View Full Version : Homemade 35mm Adapter


Pages : 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 [18] 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32

Alain Dumais
January 25th, 2004, 10:54 PM
Here is some image I have juste shot.

http://www.kheops-tech.com/~ad3d/film test.wmv

and here is the engine

http://www.kheops-tech.com/~ad3d/IMG_2110.jpg

John Gaspain
January 25th, 2004, 11:05 PM
Ok Alain I'll bite, What did you use for a GG? The footage looks great! Good DOF

john

Imran Zaidi
January 25th, 2004, 11:07 PM
Alain, this looks very interesting. Can you identify the parts you've used to make your 'engine'? Is that a slide viewer in there?

Agus Casse
January 25th, 2004, 11:25 PM
Wow, i am amazed, seens like there is almost no grain...

So, tell us the big secret.. how did you built it ??

Taylor Moore
January 25th, 2004, 11:40 PM
Amazing Alain...very excited about the process of your device..
My problem is I have a DVX and it lens is 72mm so a rig like this might be a problem to get to work...or not.

Dino Reyes
January 26th, 2004, 12:05 AM
Very slick and simple setup. It looks, possibly, like a close-up lens attached to the camera lens with a round GG [i venture to say a real piece of glass which would account of the almost perfect shot] of somekind sandwiched between another piece of tubing connected to the master lens.

sweet!
D

Bob Hart
January 26th, 2004, 04:10 AM
A bit of practical advice when using the Agus. Make a white card to take with you, plain on one side for setting white-balance, with a circular target on the other and inside that, a safe frame, which you have determined will give you a full frame on an underscanned image.

Practice - Prior to your shot, go wide angle to bring in the vignette. Frame the vignette on the circular target, then zoom in until the "safe frame" fills your viewfinder frame. I found out the hard way.

A stills cameraman for one of the newspapers wandered across to look at the Agus whilst I shot the R & B performance yesterday. I took the thing apart for him and fitted it back - wrong move. I forgot to reset the safe frame on the camcorder in my haste to get the piece I was waiting for which came up sooner than I thought.

Richard Mellor
January 26th, 2004, 04:20 AM
alain the shots were great It looks just like film .
I have made the "agus35" could you tell us how to make
the "alain35"

Dietmar Zonewicz
January 26th, 2004, 04:31 AM
@Alain, your shot is really amazing, tell us more about your setup.


I found this manual how to make your own groundglass, just have a look at http://www.phototechmag.com/previous-articles/2003/mj-dokas/dokas.html

Brett Erskine
January 26th, 2004, 06:23 AM
I would like to share some of my links with everyone. While some will help you solve some of the problems out there others may only serve as a steping stone to a final solution.


GROUND GLASS and ALTERNATVES

(Bosscreens Grainless Glass)
http://www.bromwellmarketing.com/boards.htm

(Prices for Bosscreens)
http://www.bromwellmarketing.com/prices/lenses.htm

(Ground Glass Substitutes)
http://lists.kjsl.com/pipermail/acg/2003-October/000639.html

(Bosscreens)
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.schoon.de/bosscreen/bosscreen.htm&prev=/search%3Fq%3DBosscreen%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8%26sa%3DG

(Edmunds Optics - Different Types of Ground Glass)
http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/Browse.cfm?catid=453





DIAOPTERS, MACROS, ACHROMATS and APOCHROMATS

(Tech Spec™ Achromatic Lenses)
http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=1749

(Tech Spec™ Diffraction Limited Large Achromats)
http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=1501

(Commercial Quality Positive Achromatic Lenses)
http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=2401

(Century Optics Diopters)
http://www.centuryoptics.com/products/broadcast/achromatic_diopters/

(OptoSigma Percision Optics and Hardware)
http://www.optosigma.com/miva/merchant.mv

(Cheap/Professional Grade Achromat, doublet, triplet, prisms, etc.)
http://www.surplusshed.com/search.cfm





PRISMS and IMAGE FLIPABLE LCD's

(Tech Spec™ Schmidt Prisms)
http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?Productid=2430

(Technically Explaination of Different Types of Prisms)
http://www.tecplusplus.de/ManualLu/prisms.htm

(Technically Explaination of Different Types of Prisms - Website 2)
http://topcontechnotes.home.att.net/viewingsystem/page8.html

