rolling down towards Green on the custom preset by one or two notches. Also try using the tungsten white balance rather than automatic white balance or setting the white balance. Hope this helps. -Tom-