(OptoSigma Percision Optics and Hardware)
http://www.optosigma.com/miva/merchant.mv

(Dove Prism)
http://www.doveprism.com/

(Cheap/Professional Grade Achromat, doublet, triplet, prisms, etc.)
http://www.surplusshed.com/search.cfm






OTHER

(Flange Focal Distance Table)
http://www.gregssandbox.com/gtech/filmfacts/flange.htm

(C-Mount Fine Thread Focus Tube)
http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=1678

(MovieTube - Commercial contender to P+S Technik Mini35)
http://www.movietube.com/

(Mesmerizier - Rear lens mounted anamorphic optical system)
http://www.kishoptics.com/mesmerizer-mini.html

(Relay Lens Manuel Iris)
http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?productid=1966

(Aspherically Contoured Fresnel Lenses)
http://www.edmundoptics.com/IOD/DisplayProduct.cfm?Productid=2039



Brett Erskine
Director of Photography
Premiere Visions
1761 W. La Palma Ave., Suite #302
Anaheim, CA 92801
www.CinematographerReels.com
BErskine@CinematographerReels.com

Alain Dumais
January 26th, 2004, 08:45 AM
The very first thing that I have try are a piece of Roscolux filter
and thid thing are close, but not perfect.

Then I try to find the perfect GG.I found some ,very very expensive and not good enought.Then I talk to a guy's at a telescope store and he tell me how to make a GG for $12 but lot of patience, in fact it's about 5 to 7 hour of grinding ;-(

As you can see on the photo there is 3 grade of alluminium oxyde
120,300,500 the bigger the number the smaller the grain,the smaller one are like flour. The goal is to have a gain that is smaller than the ccd can see.

The fist lens are from a optex 7X magnifier,there is 2 lens in there ,I use only 1 that I have glue on a uv filter ring,so I have my adaptor.

For the GG I have buy some uv filter (used one $2 whit scratch) so I have the good shape to start and for the same price the adaptor. Unmount the glass and grind it ,and grind ,and gind.................................................................................
then put it back in the ring and that's it

for the prototipe I use glue gun so I can unmount easily.

One thing that is really important is ,if you are grinding whit grade 300 then never never drop one grain of 120 grain ,otherwise your gone have to come back and start over again.

and by the way I prefer Aldu35 :-)

here is the photo

http://www.kheops-tech.com/~ad3d/parts.jpg

http://www.kheops-tech.com/~ad3d/parts2.jpg

Hope it's clear, fell free for any question.
Alain

Richard Mellor
January 26th, 2004, 08:54 AM
Alain -

Thank you so much for your complete instructions on how to build this wonderful device. As soon as I get home from work this evening, I'll begin work on the "Aldu35". I like "Aldu35" better anyway.

Alain Dumais
January 26th, 2004, 09:11 AM
Another thing is when buying uv filter to make the gg ,there is someof those that are more difficult to unmount maybe impossile, they look like they are are mold whit the ring.The one I use are whit a thin metal ring, that keep the glass in place.

Filip Kovcin
January 26th, 2004, 09:43 AM
just kind of (i hope) nice joke:

aldu35 = I'll do35 :)


filip

Frank Ladner
January 26th, 2004, 09:54 AM
Here is a place to order some 600 grit Aluminum Oxide for 10.50 / bottle (4 OZ).

http://www.sisweb.com/ms/sis/alumoxid.htm


Indeed, achieving a fine grain on a UV filter seems like the way to go, as there is no need for constant motion, and the thing already fits into place. Excellent, Alain!

Bob Hart
January 26th, 2004, 09:58 AM
Alain.

A cheap and unprofessional trick you can use when dressing your groundglass with the aluminium oxide 500. Don't throw out the used powder which is becoming a bit blunt, but wear it down more with a piece of scrap glass. - as you mentioned, keep everything absolutely free of other larger bits of grit.

When the oxide pwoder is worn down, try another clean piece of glass on it. Keep the pressure light and do a lot of rubbing. You'll get an even finer texture. Microscope slides are a satisfactory glass if you dont mind rectangular.

Using that UV filter was a clever idea.

Clear round glass disks (not the plastic ones) from welding suppliers for oxy goggle replacements might also be good for making small groundglasses.

Agus Casse
January 26th, 2004, 11:39 AM
Wow !! pretty amazing...

Could you perform, more test, to see if there is actually any grain ? So if you built a Agus35 with a glass cd, gritted with alluminiun oxide, and the discs spins a little there will be no trouble at all.

Noah Posnick
January 26th, 2004, 12:49 PM
Can someone please describe this 5-7 hour grinding process in detail? Also what kind of store would carry various grades of aluminum oxide? or is the only place to order it online?

Frank Ladner
January 26th, 2004, 01:13 PM
Noah, I'm in the same boat. (Ha ha!)

I have been calling local stores here such as hardware suppliers, hobby shops, and camera stores and nobody has the stuff. The closest thing was some 200 something grit at a hardware store.

It looks as though online is my only option.

As far as the process, you can do a search at Google and find all sorts of results. The average process is this:

- Lay down a large piece of glass.
- Mix a spoonfull of aluminum oxide with a bit of water
(enough to give a paste-like consistency)
- Take your smaller glass-to-be-ground and cover one side with
masking tape (for protection and better grip)
- Now rub the smaller glass over the paste, which is spread on
the bigger glass.
- The rubbing is done in circular motions, adding water as it
gets tougher to rub.


That seems to be about it. I've never done this, but I offer this summary of all the pages I have looked at over these last two days.

Hope this helps.

,Frank

Alain Dumais
January 26th, 2004, 01:25 PM
Agus


Here is another shot.

http://www.kheops-tech.com/~ad3d/test2.wmv

There is no grain. I don't see a reason why to spin the glass.
And the design is pretty easy.
The only thing here is that the image are compress and a bit wash out ,What come out of my Video camera is better.

But if you have any specific test that I can do just ask me and I will try it.

Alain

Alain Dumais
January 26th, 2004, 01:28 PM
Noah

I found the alluminium oxyde in a Telescope store, People use this to make mirror.

Alain

Jim Lafferty
January 26th, 2004, 01:38 PM
Alain -- great work. I've got server space to offer for images and footage, if you need either.

email me here: jim@ideaspora.net

You may attach the images as you like.

- jim

Frank Ladner
January 26th, 2004, 01:39 PM
Alain: How many lines are you resolving compared to footage without the adapter? ie. Is the resolution acceptable?

I would really like to look at an uncompressed still frame. Do you have any resolution test charts you could shoot?

The footage is looking good!


Thanks!

Kevin Burnfield
January 26th, 2004, 01:44 PM
Alain, if I read this right... and I might not be... you are using the ring from a UV filter to connect this to your camera?

Sorry but I've tried to read back and my brain just can't hold it all in... :)

an explanation of how it connects and even a pic of it connected would be great.

Thanks and great work. I'm stunned at the level of work and genius in these threads.

Dmitri Henry
January 26th, 2004, 02:04 PM
Wow alain static sure is the way to go. Couple things in this picture http://www.kheops-tech.com/~ad3d/IMG_2110.jpg
it looks like your uv filter is connected to some other irregular shaped box can you tell us what that is? Also in this photo http://www.kheops-tech.com/~ad3d/parts2.jpg what is the piece you are holding at the bottom left? Last thing i heard a lot of people use fresnel lenses to concentrate the incoming light on the gg do you use that too? Wow whoaw Agus, Alain and everyone else thanks a lot.

Agus Casse
January 26th, 2004, 02:08 PM
I think we could open a new thread for this static solution, which is now really working... !

Filip Kovcin
January 26th, 2004, 02:49 PM
<<<-- Originally posted by Agus Casse : I think we could open a new thread for this static solution, which is now really working... ! -->>>

let's give the privilege to alain to open the new thread - "alain's static solution... or aldu35..." or whatever he thinks is ok.

what do you think?

filip

Kevin Burnfield
January 26th, 2004, 03:08 PM
YES... I'll second that new thread which will give it a specific place and if there are any other versions to pursue they can remain in here or start their own thread when ready.

John Gaspain
January 26th, 2004, 04:47 PM
do you think this could work with a 16mm Angenieux lens? like this...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2977963748&category=30077

Alain Dumais
January 26th, 2004, 06:10 PM
Lot of pressure on me now. Maybe I should run away.

Ok I will read all this now and try to answer all.

As you probably understand already I am french Canadien
so I sometime need a dictionnary and it take long for me to answer. :-)

Ps: Now what we should do is to start a thread against War and misery around the world and try to find a solution all togeter :-)


Alain Dumais

Ryan Henry
January 26th, 2004, 06:14 PM
Yes and no.

It would project an image on the ground glass. The image would be about a quarter the size of the 35mm frame, meaning you would have to zoom in much closer (which will create distortion problems) and have problems with graim on the GG.

Also, the DOF of 16mm format lenses is much deeper. The point of this project is to get a shallow DOF. To get a decent 35mm-like DOF you would have to zoom to at least 80mm which means standing WAY back from your subject.

One final thing: DO NOT spend $400+ on a lense for this project. I have the same Angenieux lense on one of my 16mm cameras and it is *wonderful*, but definately overkill for use with a video camera. Start of with something close to 50mm and as cheap as possible.

Paul Doss
January 26th, 2004, 07:11 PM
< Ps: Now what we should do is to start a thread against War and misery around the world and try to find a solution all togeter :-)

Alain Dumais >

Your (and everyone else's) best chance of making a difference in the world is through your video. Video that is looking better and better, more like what the general public will readily accept.

Paul
dvdof.com

Bob Hart
January 26th, 2004, 08:05 PM
Re:Angenieux.

I second Ryan. As I found out the hard way, the image off the 16mm format Angenieuxs is barely big enough to cover Super16 frame without cropping corners on zoom-through 25-35mm focal length. Good lens but wrong application in this project.

Re: Fixed Groundglass.

The image files agusday2.jpg and agusday3.jpg at www.dvinfo.net/media/hart were originated from a fixed groundglass (microscope slide) prepared with 300 grade aluminium oxide powder. In the centre hotspot of bright image, there is no grain but in low lit corners there is visible grain. If there is any grain to be seen, setting the SLR lens to as small an aperture as you can will make any grain visible.

Bob Hart
January 27th, 2004, 09:47 AM
Brainpick time. For the first time I have recorded without inverting the camera. (My ego won out over common sense as I did not want to be asked constantly why I was working the camera upside down.

Inverting the image in post seems to have made some problems, probably related to interlace. I've tried de-interlacing but it does not seems to have made any difference.

The .avi playback is fine but DVD-Video is dreadful, with jittering.

OS is Windows 98SE. NLE is Adobe Premiere 6.1. The computer (Pentium 1.6Ghz, plenty of hard drive space, 520Mb DDR) has been fine in all ways except for now.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Ryan Graham
January 27th, 2004, 11:26 AM
Bob,

You have reversed the field order by flipping it upside down. DV is lower field first, and now you're going upper field first. One way to solve the problem is to nudge the footage up or down one pixel to get the lower field in the right place. I'm not 100% sure how else to fix it in Premiere; I know in After Effects you can just tell it to interpret the footage upper field first and then render it out lower field. I'm sure there's good instructions in the "help" file of Premiere, though.

Good luck,
Ryan Graham

John Gaspain
January 27th, 2004, 01:35 PM
I use Vegas, it allows you to choose which field first. I never understood why the option was there, I guess It could be for this type of scenerio

Jim Lafferty
January 27th, 2004, 02:07 PM
Field Order allows you to make your own progressive images, as well, by combining fields. I'm fairly certain there are other reasons that field order is offered as an option, but off the top of my head I can't tell you what they are.

Check out these images to point out what I mean about combining upper and lower-field renders, the results are quite good:

http://ideaspora.net/progressive

"Manual De-Interlaced" is a three-step process -- render two copies of the same file with the filed orders set to Upper and Lower, then place them in sync on your timeline, one above the other at 50% opacity, and render that out as a progresive file.

- jim

Chris Hurd
January 27th, 2004, 02:10 PM
Sorry for the delay -- the latest from Bob Hart:

Attached are two .pdf files and two .jpg images. The .pdf files are a rough
and ready how-to for an adaptor for the Century Optics 16:9 with PD150
bayonet mount to 52mm front filter thread 25mm still-camera lens, in this
case the Micro Nikkor 55mm. The two .jpg images are an image of the finished
Agus35 Australian Plumber's Version complete with blue hammertone paint to
make it go faster and a sunset image with the 55mm lens."

Subject: Re: Agus35-PD150

www.dvinfo.net/media/hart/agus3516.pdf

www.dvinfo.net/media/hart/agus3516b.pdf

www.dvinfo.net/media/hart/Aguscam.jpg

www.dvinfo.net/media/hart/agus730p.JPG

Brett Erskine
January 27th, 2004, 11:53 PM
Heres a test chart for the optical quality of all of our mini35 designs. Any promising designs should be put to this test to know for sure that its working as well as it can.

It tests for:
1)chroma aberration
2)barrel distortion
3)how much grain is apparent from the ground glass

How does it work?

Step 1: Print out the picture of the test chart on high quality glossy photo paper at 300dpi. You'll find a link at:
http://www.cinematographerreels.com/mini35info.htm

Step 2: Measure the image after it prints out. It should measure 24mm x 18mm.

Step 3: Videotape the image with only the diopter lens your using in front of your camera (diopters are also known as macros, closeup filters, achromats and apochromats) and make sure its in focus and that you are filling the viewfinder edge to edge with the image.

Step 4: Post a frame grab from your video here at full resolution (720x480). If you have straight lines in your frame grab and no color blurring then your mini35 system has pasted the test.

Now if you want to check for how much grain can be seen in your ground glass repeat the first 4 steps with your mini35 system put all together including your 35mm lens.

These tests will check, with precision, everything but resolution. You'll need to shoot a professional resolution chart for that. Post that too if you have frame grabs.

Link to mini35 test chart:
http://www.cinematographerreels.com/mini35info.htm

Brett Erskine
Director of Photography
Premiere Visions
1761 W. La Palma Ave., Suite #302
Anaheim, CA 92801
www.CinematographerReels.com
BErskine@CinematographerReels.com

Rob Lohman
January 28th, 2004, 04:03 AM
I can't help to have the feeling that the picture at that small a
size and compressed with JPEG is perhaps not going be a good
comparison between the camera's. I would take a larger resolution
one and give it in an uncompressed format. Does this only work
for people with colo(u)r printers?

Bob Hart
January 28th, 2004, 05:13 AM
Many thanks Ryan, John and Jim. I'll have a try at those solutions.

I did some massage on the clip with Premiere's version of de-interlace and it seems to have helped. Another complication has been a slight intensity strobing effect somewhat like a telecine not quite in sync.

With the clip filmlooked and contrast cranked up, the intense phases which have a period of about 3 seconds seemed to arravate the jitter. It looked fine on DVD software playback, just the TV itself did not like it.

The intensity variation is a result of a groundglass CD which has aquired some less opaque spots due to frequent handling. The glass disks should hopefully fix this.

The music video doesn't look all that great. One needs to pay a lot more attention to focussing and a larger screen is a necessity. The natural backlight was very strong and spill in the groundglass was aggavated. Due to impact on the amenity of the live performance I could not use any more than 1000w of bounced light.

The best Agus35 images so far have been in later PM or early AM light. The music clip lighting was a severe test and shows that more work is yet needed.

Brett Erskine
January 28th, 2004, 02:24 PM
The test chart above is at 300dpi and prints out at the proper size of 24x18. As far as a uncompressed image I can assure you that there was no difference in quality between the uncompressed .tif file and the .jpg Im sharing here. In fact I looked at the image at 1000% to make sure. Its the same. Besides this isnt a resolution chart. It simply important that it prints out the right size and the grid lines are all straight.

Brett Erskine
Director of Photography
Premiere Visions
1761 W. La Palma Ave., Suite #302
Anaheim, CA 92801
www.CinematographerReels.com
BErskine@CinematographerReels.com

Filip Kovcin
January 30th, 2004, 01:34 PM
i'm looking for anyone who has build agus 35 for dvx100 panasonic camera (or 72mm diameter lens). just want to know more about it. i did make 3 prototypes for 52mm and 58 mm diameter lenses and there are ok. but it looks, like 72mm is very difficult with that cd GG diameter.

any thougths?

thanks,

filip

Bob Hart
January 31st, 2004, 08:00 PM
To Brett.

(REVISED TEST IN THESE BRACKETS - Brett. I have not been able to send any messages or images to your email. The error message says the mailbox is full.)

Thanks for the miniature test pattern. I had to manually resize the image a few times in Canon BJC7100 printer preview but got it down to 24mm x 18mm. At that size it's got a few ink hairs on it but serves the purpose.

As I have previously mentioned, the telescope eyepiece lens-set in my homemade nightvision adaptor only just frames correctly on a 1.85:1 35mm projector gate without vignetting.

I found following tests with your life size chart that by closer coupling of the lens to the PD150 and reversal of the composite element of the lens, I could just frame the test pattern.

During this process I discovered a possible cause of some other problems I have had.

In the process of more thoroughly blacking out the interior of the Agus enclosure, I had re-installed the disk motor mount out of position by 5mm. This did not affect ability to backfocus the prime lens or focus on the disk but did reduce the image frame to just 15mm across which I did not pick up - the reason why definition fell through the floor on my music shoot the other day.

So thanks for the prompt. I was chasing other dead ends.

I'll re-build the adaptor and post a revised design and test images here if possible per favore of Chris.

Taylor Moore
January 31st, 2004, 08:04 PM
Filip,
There has been alittle headway on the DVX check here latest posts:

http://www.dvxuser.com/cgi-bin/DVX/YaBB.cgi?board=news;action=display;num=1070228577;start=0

Brett Erskine
February 1st, 2004, 02:02 AM
Old junk email address. Sorry about that. You or anyone else that has any questions can send me email at:

BErskine@CinematographerReels.com

Chris Hurd
February 2nd, 2004, 08:52 AM
Hey Bob, keep sending images and I'll keep uploading -- that goes for anybody who has pics but no server space -- I'm more than happy to put 'em on dvinfo.net. Hope this helps,

Bob Hart
February 3rd, 2004, 07:44 AM
Many thanks Chris. I have more on the way, the same set I was attempting to send to Brett.

The images when they arrive will be as follows :-

Sockimg2.jpg -- A "how-not" to use your Agus35.

Faults are soft image, background burnout due to thick cumulus clouds and blue bias which had to be subsequently graded out, severe vignetting into TV safe area due to operator distraction of explaining the Agus35 principle to a stills newscameraman who was also using Nikon. I had dismounted the Agus35 to enable the innards to be examined, remounted it and forget to reset the zoom.

Filmb&a.jpg -- a before and after demo of the filmlook process applied to Agus35-PD150P origination.

This filmlook process is the same process which is explained by two articles reproduced here at dvinfo.net. Zoom in close on the images and you will see the interlace artifacts produced by a CD which is not running true.

TEST2.2C.jpg -- This is a comparison of a home-made frosted CD, one frame with disk staionary, the other with disk spinning.

Testreq4.jpg -- This is a frame grab of Brett's test pattern before I re-adjusted the position of the groundglass disk which had become misplaced due to furthur work and reassembly.

Testreq5.jpg -- This is a frame grab of the PD150 view of the groundglass CD disk to show texture and all of the defects which are many. Until I am finished breaking the appliance open and tinkering this disk will remain is it is prone to damage from handling.

Testreq6.jpg -- This is a frame grab of the PD150 view of the microscope slide which was given the aluminium oxide treatment.

There is a finer grade of aluminium oxide which I am currently trying to get my hands on. I am also awaiting a piece of optical glass Ohara of Japan are kindly sending to me to test the aluminium oxide on.

If this test is okay I will be buying myself some 1.3mm thickness CD sized disks complete with 15mm centre hole to apply the groundglass finish to. If anyone else is interested in buying disks from Ohara please let your interest be known here.

My own tests with the Agus35 so far hint that whilst it is a handy facility for the video enthusiast, as a serious videographer's tool it has a way to go yet.

The SW5042 42mm 50mm (2 inch)telescope eyepiece in its unmarked box is apparently a Tasco accessory. The lens set extracted from this appliance enables close coupling of the Agus35 to the PD150 but does not yield an image which I would regard as meeting the professional standards otherwise obtainable from this camcorder.

Chris Hurd
February 3rd, 2004, 11:23 AM
Bob's images noted above are now up... see his directory at www.dvinfo.net/media/hart.

Mike Tesh
February 3rd, 2004, 10:12 PM
Here are my images:

http://www.visionengine.com/galleria/thumbnails.php?album=1

Still not done. Have many things to add including a top handle, condenser lens, nice paint job, LCD mounted on the top coming off the side, 1/4 inch tripod nut, ect.